2000-2006 Tundra big brake upgrade kit (14WA calipers)

Is this upgrade front only?

I see some posts referring to rear pads. Do they mean rear ‘shoes’ or can the rear brakes be converted from drum to disk?

 

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I think that you meant to say that the bigger 14 WA calipers require the larger 17" wheels.

 

It's a typo or lost in translation, shoe vs. pad. Don't take it literally. Some comments for you on your question...

This one: https://www.tundras.com/threads/200...upgrade-kit-14wa-calipers.61231/#post-1604761

This one, and the reply after (from our resident Toyo mech): https://www.tundras.com/threads/failing-rear-diff-at-54k-2004-tundra.98660/#post-2514286

 

Yeah, good catch. 17" wheels.

 

Thanks for helping mill the ears on my OEM calipers and being a great resource. It's been a few months and no regrets!

 

Does anyone know the torque specs for the 14mm and 17mm bolts that hold the caliper together? My local machine shop needs me to halve the calipers.

 

Hey Geoff, new here, but I've read a lot of your posts and you seem to be an awesome resource! I'd like to do the 14WA front caliper upgrade on my 05 Sequoia, do you still offer the machined front calipers or could I send you a set to machine? If not, can you point me in the right direction? Thanks in advance!

 

Is opening those things a good idea?

 

Probably not, but I'm kinda curious to see pics of it... NGL

 

I'm also interested in the front upgrade. Anyone know where I can get them machined??

 

I do - but it can be a rabbit hole. 13WE, 13WL to start makes a difference it seems. Search the brake upgrades, not all have gone as planned.

 

I’m on 13WL cause I like even number wheel sizes. No complaints. Jason, my mechanic, said he didn’t like the brakes for a few months and finally realized he had to bleed the prop valve to get the lines fully clear. I’m sure everyone else knows that but just something to be extra aware of both for replacing and for maximizing performance of what you have.

 

Yeah, you have to bleed that thing. I think I'm gonna eliminate it. I bent the crap out of my rod from the axle housing and no real change. I do like the idea of less lines to push when you are trying to maximize pressure. One less brake line from the MC to the rear? Hmmm.

 

Geoff works for Agility Customs in SLC. Give them a call and ask for him.

https://www.agilitycustoms.com/

 

It's no big deal. There's only one seal for the fluid to pass from inside to outside. Otherwise its just clamped together with the bolts.

Best I've got. Never took one with them laying on the bench separated.

 

I love my 14WA conversion especially after the T100 MC/Booster.

 

Seems like they're selling these again at Agility. I just got a set in today. I'm going through and ordering the rest of the stuff I need but want to make sure I get the right items.
I was going to go with 2015 4-runner rotors and pads from McGeorge Toyota or Olathe. I would like to get factory rotors and pads for now at least. Can anyone confirm that these are all interchangable?

 

Hey folks, I'm new to the Tundra life and am interested in fixing the Achilles heel of this fantastic truck. I have read several forums about the, "big brake" upgrade and I am going to attempt this upgrade and do my best to document the experience.

My son has shown interest in videoing the whole thing and putting it up on YouTube, so we will see how that goes.

I currently have an 05 Tundra SR5 DC 2WD. As it drives now, there is a slight shudder under mild braking. It also has what I can only describe as a grabby feel. It is difficult to apply steady braking as when it grabs, it can be abrupt. I know there is work that needs to be done, so rather than re-do what is commonly regarded as the weak link in this vehicle, I have opted to try out a larger 14WA setup.

I have purchased a set of used calipers from eBay. The ones I bought came from a parted out 2013 4 Runner with approximately 130,000 mi. I paid a little over $200 after shipping for the set.

I reached out to a local machine shop about the 5/32, (or 3.5mm) shave that will need to be done for a bolt on fit. They said they would shave both for $60. While I'm waiting on the calipers, I will be shopping around for stainless steel brake lines, rotors and pads.

I would also like to mention that I am not a mechanic, and only know what I know through reading forums and watching YouTube videos. Most if not all the work to be done will be done by whoever I can pay/bribe into helping me as I am on a budget.

If anyone has advice or would like to follow along with my journey, I would really appreciate it.

Let the fun begin!

