Time to actually pick a size…

OK fellas. I’ve got my tires chosen, as well as wheels. I’m definitely going with Wildpeak ATW3, and Method 705. Shooting for a 35” flavor. but, do I go 17” or 18”?

a couple options…

285/75-18. Wheels would be 18x9 +25mm offset.

35x12.5-17.
315/70-17.
Either of these would be on 17x8.5 +35mm offset.

These options are all within 1/2” on height. Width varies between 11.3” wide to 12.7 wide. Tire/wheel combos are all between 95 and 100#. All Load range E.

It’s really an offset and wheel size difference.

My first inclination was to go with the 285/75-18, but they’re also about $400 more for the set (with wheels). Not a big deal, but worth considering. The 18’s are the lightest combo, but not by a lot…


Thoughts? Why?

 

In general I’d go 17” over 18” for less weight and better sidewalls. The 705 in 35mm is a good weight at 25lbs and ideal offset to minimize modifications needed if any. To me the point of 315/70r17 is to get a Load C or D to save weight/improve ride. Those Falkens are Load E only in that size and very heavy at 73lbs, I’d be more inclined to go with a lighter tire unless there was something very specific you wanted with that tire design. For example how Broncos/Raptors/TRX get decent gas mileage and performance still is they use the light weight Wrangler Territory tire at 55lbs in this size.

 

While the 17” wheel is lighter, the 17” tires are heavier.
The 285/75-18 with Method 705 combo is 95#.
Either 17” tire option on method 705 is closer to 100#.

yes, the 17” wheel is a few pounds lighter, but the tire more than offsets that saving.


I like the added sidewall on the 17”, but am mildly concerned about the extra width…

 

I think the higher weight in 17” vs 18” is associated to this particular tire. Most others the 315/70r17 size weighs less than the 18 equivalent (example: Duratracs). It looks like for this tire the two sizes are produced in different countries and have drastically different weights likely implying either bad weight info or a different design. 12.5” wide x 35” can be done on 50mm offset using stock suspension. An offset like 0mm would definitely require major adjustments, 35mm is similar to 50mm with no changes likely needed. 25mm at 11.5” would be good to go too.

 

Suspension is not a concern. I’ve got that all dialed with ADS 2.5” shocks and Deavers, as well as MCM UCAs. I’m fine with doing a BMC if needed…

This won’t be a drastic change if I go with the 285/75-18. My current setup is 275/65-20 with +30mm 20x9” KMC Outbreaks. I don’t come close to rubbing after replacing skid plate, mudflat rework, and pushing the fender liner forward a RCH.

If I go 17” wheels, I’ll be considerably wider on tires…. In my feeble mind, it makes sense that a fat tire with more sidewall might weigh more than a skinnier tire with a little lower profile.

 

I’m used to LR E tires, as my last two sets on this Tundra have been that rating. I do tow a couple trailers that have some decent weight to them, including our 25’ travel trailer. LR D would be ok, but I have no desire to drop to a C.

I’m also used to the crappy mileage! I’ve had my current 34” LR E tires for about 30k miles and it is what it is. I’d probably care more if I had to pay for fuel, but my employer pays for all of it. Perk of my job position…

 

I just checked weight on my current setup. 275/65-20 Cooper AT3 XLT is 61#. KMC XD847 Outbreak is heavy. Just shy of 37# per. Combo is 98#, which is right in the middle of every option I’m currently looking at.
Doubt I’m gonna see much performance loss with any of them, even at an inch taller.

 

One thing to note is you'll not be able to upgrade to the BBK should you want to in the future.

I hate that 17s are cheaper than 18s but I definitely see a BBK upgrade incoming for me.

 

The fact that the 18s are lighter and that you can still fit a bbk in there is what would make up my mind.

 

I think 18" is a good middle of the range.
20" is unnecessary big and not enough sidewall. 17" is good if you do serious off-road.
18" will perform good on-road and off-road.

 

That’s false…. Alcon makes a BBK kit that fits in a 17” wheel and it’s actually a front and rear kit.

 

I would do 17s and 35s

 

That's great news! How much bigger is it than the stock brakes?

 

Ah cool. Glad to know that it's an option.

 

Details here. The stopping power is insane by far the best mod done to the old man’s rig. I plan on doing only the front setup as my rig is lighter. His rig stops like a Porsche turbo it’s wild and defies physics



https://alconkits.com/products/heavy-duty-truck-brake/toyota-tundra

 

From my experience 17” tires are usually cheaper than 18”. Same with the wheels too.

