2003 SR5 frame replacement????

Hi, new to the forum but not Toyotas. Have had several over the years ranging from 1986, 87, 88, and 89 pickups and 4 -1st gen Tundras. Recently looked up VIN on my 2003 Tundra and found open safety recall on frame. Frame is beyond gone and they got approval from Toyo corp to go ahead with frame swap. Really need advice as there is conflicting and ambiguous information regarding parts and labor costs that they are responsible for vs out of pocket cost. Anyone have any guidance on this? They said the only things covered is the frame, any hardware(nuts/bolts)and control arms. Anything else such as brake/fuel lines, cab mounts, leafs or anything else I would need to buy. I was told that I can buy aftermarket parts and drop them off and labor would be discounted at 50%. Is there any truth to this? I have read that it depends not only on what dealership you talk to but who you talk to also(different answers from different reps at same dealership). While the motor is out I would have them do all belts, hoses and timing belt/water pump. I'll pick up some high quality shocks/coilovers too. Any other advice on work/parts to consider now that it will be ripped apart? Very apprehensive about the whole process and don't want to be nickel and dimed to death, buy stuff I dont need to or eliminate something I shouldn't! Many, many thanks!

 

I’d recommend going here to answer a lot of your questions:

https://www.tundras.com/threads/early-1st-gen-2000-2003-tundra-frame-replacement-faq.54331/

 

Basically, everything you've said is true. The only thing covered is the frame, and brake lines. You can supply parts, and you will buy parts that they break, and that you need.

It does matter which dealership you go to, and who you talk to. That's why I drove three hours to drop my truck off at a dealership that 100% has done frame swaps, and knew what they were doing.

I bought new bed bolts, new cab mounts, new body mounts, new bolts, new "soft" brake lines from the caliper to the hard piping on the truck, and new rear shocks that Toyota installed at discounted, or free labor. I paid for the lower control arms that they put in, and cam adjusters, but they were Toyota parts. I think I ended up paying them around $1,800 for the frame job, and everything else I had them do including diagnose my 4WD system.

I had them do a lot of other shit too that I just can't remember. Anyways... Long story short, you're pretty much up to snuff on everything you brought up.

How many miles on this 2003 you have Sean?
Stored inside, or outside the majority of its life?
4WD/2Wd?
How long do you plan on keeping this truck?

As @Jack McCarthy said... All the info you need is pretty much covered in the thread he linked.

 

OP sent me a message I saw that first. Here's my reply from that...

It's been a while but if I recall correctly: Lower control arms, brake and fuel lines rear brake proportion valve, fuel tank straps, and spare tire holder. That's the most of it.

The brake line clip that holds the brake lines up right where they curve to go under the truck under the master cylinder will probably break and they don't cover it. I'll see if I can find a part number for that. @Tundra2 you posted that part number at some point I think.

If you need shocks replaced, want to upgrade upper control arms, replace your rack and pinion (or just replace the bushings), or need to replace brake soft lines/hoses (I recommend this last one) this is the time to do it. Labor costs nothing for these parts as far as I know.

If the truck is already at the dealer and you aren't sure of your last timing belt replacement I'd recommend doing that too though that is full price so that's up to you. Would be about $1000 for that give or take.

Each dealer seems to do things a bit different so I can't promise you anything.

You sure about that? I'm almost certain mine were included.

 

I'm going to take a wild stab and say every dealership is different, especially if it's not something they normally do. Remember that one guy who came on here recently saying a dealership wanted to charge him, like, $5,800 in parts and labor or something similarly crazy? He was pretty pissed off. "This is a recall, why am I paying so much?!"

 

Yeah I saw that one. You'd think this stuff would be to the books. They would just all do it the same. Wonder where @Stoutmouth65 is located?

 

I did post that. I forgot all that other stuff that you mentioned above this line in your message.

No, I'm not 100% sure. My brain is thoroughly enveloped with Subaru right now. Swimming, swarming, and swurlin.

Anyways, the steering rack bushings you mentioned... the dealer you, and I both used told me that they would not do the steering rack bushings because they've broken steering racks before pressing out bushings.

