What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Probably the ymca sauna

 

When the rot took my '03's fuel line, the line was rusted to a passing brake line as well.
If it's rotted out here it's not far behind everywhere else.
I didn't want to be financially responsible for a crash & I don't want to burn to death in a vehicle fire. I had the mechanic just change them all & (file went with the truck) IIRC it was about $1,200 for all new from Toyota lines installed - brakes & fuel. it was shortly before or shortly after I had to replace all the hard lines for the power steering as those rotted out about the same time. It wasn't until the exhaust rotted out that I quit the truck. But the frame was new & the body was clean. Alas, good luck Bill - may she hang on as long as you need her to.

 

Florida or the Bahamas. Neither of which I’ll be going to this year.

 

Thanks. Most of my lines are actually in good shape with minor surface rust. It’s just at these bracket connections where they rust out. Brake lines are fine. That’s the only bad area of the fuel line but my power steering lines need replacement. Already did a hose bypass on the low pressure side.

 

Looking forward - are you familiar with Fluid Film, Wool Wax, NH hot oil, etc?
The Tundra I got to too late. The Tacoma, although a MA truck, had a sheltered life & I treat it every year & drive it minimally in winter. What rust the Taco has is unchanged from when I got it some 7 or 8 years ago. Stuff on that truck dies of old age, not of rust.

Okay - snow stopped, time to go outside & shovel so I don't have to before work in the morning. You toasty southerners just zip it!

 

Is the patching and frequent expense pissing you off? If not, keep patching it and send it. Keep oiling that frame and everything else as well. No doubt the truck can outlive you as long as the hiccups aren't ruining the fun for you.

 

What I need is a warm garage to work out of instead of laying on the cold snow covered ground, but yeah I'm trying to get this to last so I can make & wait on a factory order for the 2023 baby raptor (Ranger).

 

A frame swap also isn’t a huge deal if you can DIY it… finding a used southern frame down the line would keep that truck golden for another couple decades

 

The hardest part is finding a garage with a lift I can borrow. No easy task around here.

 

Hmm. Fair. I’ve done one the hard way with jack stands and a lot of big logs. Not fun. But doable.
Worst comes to worst just ride it out then tow it here to indiana when your done with it and I’ll give it a new life… in a Tacoma

 

Who can beat a 5.3 '02 z71 avalanche for less than $5k? I found a nice 2wd tundra for $7k, bit if i lived near ice i'd want 4x4.

https://sanantonio.craigslist.org/cto/7567079916.html

@Jack McCarthy
Whats the criteria? V8, 4wd, 6.5ft+ bed, less than $10k?

 

Didn't really want to go there yet. Around here they're going for around $5-6K but they rusted underneath.

 

Wait, an Avalanche? Dude might as well buy a Ridgeline!

 

Oh, not an Avalanche. I thought he meant another 1st gen Tundra.

 

I think i linked it in the PM. I keep forgetting the space when i try to tag you. But dont just search here. These morons flood their cars . But all through the southwest. My moms infiniti came from az and dads infiniti came from mexico city.

avalance z71 is an LS swapped ridgeline.
'07-08 is the year to shoot for. The z71's got the aluminum 5.3, which are like 80 lbs lighter.

 

FYI, they make Safe-t-caps for that front frame section.



https://www.autorust.com/product/front-frame-section-art-213-s-set/

 

Yeah, someone here mentioned they’re only 10-11 awg which really isn’t that thick. I was hoping it was more like 5 awg (3/16”) like our frames.

 

My buddies brother in law in PA had plates 3/16" or 1/4" welded onto his frame. And lots of splices in his electrics.

 

L33


but the lq's are rowdy enough. 6bolt mains, forged cranks, big valve heads. All the goodness.

 

The ultimate of ultimates i've been waiting to find for my s10 blazer is a saab 9-7x ?aero? That has tall gearing and fancy torsen tcase.

i'd also like a early 90's ford or square body dodge. When trucks were built to be trucks instead of just 'looking tough'

 

Oops wrong thread for shenanigans. Sorry.

I havent done anything to my truck in 4 days. But tomorrow i'm driving it around. Due to run the tcase and all.

 

9-7X is the only loaner I took back & asked "Do you have ANYTHING else?"
Hit a bump in the road & the truck would jump a 1/2 lane this way or that way. Then almost got in a head-on with a distracted-driver Maybach.
Hated the 9-7X.

 

Yea, it was like they were throwing saab badges on pontiacs. And the controls are dumb until you learn where things are. But the aero got a real deal LS2. And they were babied by old ladies.

 

Buttoned up the hammer hangers yesterday afternoon. Took it for a little drive and so far I am impressed. It seems to have tightened up the rear suspension nicely. Potholes that would cause jitters through the truck before but are no more.
In the second pic, I repainted my stock shackles, pressed new poly bushings in, and added grease fittings to keep things nice and smooth.

 

Forgive my ignorance, but you have two right-hand hangers? I thought all right-hand parts were typically stamped "R" and left "L". This may just be my ignorance to tearing down the rear-end on these trucks.

 

LM7 is Escalade. Great GenIII engine to stuff in anything, and many LS and LQ parts interchange.

 

I think that the "r" is for rear, as in that side goes toward the rear. I wasn't able to tell a difference between the two shackles.
I just looked at an online toyota parts dealer and it says both sides are interchangeable. Good eye though @shifty`

 

I was curious about your R = REAR point, but ... there's no front hanger... or is there? Anyway, interesting to see. I'm going to dig in the parts catalog if I get a free minute today, see what I see.

 

Think he means the part itself’s orientation VS its position. The R goes towards the rear of the truck VS the front of the truck.

 

Ah, if so, big 'whoosh' moment for me. (straight over my head). I think the R stamp is for REAR like you both said. I confirm, there's no L/R option.

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Found something interesting while looking, maybe for AC/RC owners at least. The entire rear diff housing, from axle to axle, is still available. Looks like it's around $

1,200-$1,300. 4211034152

Strangely, this is the parts description:

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