Grease your drive shaft you lazy sods.

The two types of grease laid out in the FSM:
Lithium base chassis grease, NLGI No.2
and
Molybdenum-disulfide lithium base chassis grease, NLGI No.2

Is it necessary to use the two different types? Can I pick one of the two types and use it for both parts of the driveshaft?

And is there a preferred grease that you're using?

Thanks!

 

You can use the moly based on everything. It just cost a bit more.

 

Thank you!

 

Here's the stuff I'd recommend, Valvoline VV985. It's a little more pricey if you buy on scAmazon, I get it cheaper at the LAPS.

$14 Valvoline Moly-Fortified Gray Full Synthetic Grease 14.1 OZ Cartridge

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CQ4DK0

 

I successfully lubricated my drivetrain today. It's pretty easy.
Bought a grease gun from HF and some of the Valvoline grease recommended above.

I had to grind down the tip of the gun a la:

but that worked like a charm.

When I jacked my truck up, I put it in neutral, put the e-brake on, and the rear prop shaft wouldn't spin.
The front one would, but not the rear. It ended up that all my zerks were facing up, which made it a little more challenging but not too bad.

I'm sure I'm missing something simple - anyone have any insight?

 

If the e-brake is on, i.e. the wheels can't spin, why would turning the driveshaft do anything? Turning the driveshaft engages gears in your rear diff, to spin the wheels, but ... the wheels have brake applied, right?

(or maybe I'm too many beers in)

The front driveshaft spins because 4WD is disengaged with the truck off, IIRC. Did you try spinning them with the e-brake OFF?

And for the hard to get zerks, I usually recommend getting one of these on scAmazon or similar, like the 2nd fitting shown here:

​

 

@shifty` Did you ever try using that right angle fitting? I’m curious if it really fits before I run down to O’reillys and pick one up. Specifically the Lincoln one.

 

If you were nearby, I'd let you borrow mine to try.

It was a freaking godsend with a couple of zerks after I bagged and notched my '68 pickup. But I felt like there was a little bit of a learning curve. It's not like you just slide it onto the zerk and pump away, there's a little finesse in how you angle it on and off so you don't get blow-by. But on fittings you can't load up with a conventional straight fitting, it does the job.

The only thing I think could possibly be better - but I've never owned one - are the flexible ones that you lock onto the zerk. Last time I checked, they were running $30/ea and I wasn't spending that. Now that scAmazon is quietly hiring warehouses in China to steal everyone's designs and resell on their storefront at bargain pricing, I'm guessing I can probably find one much cheaper today.

 

Sounds like it might be easier with the lincoln straight fitting with part of it grinded away (PHM method). I need a full lock-on to get any power to push through the old grease. The needle fitting wasn't working well since you need to be at the exact right angle to avoid blow-by.

 

The side-load ones will give you everything you need to get it right. It's hard to explain. But they do work. Just sucks having to swap out the tips with greasy hands.

 

Got a pic of this thin 'flexible' $30 one or it's exact name so I can look it up? I'd like to use two hands to apply as much power to the grease gun as possible (bear hug approach) without worrying about the angle of the fitting to avoid blow-by.

 

No, and I'm having a hell of a time finding it. I originally saw it at HF. Maybe it was a failed product that got pulled?

However, if you need tight fit and locking, you may want to look into the LockNLube 90° grease coupler

 

I have a really cool coupler I bought for my grease gun that literally grabs the zerk and "pulls it in" to grease without you having to apply constant pressure. Also frees up that other hand to pump if you've got one of them old fashioned guns (like me) that isn't battery or air operated.

 

Yup, this is basically a ripoff of LockNLube's concept. Most of Saker's tools are just that - ripoffs of other name brands, mass-produced in China. Funny, the first two results I get for 'saker tools' online point to scAmazon, then WallyMart, which have essentially cemented themselves as the US iterations of Alibaba.