 

"Slight shudder". "Grabs hard".

Sounds like the symptoms a person would find in these trucks if the rear drums aren't adjusted correctly. Read on: https://www.tundras.com/threads/rear-brake-adjustment-theory-and-practice.99575/

 

I'm going through the process and need advice on how to correctly determine how much ear I need to mill off the caliper. I have gone through this thread extensively, and have read several different recommendations. The range has spread from as little as less than 3mm to as much as just over 4mm. When starting this build, I thought this would be a standard fit and there would be a definite measurement I could go by. My first thought was to split the difference and go with say 3.25mm.

You can always take more off, but you can never cut more on.

I have noticed mixed results in the 14WA upgrade. Pedal travel, mushy brakes, double pumping to grab, etc. Others seem to have good results. I am trying to determine the variables. These trucks have two, (or more) different master cylinders. Mine is the one with a larger fluid tank and the stainless booster on the side.

I wonder if different master cylinders has any impact on the outcome of the upgrade. I also wonder if milling depth +/- a single mm has much effect on end results.

Attached pic of my mc.

Thoughts?

 

Jim Smola on facebook does the milling now. I tried to find something from him and came up with nothing.

From what I have gathered, the double cabs seem to have less issues with the brake upgrade, but that's based on a sample of 5 people.

Do you tow a lot with your truck? My DC brakes are pretty good (not great, but not bad), rear discs are adjusted and in good working order. New rotors and Akebono pads. I have EBC pads on the sequoia and the tundra grabs better initially, but when I really mash them the EBC pads are better (green stuff pads and WE calipers). Might try Hawk or EBC yellow next time.

 

I just finished my 2005 upgrade I did the 14 WB from a 2022 4Runner and I did 3mm and I think it's perfect it might be off just a hair but nothing to worry about

 

What model truck do you have? And which master cylinder? VSC? Pic of MC if you can.

 

I have the 2005 Toyota Tundra 4.7 L xr5 crew cab from my personal experience I don't have the need to change any other parts other than the calipers and rotors because the brakes work absolutely beautiful even better than the factory in my case in terms of the stopping power and the pedal and again I use the 14wb calipers directly from Toyota I bought it for a 2022 Toyota 4Runner I mailed it 3 mm and for the bolt hole on the caliper I made bushings to take up the space for the smaller Bolt in order for it to fit exactly as it needs also on another thing I seen folks talk about modifying the dust shield in my case I didn't have to do anything to the dust shield other than push it back a little bit from the new caliper so it won't touch and I use the original brake line as well

 

Would love to see a pic of which master cylinder/booster setup you have, stock.

 

Stock master and brake booster

 

This was my before and one more thing for you guys out there if you're going to do this look for parts directly from Toyota rather than buying use I was able to get everything from Toyota shipped to my house for under $500 that's both calipers and rotors I see a lot of folks online trying to sell the calipers way too expensive I pay roughly $130 for a caliper and less than 60 for a rotor I was able to reuse my original Toyota brake pad with the calipers I use because they only had like 5,000 miles on them

 

Ah. You've got the 2-piece "unicorn" master cylinder. Hope the seals never fail in the middle part. There's no re-seal kit available, and Toyota doesn't sell the individual part anymore, only the assembly for like $1k+.

People I see complain about poor braking often have DC trucks with the little silver booster canister on the side and a master cylinder with a face like a Pug, i.e. horribly flattened like it ran face first into a wall. Be happy you don't have that one.

On the 2-piece MC you have, sometimes one of the seals will go bad on that middle piece, and belch brake fluid into the booster. If you ever notice your brake fluid is strangely reducing over time, that should be your #1 culprit if you find no clear leaks in the lines.

EDIT: I honestly think a lot of the weak braking issues people have on the 1st Gen Tundras is tied more to the booster than anything else. I think the little shit-booster-can thingy is a big part of the problem. I'm guessing it can't kick out as much vacuum as the big black dish-shaped booster that's more common.

 

The brakes master that I have on my truck directly from Toyota is not that bad after all

https://trdshop.carlocktoyotaoftupelo.com/oem-parts/toyota-brake-master-cylinder-472070c010

 

13.1 mm mill on 14WA out of a 4 Runner