 

I'm pretty sure lower control arms were covered. The steering rack thing was odd to me. They did mine (they said they did anyway) but then said they didn't want to do yours. Not sure why it was like that.
(For context to anyone else @Tundra2 and I used the same dealer)

 

It may actually be in the books. The nickname "Stealership" exists for a reason. Not all of them play by the books. The service area is a gd racket IMHO. I had an interesting conversation about the one I used on the south side of town once or twice. He used to manage it before moving GA=>AL. He had some really colorful stories about the stuff they do to customer vehicles which wasn't very pleasant. Sad part is, the service manager at the current dealership he was at was pretty halfass also, IMO.

It's hard to win with that. There's a reason I go with small shops where I can shoot the shit w/the mechanic to know whether they can be trusted. And even then, I find stupid shit was done.

 

@Stoutmouth65 If you're having the timing chain/water pump replaced, you might want to also have the Cam/Crank seals and Valve Cover gaskets replaced. Had all the above done on my son's 06 DC at 150k miles. One cam seal was leaking and mechanic recommended doing all at the same time to save labor costs down the road.

 

Myself and at least one or two others have used ATP

$21 AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks, 8 Ounce Bottle

AT-205 when cam seal leak popped up. No more cam seal leak (knock on wood) going on a year now, across at least 3 oil change cycles, with no added treatment. No adverse side effects. Thread showing what I was dealing with over here - which was both valve cover gasket leaks, leaks at the FIPG joint of the covers, and driver cam seal leak.

At first I thought the AT-205 wasn't working 100% after a couple hundred miles of driving. It wasn't until I got the valve covers off to replace all cover gaskets that I realized the previous person in my valve covers screwed a couple of things up and did a shit job with their FIPG and it became clear, AT-205 clearly stopped the valve cover gasket leaks and the cam seal leaks, but couldn't fix the FIPG problems caused by the last person/previous owner of my truck in he heads.

ATP is the only company I could find that asserts their product won't over-swell seals and gaskets, which I guess is common with some other leak-fix products? Dunno. It worked for me and was a hell of a lot cheaper than having the cam seals done at 70,000 miles. I hear it works wonders for power steering leaks and rear main seals also. At least one gearheads I know/respect over on ih8mud swears by the stuff.

 

It may just be a dealer difference, I didn't own the truck when it was replaced under the LSC but they didn't charge for anything and it was an extensive list. Or maybe it's a difference between the recall and the LSC.

 

Thanks to all for the great info. To answer some ???, I live in PA but the truck spent majority of life in MA. 4WD, 118K miles and body and interior is very good so guessing someone loved and cared for it. I plan on being buried in this truck so in it for long haul and willing to put $$$ into it within reason. They are still insisting that brake/fuel lines, tank straps are not included and out of pocket but I'm going to dispute this claim.

 

Feel free to call Toyota of America to talk to them. Can't hurt.

 

Show them the pic of the receipt from @Festerw. I'll get mine posted as soon as I can. Phone signal at work is terrible. It shows everything they covered which is very similar to Festerw's post.

 

Great suggestion. I will and yours as well when you get a chance to post. I'm going to try to be as civil as possible and deal with the service manager as much as possible. Maybe I'll bring him a bottle of good scotch!

 

Could also look into other dealership options. Even if you have to drive an hour or so it may be better off for you. I also 2nd the "call Toyota America" and see what they have to say.

 

Frame and brake lines are covered. Lower control arms will be if they can’t get the bushings free from the cam bolts. BUT the dealer will need to submit for approval on those from Toyota. If they try charging you it’s bull. We have a 2001 in the shop right now getting the frame, brake lines, and the lower arms. Everything else is reused (except for little odds and ends) unless otherwise asked by customer for replacement


Most dealers will leave the engine in cab supported to save time. There will likely be no labour savings if you want engine stuff done unless it’s an oil pan

 

Thanks Dan. I spoke to dealership rep yesterday afternoon and he now admits brake lines are covered as well as frame and control arms. I'll have to ask about engine. I was going to have them do timing belt, water pump etc but I guess that will depend now

 

Here are my receipts

They pulled the engine out of mine separate but it may have been because I wanted them to do the timing belt anyway. Even without the discount.


Also if you want to do the timing belt you may be better off buying the Aisin kit from Rockauto as it'll save you money. I would have done this had I realized the $700 they quoted didn't include the tensioner or the idler pulley for an extra $300 in parts. That is if the dealership will let you supply your own parts like mine did.

 

No aftermarket headers?