Sadly, LockNLube is made in USA. Ordering bullshit intellectual ripoffs like what Saker is putting out there helps put another nail in the coffin for domestic manufacturing. Not knocking you by any means, I'm just disappointed stuff like this is even legal.

​

 

for what its worth, I have a "half size" grease gun with a small tip and I'm able to reach all of my 4WD zerks.

NO PUN INTENDED

 

So… After reading all of these 109 posts, confusion reins up in here…
Maybe I’m too old or dense or, what?
Abbreviations always kill me, there are many in here…
But here’s my take always…
1.) just do it, ok Yall have convinced me so I will… BUT?
2.) my 2002 AC does not have zerk fittings, right? So, replacing all of the drive line u joints is the only option? Yikes?
3.) I’ve heard one should not mix different grease compounds?
The suggested Valvoline Moly is ok to use right? But, not knowing what is already in there? Like, will it also work for the front end and other chassis fittings?

My main reason I ask is I need to do the wheel bearings on our 17 foot rv, and it would be nice to only have to get one style, or is that a “no way, you need one different one for each application” kinda purchase…
But, I don’t know what is in them already, so, red, brown, blue, lithium, no clue! It’s been suggested to remove, clean, and manually repack them, even though they have the “buddy brake” quick fill caps on them…?
GAWD, so many rabbit holes, lol!!!

OHH And, by the way, can I get by with the mini gun and mini cartridges or just go full size at the bay freight place?
Can one pull a partially full tube out and switch to a different flavor with out sacrificing the first tube? Maybe reuse it again later?

Great thread by the way, very informative!!! Thx for all the help!!!
Y’all b a roc’n!!!

 

Yes u can switch. Just pump the old grease out after u insert new cartridge. Should be ablr to clearly see difference in grease composition. Its messy pulling out partially filled cartridge obviously.

 

If you have a 2wd then no, you don't have any grease zerks. So you're good to go.

 

But as a 2WD owner, he does need to be concerned about the transmission crossmember cracking and/or its 4 bolts backing out...

 

Thats the service bulletin right? Do you know if the bolts are available at a big box store, or only from oem? Like what are the specs, say 6mm x 1.25, etc…

also, is there a good way to lube up the slip joint, or do I not have one for in the rwd ac cab?? (Because I’m old and phatt, it’s very difficult for me to get on the ground!)

 

I don't know how you'd lube the slip yoke. I don't think it's a serviceable part.

RE: 2WD clunks ... it may not be related to your year, I swore it was '03-'04 or something. But check the 4th bullet point under the TSB section here for the TSB document: https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-...ught-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/#post-2980411

However, just because you're not listed in the TSB doesn't mean you shouldn't check the bolts. Other years have found bolts missing.

 

Is that two different types of grease?
Thanks

 

PHM got banned so won't be replying to your Q.

The grease linked in reply #94 above is sufficient for all of the above. It's lithium-based, 2.5% moly, and NLGI 2.

It just so happens the new (SPC) control arms I installed require lithium-based, 3% moly, and NLGI 2, so I recently stopped using the stuff in reply #94 and switched to the next step-up from there:

$15 Valvoline Palladium #2 3% Moly, Heavy Duty (HD) Grease 14.1 OZ Cartridge

Valvoline VV70112

NAPA carries both, I believe, and was one of the only LAPS I could find that had it in their inventory.

 

Thanks.. I get a "clunk" after stopping for a few seconds, the truck kinda jerks forward. I suspect driveshaft.. Gonna grease my zerks.

 

Yup, see if this looks familiar: https://www.tundras.com/threads/what-would-you-say-if-i-told-you.71827/

 

at first I thought someone rear ended me, ha! Ill grease em and update

 

whats laps?

 

Local Auto Parts Store

 

Ah thanks!

 

The dudes at the place I had my u bolts made and u joints replaced said the prefer the u joints with no grease cert. So I am guessing it's 6 of one half a dozen of the other.