General Supercharger Thread

I agree. I've done too many pillar mounted gauges on my vehicles in the past too and wanted something a little nicer. Not that i even really saw any available A-pillar pods anyways. I ended up using a vent ring mount from a Mustang.

 

So is this referencing post intercooling? Talking to Harrop they sell a temp/pressure sensor but you have to figure out how to wire it.

 

Stock cats seems to be pretty "hi flow" from what's been posted, probably a Keith question.

 

Good question. There’s a vacuum hose on top driver side of blower that I tapped into for the gauge. If I had to guess, I’d say pre intercooler.

 

Same here. I’m 5’11” and I’ve missed whole vehicles hiding behind that pillar at some 4 way stop intersections. I’m glad someone else said this because my wife says I’m a terrible driver.

 

Tuner just called me, said the truck made 510wp and 502qt, doesn't that seem super low? I was think about 580whp. I have the 2.3 pulley on my Mag with the pro speed intake.

 

Was it a Mustang dyno?

 

It looks like a Dynojet.

 

Doesn’t seem that low lol

 

I thought it would be closer to 550 plus, maybe I had high hopes.

 

Our drivetrain loss doesn’t help

 

Seeing the pro speed trucks make over 600 at the wheels gave me a hope to hit that with the same set up.

 

What other parts do you have on there?

 

They're on a hub dyno with less parasitic loss.. until they put the wheels back on

 

remind me...do you have the bigger intake?

 

So are the number I have normal ? it just seems low to me. I do have the 4.5 intake and a RCF Throttle body, 2.3 pulley.

 

I wouldn’t be too concerned with the Dyno numbers. Dynos can be set all over the place. The proof is in times etc

 

Maybe with a built lower block but if you’re doing 600 hp at the rear wheels with your stock engine, it’s not going to last. It’s been said thousands of times on these forums stock Toyota 5.7’s engines can only handle about 600 hp maybe 620 hp at the crank which translates to about 520 rwhp.

 

Yes you’re doing good

 

Looking back a bit, @Saltyhero13 was at 300whp stock and then ~450whp with his Harrop, so getting a ~200whp increase from a 2.3 pulley doesn't sound that far off.

 

Prospeeds dyno numbers don’t mean much unless they can tell you the stock horsepower and torque before the mods as well. They’re a bit inflated on the hub dyno. 600hp on a hub dyno is probably 500 if you’re lucky on DAPs heart breaker dyno for example. You have to look at the details of their builds too. Many of them are all out builds with all of the goods including full ARH exhaust from longtubes to full exhaust, 4.5” intake, RCF TB, 7” crank pulley, E85 tune, methanol injection, MoTec ECU etc. 510 sounds pretty strong on a roller dyno especially for stock manifolds. The TRX puts down 580whp with its 702 at the crank, you’re doing pretty good.

I remember one of Prospeeds builds was a magnuson with a 2.3 pulley, PS fuel system and intake, ARH longtubes and a corsa catback and it did 560 on a hub dyno, which is probably about equal to 510 on a roller.

 

Agree. Was sitting on 500WHP/520TQ with the 80mm on Stage 2+ on a dynojet. Probably lower after changing out filters. Edit for clarity.

Same air flow if you adjust for smaller displacement and pulley assuming the rotor pulley is about 176mm.

 

Surprised it's not terrible. I think it is around 17% loss or somewhere abouts.

 

Not as bad as I would've thought in stock form lol

 

Yeah I think most people expect 25%

 

I think this isn't emphasized enough.

Reading through a crap ton of posts here, YT and on Tundrasolutions ~500 WHP is probably the sweet spot without a built engine and it still may be a crap shoot with the conrods and tight rings.

Prospeed has a good write up on the limits of this platform.

 

I think you are in the ball park.

 

A damn good video on chassis vs hub dynos. Sounds like chassis dynos are very hard to compare one run to another with the same car….let alone one vehicle on one dyno to another vehicle on a different dyno. The wheel and tire setups and even how tightly the vehicle is strapped down massively influence the readings. Sounds like to get the most repeatable and cleanest data a hub dyno is the way to go. Mid way through the video they do a back to back Dyno on a chassis and hub dyno with a Porsche. Even in the mid 200hp range the chassis dyno lost 21hp PER REAR TIRE vs the hub. And that difference only gets larger with higher powered vehicles and bigger heavier tires and wheels.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=DtgEB8jpsYU

 

I have the Harrop with 80mm pulley. Makes 7 - 8 psi. Also have JBA longtubes and 3" Dirty Deeds dual exhaust and no cats. It made 512 on a Mustang dyno. Getting more air in on the top, you have to let it out on the other end.

 

I lost power adding headers on my last Tundra s/c build, I had JBA from dirty deeds.