Crank no start

2001 tundra 4.7 driving down rd truck shut off changed fuel pump no power to pump no start on ether checked fuses changed relays still no start

 

The pump will not have power unless you’re cranking or running. Key on it is not energized immediately. Other than dying when you were driving, what made you decide it was fuel pump? CEL or codes pulled? Other symptoms?

 

Needmoreinfotohelpwithyourproblem

 

No codes couldn’t hear pump prime timing is good

 

Truck turns over and won’t crank?

 

Yes turns over gave it shot of ether still no start

 

Acts like pcm not fireing coil packs no rpm on crank either

 

The computers in the passenger footwell are common fails with water intrusion.

 

First off, what brand of fuel pump did you install?

Second, why did you replace your fuel pump, what symptoms caused you to do such a painful job?

Third, was the fuel pump the only thing you changed?

It's easy enough to test for spark on these trucks, did you?

Has *any* other maintenance been done recently?

Have you hooked a fuel pressure gauge up yet?

This video can walk you through some diagnostics, but to be clear: It contains some misinformation. It claims the fuel pump is running with the key in the ON position and that is 100% not accurate, per Toyota's own fuel circuit document.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VoerlgT8pck

 

It acted like it was a fuel prob the way it just died going down rd high pressure fuel pump tested pump before putting in it was original pump tried ether won’t hit

 

So, two things, after you confirm 100% if you have spark or not:

There are two temp sensors, side-by-side next to the throttle body on the V8 - one for the dash gauge, one for the ECM. Recently, a member found that his no-spark condition was caused by the ECM's temp gauge dying. Another member had issues after installing a non-OEM gauge, causing sketchy run/no-run conditions. If you find there's no spark, test the temp gauge(s). Check both with a multimeter.

If you had the timing belt done in the last 5k-15k miles, the wiring harness for the crank position sensor sometimes doesn't get routed correctly when the person changing it is buttoning things up. It'll get nicked and eventually severed by the serpentine belt. The fuel pump won't turn on if the crank position sensor is either dead, or that wire gets severed. It happens more often than you'd think. You should be able to check this easy enough.

There's a reason I asked all the questions I did. I'm trying to give you very specific path to follow on diagnostics. You replying with a one-sentence response doesn't help me help you.

 

I checked codes before I did anything no codes to explain problem never had any temp gauge problems checked crank sensor wire all good even took sensor out and cleaned I took pcm out and took cover off and couldn’t see any damage before it died while driving I had it a couple times where I had to cycle key to get it to start

 

As I said, temp gauge in your dash runs on a different sensor than the temp gauge for the ECU. If the latter is bad, it killed spark for another member. Check the ECU temp gauge.

Or better yet, run it in to a dealer. Give them the liberty to run up to 2hrs diagnostics. Chances are they can tell you what's run. Or get the Field Service Manual (link) and run through your own diagnostics. I don't think I'm gonna be able to help you here, not enough info provided.

 

Does your 2001 have a key fob? Or a fob'd key?

 

If you're going down the immobi route, it's only a thing with Double Cab trucks in the 1st gen.

And I don't think they started it until the VVTi trucks, but I'm not 100% positive on that last bit.

 

Seems like we're gonna need a "so your first gen won't start thread" at some point. Everything you said is exactly what I would have said too.

I'm thinking crank sensor (wiring or sensor) or the ECU temp probe though I think that's only caused issue for one person but still not impossible.

 

That's a tough one, though. There've been so many different causes for no-crank/no-start for folks visiting, everything from loose ground and corroded battery cables, to broken sensor, to short under the engine fuse/relay box, to bad relay. Makes it tough. This is really where the FSM comes in handy. It outlines the process flow of things to confirm 1st, before doing things like throwing a fuel pump at the problem. Nobody here can create a thread to compare to the FSM's "DI" section.

Thing is, even if someone were to write a thread like that, it's like pulling teeth sometimes to get people do do basic stuff: Pop a coil off to confirm spark, for example. If you know you don't have spark, then you need to run down the rabbit hole of things that would cause the engine not to sent fire signal to the coils. Or even asking to check for fuel pressure, maybe if you have no gauge but a can of ether, hit the intake with ether to see if you fire off, which could suggest lack of fuel supply.

I feel like a lot of people miss the basics: Fuel, air, spark. Well, with EFI engines it's metered fuel/air/spark, but you still need to confirm: Am I getting fuel? Am I getting spark? Is anything preventing metered air intake? Just ruling out two of those three items reduces your possible avenues of troubleshooting by 66.6%! It makes it way less of a punch-in-the-dark game, y'know?

With the way OP's engine died, suddenly on the road if I understood right, it suggests to me either electrical fail or catastrophic fail - like, electrically, a critical sensor failed so ECU won't allow the engine to run or maybe cable to a critical component was severed, or catastrophically, the timing belt snapped b/c it wasn't replaced within 10yr/100k miles (even though OEM is 9yr/90k, I think we can fudge that one 20-30k miles or more).

 

I think driver side cam jumped all marks lining up except drivers side cam sensor tone is at tic mark cam tic is at 3oclock I’m wander if there’s a chance it bent valve or Outher damage should I put a new belt on or junk motor

 

Sometimes people get lucky with no issues. Others don't. You'd just have to pull it apart and find out. Or use a borescope.

 

Did you do anything on the top-end prior to this which would've adjusted the timing? Cam seals? Timing belt, maybe? Water pump?

I'd start over to confirm timing, then compression test. Manually turn over, check for any difficulty in rotation.