For those who’ve had cam towers repaired

I’ve noticed since I got my truck a little over a year ago that the passenger side cam tower was slightly leaking. It’s very slowly getting worse so I’m still just monitoring it when I change my oil.

I’m an auto tech so when the time comes I’ll be doing this job myself on a weekend. Anyone that have had this done or DIYed it have a parts list with part numbers? Planning on doing plugs, all 4 tensioners and possibly water pump while I’m in there too.

 

Search cam tower leak in upper right, there are several detailed threads with lots of info that will be helpful to you.

 

there are 2 threads "stickied" to the top of the 2nd and 2.5 gen rooms

https://www.tundras.com/forums/2-5-gen-tundras-2014-2021.27/

 

Oh hey, is it really just a weekend job? I thought it was way more involved than that. I suppose you've got a better equipped garage than most, being in the profession, but what I as a total layperson heard, you have to pull the engine?

 

Nah, it's all on top.
I got both sides fixed under warranty and it took the Master tech about a day and a half.

 

Seems like I have seen something about the easiest way is to lift the cab off.

 

Heck no, it's not a Ford!

 

https://youtu.be/MiO9ARX9Lts

 

Awesome thank you!

 

I honestly thought about it. I’ve had cabs off a few fords for timing chains but the key word to that is fords haha. Think I’d leave it on for this one though. Think the only way I’d lift the cab on the tundra is for engine removal.

 

Yeah my family owns a shop so I’d have free rein in the shop. Plan would be tear the thing down on a Friday after work, back together on Saturday and maybe button it up on Sunday if need be.

 

OP, have you considered doing hp valve springs while you are in there? Maybe Manley's or something comparable?

 

Not particularly. Just depends on budget at the time. I saw somewhere that someone was making upgraded cams for a 3urfe, That interests me. I’d go that route and Manley’s springs for sure if I could afford it and based what I could do without needing the PCM reflashed to keep the light on.

 

There are likely hp cams out there, but I think that would lead to needing special pistons in order to have proper clearance for the valves. Regardless, good luck with the repair, hope you get it knocked out without any issues.

 

Probably right. We have a customer that’s a big cylinder head guy. He was actually involved with NASCAR at one point. I thought about if I ever come across a set of tundra heads to let him take a look and see what he could do if he’d be interested that is.

And thanks! I’m probably changing my oil this weekend so I’m going to see how bad the leak truly is and go from there.

 

You could try switching over to 5w30 and see if that helps. I made the switch on mine, and I like the results and will continue to use it on the future changes. My truck had the cam tower leak fixed under warranty right before I bought it, 15k miles later and it’s leaking again. If it’s not dripping on the exhaust or ground I’d honestly just leave it if it were me. My 2010 and my current truck both had some seepage but it was never consequential. No drips, and no oil loss between changes. If anything it’s just a stigma thing for future buyers if you resell who don’t truly understand the issue.

 

Could not tell from the video, but does the AC condenser have to be removed?
Thanks,
bc

 

Look, devil's advocate here. This is a big job. Well beyond your average mechanics garage setup. I kinda like the YouTube Toyota mechanics view on this. "Mechanics call in sick/take time off knowing this job is waiting for them".

 

I never contemplated doing the job myself. Way over my head. I was just curious if the condenser had to be removed. From the parts list, it appears not necessary. My 2019 has a leak on the drivers side. I still have 3 years of Platinum warranty left to decide what to do.
bc

 

To me it doesn’t look like it would have to be removed unless someone would feel the need to work all through the front. I’d pull the radiator for sure though. Gives a good bit more room. Unless I’d lift the cab.

 

Im needing this done, and the quote from the dealership was outrageous. Found someone local that quoted 14 hrs for a total of $1900. What yall think?

 

The quote sounds right to me, for both sides. I would be dang sure the mechanic is confident doing this. You need the Toyota sealant AND the correct amount or it could leak again.

 

Ask for a reference of others he/she fixed with the same problem. It's a major project.

 

Haven’t done this repair yet. Still kind of monitoring it. Wouldn’t mind tackling one at work just haven’t had the opportunity yet.

 

Good to know! Thank you, I will ask about the sealant and if he is confident with this repair. Hes a toyota certified mechanic but still ya never know.

 

I watched this guy’s video. He has made probably the best YouTube video talking about tundra “issues” or what actually fails on them. Most of the perceived “issues” are basic maintenance items but there are a few things like the cam tower leak. He was talking about how this job kills your back and that you better buy the technician some coffee

 

such said video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l2OAHImTgA8

 

2018 Limited TRD 4x4 Tundra - Currently at 96K miles

In May 2024, I had the cam tower leak on the driver side repaired. Unfortunately, several issues arose immediately after the repair:

• The truck was not test-driven post-repair. When I picked it up, it barely made it down the road. I returned it immediately and had to leave it overnight. They discovered that the oil control valve connectors had been mistakenly connected to the intake, and vice versa.
• The next day, I picked up the truck, and it drove fine. However, when I got home, I noticed it had leaked oil all over my driveway. They found that the valve cover sealant had been rubbed off during installation and fixed it.
• I drove the truck for about 4,000 miles without issues. Last week, I noticed a small tick in the engine and took it back to the same dealer. They told me everything was properly secured and the tick was normal. I took it to another dealer the same day, and they said the tick was not normal and scheduled a service for me two days later.
• When I got home from scheduling the diagnosis with the second dealership, I inspected the engine myself. I found a rag and about 7-12 missing bolts along the entire engine. The next day, I fired up the truck, and it sounded like metal on metal. Instead of driving it to the dealer for the diagnosis, I had it towed.
• Six hours later, I got a call informing me that there were metal shavings in my oil pan and oil filter, and that my engine was toast. They quoted $18,000 for a new motor. They are currently tearing it down to get warranty approval for a new motor.

What would you do in this situation? Burn the dealership to the ground or…?

 

Dang, and that’s just what you found.

I would take to a good independent for an inspection.

Ugg… Hope it works out.