Crackhead resurrection

What type of tread are you looking for now? Street tire or all terrain? I assume no more mud tires.

 

I'm not against either street, or ATs. Leaning more towards street mainly just for schmooovness.

 

E if you'll be towing. C if not and for smoothness.

 

I have 17" load range C BFG KO2's and I think they are extremely smooth on pavement. I went with C because I don't tow and they are lighter than E, so better fuel economy.

All terrain tires have come a long way. There are so many good ones on the market now that I can't imagine ever buying a highway tire. That's just me.

If you need new wheels, I'm constantly seeing nice 17" Toyota take offs listed on Marketplace. Pick a style you like and go for it.

 

There's a lot of love on here for the Wildpeak AT3, and both @empty_lord and @bmf4069 are running Discoverer ST/MAXX.

I've been eyeballing the Wildpeaks but also interested in these. I'm due for tires sooner than later.

https://www.nittotire.com/light-truck-tires/ridge-grappler-light-truck-tire/

https://www.toyotires.com/product/open-country-at2/

Both get pretty solid reviews from others here. The Toyo OC/AT3 are also looking tempting.

 

I’m a strange one and with my recent move maybe even stranger, but I really like snow tires in cold and wet conditions.

On dry pavement, with my grandpa driving style, any tire does fine.

For dirt and trail, I hope to get into that more later on. That or towing is where E’s are a nice option.

It is certainly excessive to have two sets of wheels per truck but I’m a big fan of excess.

 

I was gonna go for the wildpeaks, but discount didn't have them in stock and couldn't get them in time, so coopers it was.

 

I have 275/75/17 goodyear duratracs I got from a jeep takeoff with 12/32nd tread for $200. They are sl, but I don't tow so they are great. Little bit stiffer than stock, but in a good way.

At least out here, jeep takeoffs are plentiful and cheap.

 

This wouldn't be a bad deal. I would offer him $550-600 and see what happens. I always liked this wheel.

Not too far from you @Tundra2

 

If I'm not mistaken he said he has a set of 4runner wheels that need tires or something in a previous post. Otherwise these wheels you posted are minutes away from me.

 

Been a minute. Decided not to repin anything, and just use what I already had. Here's my temporary fix I did to get the camper home.


I cut all that bullshit out, and stripped the wires back to get a good eye ball on the copper. The new 4 flat from TSC was clean. The old OEM harness was a little gnarly, brown~ish. TSC connector first, and then OEM below that.



The solder didn't really want to stick to the OEM wiring because of the tarnishing, but I made it work. Maybe one day I'll revisit, but with my very soon to be need of a 4 flat, it'll do for now. Below you can see individual heat shrink on each wire, and then one big heat shrink to go over everything.


All shrunk up, this time not due to cold... LOL. Marine heat shrink with heat activated glue inside. Courtesy of harbus freightimus if memory serves.


Everything all shrunk up together with the big sleeve.


Finally, the finished product, with self vulcanizing tape in place of the gooped up electrical tape I took off.

I didn't test the wiring for continuity before heat shrinking. I kinda regret that now, but hey, it's already installed on the truck, and I'm sure it's gonna be fine. It reaches about two inches past where the OEM connector was mounted underneath the bumper. Due to time constraints, I don't have any pics of it installed.

I did schmoodge dielectric grease on the 4 flat, and on the OEM connector. As @NUDRAT suggested above. Would have been a great time for a plug cover, but I didn't have one on hand.

 

I do have a set of 17" 4runner rims. I just need tires. Did the picture not load? Here's one I downloaded, and then reuploaded instead of copy/paste from @Cummins3500

 

You can definitely see there was some oxygen penetration on that copper, the duller browner stuff. If you added those scotch-locks recently, I doubt it would've caused that much browning unless it was a year or two ago. But that's ultimately why you should never use scotch-locks: So much oxygen can get on that copper, it'll be dull like that pretty quick for exterior stuff, and before you know it, it's green, then it's brittle, and you're fecked.

Anyway, looks good. Probably overkill, but I like overkill, and when your life and others lives are on the line as you're towing things around, good on ya.