You should also check prices on Amazon and eBay. I’ve had good luck on there

 

I may want to pick your brain about this kit….

 

Yep no problem let me know if you have any questions.

 

Oh shit! I just realized you’re not too far from me… I’m up the McKenzie, on the way to Bend from Eugene/Springfield. I’m actually headed your direction-ish in a couple hours. Picking up a tractor implement on Dayton…

It’s really looking like I’m staying on the 18” wheel plan, so am curious about brake options if I choose to upgrade down the road. They’re all expensive, but I’m definitely a buy once, cry once guy. I do my best to figure out what the best value is before I make a decision. Life experience has taught me the cheap isn’t usually a good value, but neither is wild overkill.

Are these wild overkill for a daily drive. truck on 35’s that tows? Would better pads and braided lines be enough? $5K is a chunk, but I’ve certainly spent more on less important things! Lol.

 

So if you’re towing it’s definitely a great upgrade our rigs are heavy let alone with a trailer. You could do the front kit first before adding the rear. Then just do a nice pad and rotor upgrade for the rear. We’re firm believer in overkill as far breaking is concerned.

 

No good argument to that line of thought! I’m not sure I’d go half-in if it also meant a half-ass upgrade in the rear, but certainly a thought. My feeble mind says you should upgrade all around to maintain good balance, but I’m not a brake system engineer.

How’s the dust with these things? I’m not gonna lie. I hate washing cars. Always have. I have unlimited washes at a drive through and usually hit it once or twice a week. Is the dust horrid with these pads?

 

I’m an all in person lol. Dust is much better than ebc yellows for sure. Minimal dust

 

That’s good to hear. You did all 4, or just fronts?
Install pretty straight forward I assume?

 

We did all 4 on my fathers tundra yes. Only thing we changed were the brake lines long travel. Also needed to cut and adjust the backplate. Other than that bolt in. I’ll be doing all four soon. Let me know if you need the contact to order. As I ordered them direct super nice guy.

 

Cut backing plate, I assume means open up the space for the longer caliper? I did that many years ago when I adapted IFS V6 calipers onto my 1st gen crawler. Wasn’t too tough.

I’m not LT, so assume I’ll be fine with the standard lines they send.

Thanks for the help on this. Would love to get contact info, and maybe look into seeing if it helps us both if we order two sets…

 

I’ll shoot you a message!

 

What sort of an on-road ride difference is there between E and D rated tires? I'm nearing the end of my current Cooper AT3 XLT's and I'd like something more plush.

 

What size and pressure are you running with your LR-E tires? I went from 275/55-20 LR-E to a 275/65-20 LR-E and don't feel that they ride poorly. I maintain 38# air pressure when empty and put about 42$# in them when hauling our travel trailer. I have no LR-D tire experience with this truck. I can say the LR-E is much crisper in the corners than the OEM P-rated tires. Same with the Cooper AT3 4S that were an SL rated. Those were all garbage.

 

On the street I'm running them between 35-40psi. These are 295/70r18's. I've experimented with a couple different pressures but they just always seem rough. If I air them down pretty low (like 25 psi) they get fairly smooth, but I can't roll around like that all the time. I should add that I am also running crappy coilovers on the front (fat bob's) and my rear is currently stock leafs, stock shocks, 1.5" lift block, AND airbags (no cradles, top and bottom brackets). I know none of those things help to minimize the bumpy/harsh ride but the E rated tires can't be helping things either. I am also currently talking with Matt @ MCM and hoping to upgrade soon.

On the upside, I will say these Coopers have worn really well. I have a set of 5 and with regular rotations I think I'm going to get dang near 60k out of them.

I have a friend with a Raptor and those come with 113T/C range KO2's and that truck is butter smooth on and off road. I might look into those in a 315/70r17.

Maybe I'm just getting old and want a better ride. I used to be like: "it's a truck, it's supposed to ride a little rough!" I am turning into my father...

 

I can say that my ride significantly improved when I dumped a pile of dough into suspension... ADS 2.5" coilovers, smooth rear shocks, and Deaver U748 leaf packs made a ridiculous difference. I'll be going to a 35" tire on 18" wheel this fall, but will stay LR-E because of my towing, and also because it's about all I can get in the Falken Wildpeak A/T tire I want...