HELP- 2000 tundra no crank no start

UPDATE--- new hypothesis

ok so i replaced the starter and put in an oem starter relay... old starter was ok when tested but sounded like shit... think i pinched a wire going to the spark system on cylinder one when putting the manifold back on so i have to fix that as i have a dead miss rn...

HYPOTHESIS
I tested it out friday... i noticed it will start no issue everytime between the hours of 11am and 4pm
im wondering if when i had my alarm put in if they did something stupid and for some reason outside of that window the relay is being blocked from sending power...

that would answer to why it clicks every time and why i can jump the relay and send direct power and it starts every time... idk tho could be a long shot

thoughts?

 

When my 2000 did this, I replaced the plunger and copper contacts in the starter solenoid. The starter motors are nearly bullet proof. Regarding the miss, is it throwing any codes or a CEL?

 

yeah its throwing out a code i didnt write it down but its just a dead miss on cylinder 1... said i should replace ignition coil, did that and plug and its still not firing

 

Take a pic of the wire you pinched

 

cant find it yet thats just what im assuming... gonna run a volt meter to the coil clip and see if its getting power

 

#1 is front left bank (driver side)

 

yeah if ur at the front of the car, its the one on the drivers side closest to the front of the car

 

Non-OEM (3rd party) alarms normally have lifespan of 10-15 years. They cause all kinds of stupid issues when they start dying. If you have one, that would absolutely explain your issues, but normally people open up with that first, since it ties into the starter circuit/ignition, so I didn't consider it as a possibility

Once installed alarms for a living. All kinds of fun stuff can start happening after 8-10 years

 

brand new alarm tho like 2-3 months old

 

My ass would be taking it back to the place that installed it. It's not a coincidence these two things are happening in close proximity to one another.

 

agreed, im going in tuesday so ill keep yall updated

 

UPDATEEEEE

OK yall i think i finally solved it... i had the alarm place check through all their wiring (as its only 3 months old)
they said it all looked fine and nothing was even remotely wired to the starter...

had my other pair of keys shipped to me and taking a look at them (they look VERY similar) i realized i was using the cut at store key

swapped the keys and it started right up at a time it usually wouldnt...

gonna sanity test this theory again over the weekend and if i dont have any issues ill update yall and mark this as fixed...

I THANK ALL OF YALL FOR THE HELP AND GUIDANCE
im a young buck and still fairly new to maintenance on cars.

hope all of you enjoy the holidays and stay safe.

 

Don't forget earlier comment about getting new key cut at dealership based on VIN. It's not that expensive.

 

copy that... new issues have raised

we now have misfire in cylinder 1 and 2... shot wires and changed plugs coils and injectors... didnt work and then the fuel pump stopped turning on so its just cranking and not starting, wondering if its the crankshaft position sensor

idk this had been a pain in the butt but im determined to get it back to running smooth

 

I want to say this is bad ground/bad power. i.e. corrosion inside the cables, loose ground.

But with the new misfires (i.e. moving target, fleeting symptoms), I can't help but think about this situation.

After what @Brynden29 went through over in that marathon thread ... dunno.

 

UPDATE- PROBLEM SOLVED

Hey everyone. I have finally fixed the problem.
After tearing through everything and replacing everything, It ended up being my crankshaft position sensor. That was originally causing the no start half the time, then led to the misfire, then to the crank no start.

Replaced it today, fired right up strong and healthy. No misfire! Everything is working fine and running strong.

Hopefully if anyone else is having this issue it is something simple like this and you can fix it a lot easier.

Thank you all for your help!

 

I'm skeptical. Crank position sensor is 100% required for the fuel pump to continue engaging. I have yet to hear about it failing to allow the starter to engage. It's something I normally tell people to check with weirdness after timing belt change, or in crank-but-no-start situations.

Keep us posted.

 

Im sure the starter was going bad too tbh but i will continue to test it out over the next few days and see if anything comes up and keep u guys updated

 

UPDATE

It has been over a month. I have had zero issues what so ever. Starts every time, feels and sounds healthy...

Hopefully this thread can help someone in the same position.

----ORIGINAL ISSUE/Steps taken to fix

Truck would start 50% of the time.
Certain hours would start right away and others it wouldnt start at all
I could jump the relay with a wire to start it if key didnt work
Changed relay (no fix)
Changed starter (no fix?) not sure if it fixed it... heres why
After starter change had "random misfire" code and "cyl 1 and 2 misfire"
changed plugs, coils, and injectors... truck wouldnt turn over anymore
Would only crank
Changed crank position sensor... Fixed misfire and crank no start.
No issues since


----WHAT I DID TO FIX (Cheapest to most expensive solutions to test)

Main starter relay (fuse box under hood) $40ish
Starter (Pain in the ass to fix) $200 ish
crankshaft position sensor (bottom of engine behind "skid plate") $250ish


Hope this helped and thank you to everyone that helped me.