 

Those scotch lock POS have only been on since late August. I remember when I cut the wiring in TSC's parking lot it was already browning like that. It's only been 115 days since then. I suspect that the previous crackhead damaged the molding around the OEM 4 flat when he busted the ground pin off, thus allowing air into the copper.

I wanted to keep cutting back until I got to clean copper, but I didn't have enough length on my 4 flat I was putting on. It'll have to do for now.

 

Used actual scotch locks quite a bit at my last job. Like fancy butt connectors. Slide 2 wires in without stripping them first and it pierces the wire and squirts dielectric grease into it so it's "water resistant". Not sure I'd use it on anything at home but it is nice in industrial applications.
These things.

Those in the pics are usually referred to as T-Taps no?

 

Those are UR connectors. The other ones are scotchlocks, but we all call em t taps. In electrical world, scotch locks are a pain in the ass wire nut you have to use your linesman pliers to twist it off.

 

Those UR2s are great if you need to connect solid-core together in a pinch, but not as a permanent solution. I used them when doing telco rooms in a pinch, for POTS lines, and sometimes CAT5 runs when I was too lazy to terminate and use a coupler. Not proud of it, but I did it. I'm too anal retentive and have seen what bad can come of it, I wouldn't do it today.

This is what I call a T-tap, which are just as bad as the scotchlocks. It's basically a scotch-lock that accepts a spade plug, and they suck when you could use a Positap, which is much less invasive, less damaging, and more precise:

​

I can't tell you how many defective alarm installs I dealt with where the failure and flakiness wasn't the car alarm dying itself, it was because some dumbass used these to install, and it sawed thru wires, or caused irreparable corrosion.

Honestly, I think whoever came up with this bullshit way of splicing probably got the idea from the old 66 punchdown blocks used in the telco world for decades now. Anyone that's done telephony knows what the hell I'm talking about. Like the UR2s, the 66 punchdown blocks are great for solid-core wire (non-stranded), you're wedging the solid conductor/wire between a split circuit to make a bridge... at least, it's good until it's not. Metal contracts and expands with heat and cold, and you can get flaky connections along with the expansion/contraction of the split.

Full disclosure, I use 'scotch lock' and 'quick tap' interchageably. I honestly forget what the hell they get called, everyone has different shit they call them. But this is the gist:

​

 

I wish someone would have told me this a few years ago when I was installing my backup camera. I used the stupid quick taps that came with the camera.

 

I really wish manufacturers would stop putting these in the package. But the reality is, a Posi-tap style connector probably costs 5x as much to source, I can't imagine manufacturers pay more than 1-2¢/ea per t-tap, so spending 6-10¢/ea drives that decision to provide you with inferior installation tools that will cost you, the consumer, more hassle and money down the road, with no negative recourse to the original vendor (thanks, capitalism!)

 

I used a crappy T tap on the tundra to capture the reverse trigger. At some point I intend to cut it and crimp on terminal then do a proper T harness.

I have some leftovers in my 2016 as well, from the Karr I ripped out when I bought it.

They aren’t all that bad if they are inside the cab and not subject to massive vibration and haven’t eaten through the majority of the strands. And cutting / crimping or soldering is a good next step if they fail.

I agree they aren’t a permanent solution. And I probably should own some positaps for when I’m lazy. But I have this dream of working on these trucks till I die.

 

While I was asleep, my baby went out, and wiped down all the hard plastics in crackie, and the virus with armourall

 

Thats a keeper.

 

Nah, a real keeper would know 303 is the breadwinner.

 

The future is bright.

 

Gotta wear gloves.

 

nice. and now all your shit is sliding onto the floor.

 

So after looking at the pics of my strainer in several different pieces, and then copy/pasting them onto the subaru forum... I just realized that I never flushed out the coolant flush from crackie. Well... everything is either uber clean, or mega fawked by now. 9 months later.

 

Anyways, went out, and popped the hood before leaving work. Looks like the strainer does work.


Still have coolant in the Overflow reservoir, even if very little.



This O-light Warrior 3 is bad ass. Thanks @1lowlife! The moonlight setting or whatever is perfect for taking pictures with the phone.

 

That just means it's SUPER DUPER flushed!