Below freezing 4x4 not engaging??

2017 sr5 double cab
Bought it in 2017. In 2020 had the problem. Took it to dealer near me. They said they changed the actuator in front axle. (Then gave me an attitude for bringing to them and not where I bought it )
Worked till now 12-15-2022. Below freezing will not engage. But if I drive for 15 -20 minutes it will work.
Worked all summer long.
Anyone had this issue and solved it??
Thanks for reading this.

 

Have you ever changed the transfer case fluid? If so what fluid did you use? If you haven't I would start there. If you have and used 75w90, I would try replacing with OEM 75w Transfer Case Oil.

 

Do you exercise it regularly? Hi and lo need regular monthly exercise or they will become stuck.

 

Changed fluid this summer 75w90. Fluid was good. I engaged 4x4 all summer long.
I’m thinking it is electric based problem

 

If it was working during the summer and also works when the fluid is warmed up after 15-20min of driving, what would cause you to think it's electrical? 75w90 is much thicker especially at cold temps than the correct fluid which is 75w. 2014+ have a different transfer case than pre 2014 and thats when the fluid spec changed. If you dont want to spend the money on the OEM fluid, people have also reported success using Ravenol 75w, its not close the to OEM on oil analysis but its better than using 75w90. I would start with trying the correct fluid first but thats just me.

 

You used the wrong fluid. There is a strong probability that is the problem.

 

Why did it do it in 2020. Had original fluid.
Trying to find paper work from dealer for the 2020 service.

 

Paperwork won't help your transfer case having 75w90 - mine was shifting slowly too, and then I did my transfer case with good 75W (Ravenol) and my front and rear differentials while I was at it. Now it's a pretty quick shift, just a few seconds rolling.

Remember to shift in and out of 4Hi at lower speeds in the cold, 50mph tops until it's warmed the fluid a bit, 62mph when warm if I'm recalling the manual correctly.

 

Agree with using Ravenol. Engages much quicker.

 

I'm not saying it's not good to work the actuators now and then, and I know the manual says to do it at least once a month, but I can tell you that's really not such a hard rule. I use 4WD when I need it, which sometimes that's every day for a time, sometimes I might go 3-6 months without using it. It's never been an issue.

 

And what year is your truck??? Looks like a 2021. An ounce of prevention is often worth a pound of cure. I'm just going to exercise both of mine regularly, and use the recommended oil. Don't make much sense to pay over 70k for the truck and mods and then be concerned about the cost of oil occasionally. Just my .02!

 

Agreed! It's also stated in the manual to engage the system once a month for 10 miles.but hey to each their own. I've met people who don't change their oil until 20 or 30k miles (when their engine starts sounding like a rattle can) and swear by how reliable their car is and they don't "need" to change it so often because its running just fine.......until it's not. But to each their own.

 

The manual just says to run 4hi for 10 miles a month right? Not sure if 4low needs to be engaged that often.

 

Mine says about 4 hi it doesn't mention 4 low

 

Yes, my current truck is a 2021. Doesn't mean it's my first...or second...or third.

Your original post that I quoted said "Hi and lo need regular monthly exercise or they will become stuck". All I was saying is, no...it's not remotely so cut and dry. If that was the case, that would be a pretty unreliable system.

 

But obviously Toyota recommends exercising the 4wd system for a reason. There are many threads on here about stuck actuators and most of them did not exercise the system at all. Its cheap insurance to just turn it on once in awhile. I probably dont ever do 10 straight miles with it on unless actually off road or in the snow/ice but I will once a month click it on in a parking lot and even 4lo when I can for good measure, even if its just 100ft, at least I know its working, rather than waiting to need it and it not work.

 

And again, I'm not saying it's not a good idea to periodically engage 4WD to keep things moving. But the idea that it must be done once a month or you're going to have problems, no. I'm glad I don't have a truck that temperamental.

I can tell you I don't know anyone outside of this forum who does that once a month thing. But most people I know with a 4WD truck also tend to have an actual reason to engage 4WD periodically. But if they go without a reason for two months, or three, or six, I've yet to see it cause a problem.

I don't spend a ton of time here, but I don't really recall seeing all that many threads here with actuator problems. Most threads I see here where someone has any issue engaging or disengaging 4WD are cases where they aren't providing the truck the right conditions to operate.

