1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

Oh hand sanitizer? That’s a good tip. Thanks. Shifty knows all. I have some sap and bird dung to remove still.

 

Ok, bumper photos. Should I just leave as is? Not nearly as big a deal as I remembered from dropoff.


driver side corner


passenger corner

probably not too visible but the truck does have a bit of a lift with the J66 pack so I won’t really know till it’s on.

Wait and see?

 

Hand sanitizer won't do anything for birdshit. But it's basically alcohol jelly, it works wonders for dissolving tree sap. Put a blob on the sap, rub in a circle, alcohol dissolves the sap, wipe away with clean cloth. Little alcohol wipe or alcohol on a cottonball for final cleanup if needed. The real winner is having it as a gel. With wipes/cottonball, alcohol evaps before finishing the job.

 

Yeah I’d hate to downplay it if it really is her appendix. Wife is an NP and I’m an EMT so we know a bit but the wife is always gun hoe (is that the right spelling) with things sometimes.
Just cause you hear hoofs outside doesn’t mean you’re gonna see a zebra, ya know?

 

I'd wait and see. But the rust I'm seeing, you'll want to deal with it. I'd just naval jelly per bottle instructions, then hit it with some satin rustoleum.

 

Ok, whats the trick with this? Got the bottom screw out, but cant get it to unhook from the vent. I can move it to the side enough to get the nut off the i relay. Feels like theres a screw on top.

Gonna have to go get some of that non sticky 'sealing' foam tape.

 

Paging @daveeasa ...

 

Touch it up with a small paintbrush? Cold blue?

 

I moved it enough to get the nut off. It’s plastic so it bends without breaking.

ETA: this complication is part of the reason why I pinched the scangauge cable. Not making excuses for myself but it’s tight up in that spot without the vent out of the way. If there is some straightforward way to get the vent disconnected without removing the dash, please do let me know. Otherwise just use your hands to ensure no wire pinching. The OEM harnesses are bundled nicely. It’s just any extras which could get caught.

 

Spray or touch up brush?

 

I always go for spray. Multiple light, non-covering coats within the can's listed recoat window.

 

Decided to water plants and play 'catch' (retrieve, and i'll fight you for it.).

i was cussing the lineage of some engineer, but im convinced this is extra difficult on purpose. Vent tube corner should have come off, and everything would be hunky dorry. I could even replace the foam seals.

was it sunnier that had pics of the innards of the dash, and perhaps expierience behind the scenes?

i can get it out by force, just worried about getting it back in.

 

No rush. Better safe than sorry.

the orange duct is in the way of the relay coming off the blue stud. Pic actually looks like alot more room than it feels. I'm not ready to throw the retard strength at it yet. The bottom is loose, but theres a brace in the way, and the top of the duct isnt releasing. I've cobbled a windshield wiper spring into a hook, i'll see if i can unlatch any lip that might be up top.


The bottom is all open. Gotta get creative with a 10mm hex drive (with the magnet removed for depth), hex drive extension, and long reach hex drive screwdriver to reach around the duct.

 

Yeah, I needed both my extensions. The 1/4 drive extensions are skinny so there was enough play with the vent to mash it to the side. Did that twice. It's not a significant problem and once you break tension you can remove the extension and grab the socket then turn it by hand with your fingers. Just need to crack it to get it off (and smack it tight to get it on).

Very short term bendage to the vent.

You want photos of my socket set? 3/8 would be too much meat, 1/4 is the way to go.

 

"The bottom is loose, but theres a brace in the way, and the top of the duct isnt releasing"
^^ Exactly, removing the screw holding the bottom to the trim gave me enough play. I never got the top to release. I think it's snapped in via clips at the back of the vent and you'd have to remove the entire dash to get to that safely with a flathead screwdriver. Break that stuff and it might rattle/sit loose and you'd be bummed or have to replace significant plastic.

I deforms OK at the point where you need it to.

I can't remember if I went in through the switch panel hole or from below though, if I took mine apart again I could remind myself but this aspect makes me want to say f that

 

Also, get that center vent coupler out of there, it 'll come out the other side easy, set it on the passenger seat for now, more room.

 

It's making me feel better that this is a problem for you too, I assumed I just suck at wrenching. But I was in a costco parking lot at the time and had only a few hours to get it done or I'd have to hotwire the headlights or camp out overnight.

 

im comfy. Had to wear my dog out so hes napping instead of up my ass.

 

i'm jelly. I have no excuse. Some jackass made things jiggle resistant. But i've still got 3 days before my oil cooler hoses show up.

 

You don't need much play to get it on the nut. Just push and set the socket, crack it, remove, release. Then hand-spin.

 

Looks like you got everything ironed out, bro. Now go have a beer!

 

Dat a thigh master I see there?

 

I actually have that exact same bucket for zip ties sitting next to it.

 

Make sure you’re not pressed for time.

 

Blown away by these prices:

https://tucson.craigslist.org/cto/d/tucson-2002-toyota-tundra-sr5-v8/7575813634.html

 

Its a might D light. Pretty handy, and i can usually wedge it anywhere it needs to be. I got 2 of em like 5 years ago, and they're troopers.

 

I mean ... One owner, all-AZ truck, 4WD V8, clean as hell, 73k miles, with a great cap on it, and the best body style ... 100% makes sense to me. I think if you could clear that at 18k-19k you just secured yourself an awesome truck for the next 20-30yrs and 600k+ more miles.

 

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