What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Okay Ill check it out. Brake fluid is one job I hate doing…
Also cleaned the MAF sensor and changed the air filter.
new and old:

 

Yeah, I don’t know how it could get that dark for anyone. Hopefully it’s not purple since that would indicate they mixed dot 5 with you dot 3/4 brake fluid. Maybe if you have any earlier engine bay pics of the reservoir it would let you know if it was just getting that way with time.

 

Usually turns a dark greenish color over time with fluid absorption, and can definitely stain the reservoir. Never heard that about mixing Dot 5 with Dot 3/4 turning it purple. I’ll be sure not to do that! Although then it would match my diff fluids….

 

The shop that did the drums has a really good reputation in town. Is it possible to just bleed the rears and not the front? I put on icetech rotors and new pads a little prior to that and adjustedthe front rear bias as I spent a good deal of time descending mtn roads. I dont want to be losing braking power due to bad fluid. Might just change it…

 

Even if you just 'ranger method' (turkey baster) to refresh what's in the MC res you're probably doing yourself a favor. It's not like it's going to circulate fresh fluid to the caliper or anything, but it'll at least mix fresh fluid with some older. You can extend time between flushes with ranger, but it's no supplement to a proper bleed. I'm with everyone else, If it's that black, I'm skeptical, unless something's wrong causing your fluid to cook.

Found the RP user!

 

Dot 5 is actually purple to differentiate it from dot 3/4 since it’s silicone based. Mixing it might make it a little darker. I’m not sure how it would impact the brake system if it was designed for a glycol based fluid like dot 3/4.

 

Yeah I would change out the fluid in the reservoir and just do the rears if you don’t want to mess with the front brakes. Just verify they didn’t mix fluid first. I imagine dipping a piece of white paper to check the color would help.

edit: I was just reading that if they were mixed, it would gel so chances are that it’s just really dirty or they replaced all the fluid with dot 5. I’m thinking it’s just dirty.

There’s a small strainer in there you need to pull out with a small screwdriver or tweezers first to fill the whole reservoir.

 

Does this give any indication?

 

Oh yeah, that’s the green grease from the seals of the master cylinder contaminating the fluid. Time for a change!

 

I’ve got a speedy bleeder if you want to borrow it, makes life much easier

 

WTF, I've never seen green brake fluid before.

Never heard of this either.

 

Thatd be great, much appreciated . Im not sure when Ill get to this but Ill let you know.

 

haha I guess I got Slimer brake fluid

 

You have not seen my MC in the past. I brought this up to a Toyota tech who told me about the green grease thing.

 

Do it the easy way, 2 screws & a $40 tool.

DEPSTECH 5.0MP Endoscope, 8.5mm Type-C USB Borescope,Waterproof Inspection Camera with 16.5ft Cable and 6 Adjustable LED Snake Camera for Android, Windows/MacBook OS

DEPSTECH 5.0MP Endoscope, 8.5mm Type-C USB Borescope,Waterproof Inspection Camera with 16.5ft Cable and 6 Adjustable LED Snake Camera for Android, Windows/MacBook OS: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

 

That’s pretty neat but I can see the brake bleeder. I just can’t tell if I’ve applied too much heat to either boil the brake fluid or destroy a piston seal.

 

Never heard of the green grease thing. Think it’s due to water absorption and the metal brake lines. Creates a tarnish like when copper turns green.

 

No, no - I was replying to you attempting to see the timing belt. I think that's what you were saying you were trying to do.

 

180k was due mileage for a new timing belt.

 

Ahh, got it. That camera looks interesting though.

 

Is there copper though? I thought all our lines were steel only with that plastic/vinyl wrap protector to keep it from rusting.

 

Yeah, that's pretty bad, I think your rotors are infected. I think you need to sell me the truck now. I'll compensate you handsomely, $1,507.

 

Most brake lines are an alloy. They’ll have copper/nickel in them and be coated with steel. Easier to work with than pure stainless. Not sure what the tundra brake lines are made of, but look just like all the other hard brake lines I’ve worked with.

 

Did mine at 160K

 

Just fedcba, lol. But that’s a trick, they want you to admit you can’t do it sober. I was around .18 at the end and the officers were split on if I was legal.

 

Yes it does…

 

Thanks to @FrenchToasty, i did the ECGS needle bearing delete, new front diff seals, and 930 inner boots from Kartek on remaned Yota axles today. I stretched the outer boots as well to eliminate the bellows rubbing. Pretty happy with how it turned out. Rebooting the axles is something I’ve avoided for years but was actually really easy.

 

Is that a signature thing? I remember seeing a middle finger send off in a prior post.

Either that or Deja Vu.

 

It's a celebration of victory. Final gesture to the defeated