 

What does they are not providing the truck the right conditions to operate mean?

https://www.tundras.com/threads/g2-4wd-actuator.47592/

https://www.tundras.com/threads/front-diff-transfer-case-actuator-diagnosing.51474/

https://www.tundras.com/threads/transfer-case-actuator-question.110851/#post-3014851

https://www.tundras.com/threads/3rd-gen-transfer-case-fix-stuck-in-4wd-fix.71027/

https://www.tundras.com/threads/4hi-flashing.116652/#post-3010546

https://www.tundras.com/threads/2007-2020-transfer-case-actuator.61182/

 

It means for every legit problem there's probably 20 where someone asks about their truck not going into 4LO because they're not in neutral, or doesn't want to come out of 4HI while turning or accelerating, etc, etc, etc..

 

Operator error aside they transfer cases have been shown in threads to be more temperamental than previous years with requiring specific fluid to work properly or tales of actuators giving out from lack of use, to the thread on replacing the actuator ourselves when it sticks it is the weak link of the system. dealerships and home diy alike have found that out the hard way that

$39 75w-90 GL-5 Limited Slip, Ultra Long Drain 500k Miles, Manual Transmission, Gear/Differential Lubricant (1 Gallon)

75w-90 in the transfer case cause stuck actuators. Given that the transfer case is weak link and the intermittent issues that pop up with the 4wd system are all the more reason to care for it to the manufacture specs. Especially when both of the last two dealers I went to tried to convince me that the 75w-90 they wanted to put in it was just as good.

but hey if you like how you do it then rock it because that's what it's about. I and I'm sure many others got 4x4 for the few times where we needed it before and were really in a pickle without it. I'm sure there are a lot here too that use it everyday and that's good too.

TLDR: you got the truck, do what you like, no regrets

 

When first starting up or when temps are extremely cold/snowy I have the same issue and just have had to wait a little longer for it to engage or drive gently in 2wd for maybe 3-5 mins and then it engages perfect I think the thicker oil at the colder temperature does make the actuator slower/ less likely to engage right away. Driving 2wd a little solves it almost always. Since 2wd does still warm the TC fluid.

 

If its snowing when I park my truck, I'll typically just leave it in 4wd too.

 

Just changed mine with the Ravenol 75w
and it works as it should. Ravenol references the Toyota T/C oil part numbers right on the bottle. Also, Ravenol has partnered with Toyota of Europe so they know what does and does not work with Toyota.
Paying $70-$90 per liter of the toyota brand tc oil is a hard pill to swallow.

 

This is not correct. Ravenol references the Toyota Transmission oil part number and NOT the Transfer Case oil part number. Both are 75W but I do not believe that they are equal.

 

Let me clarify.
The Ravenol 75wMTF-3 is a Manual Transmision Fluid. That is absolutely correctamundo.

The part number for “Toyota’s brand” of Tundra T/C oil is #

$96 08885-81080 Toyota Genuine Transfer Case Gear Oil LF 75W 1 Litre 08885-81080

08885-81080 which is listed on the Ravenol bottle.

There are two other Toyota oil part numbers on the bottle as well. I called Blauparts in Michigan who sell this German made oil. They confirmed not once but twice that this is the oil for my transfer case.

Im also looking at the bottle as I write this.

 

Downloaded image twice. Oooops.

 

Better photo

 

Im sure that it works just fine since I haven't seen any negative reports from people who have used it, I almost bought it myself. Whats funny though is that the Toyota part numbers that it lists are not interchangeable and completely different oils, one for a manual gear box and one for a transfer case. There are oil analysis out there that show the Ravenol is much different that the Toyota TC oil. For how often Ill be changing the TC oil, I decided to spend the extra money on the Toyota stuff to err on the side of caution and its been working just like new with it in there. Its good for 30k which is about 3 years for me so to spend a little more spread out of that time frame is negligible. Now if it were like motor oil and changed every 5k and the price was that different Id definitely opt for the Ravenol.

 

I hear what you’re saying. After my looking into this oil I had to think why would an oil company advertise an oils compatibility if it weren’t compatible especially a company that’s partnered with Toyota over there? That’s asking for some serious legal problems not to mention loss of market share. I respect what you said but I’m sticking to my guns.

 

Completely understand and I would never hate on what oil someone runs in thier truck. There is clearly even tons of trucks out there running 75w90 without an issue as well considering it seems that what dealers put in from accounts I've read on here. I only suggested changing his oil to the OP since it sounds like it works when the fluid is warmed up. I have some 75w left over and tons of 75w90, if I have some spare time I'm going to try to be an amateur Project Farm and stick some in the freezer and do a pour test. I read one account of someone that said they called Borg Warner and they said 75w90 is fine and even someone that posted an email from Toyota who said it's fine also.