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My super easy, ~$500 sound system upgrade

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by thuetten, Nov 30, 2022.

  1. Nov 30, 2022 at 7:46 PM
    #1
    thuetten

    thuetten [OP] New Member

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    It took me a lot of time surfing forums and getting advice before I finally settled and upgraded my stock sound system in my 2021 Tundra, so I figured I'd make a post on what I did in case anyone in the future runs across it.

    I have a CrewMax, non-JBL system with the factory amp under the passenger seat. I did not want to replace my head unit, and there's not much space under the back seat for a sub. I found a Kicker Hideaway 8" sub / amp combo that fits under my drivers seat, and a Kicker KTP-445U power pack amplifier in place of the factory amp for the speakers. The power pack can run off of the power supplied to the factory amp, so there's no need to run a new power cord to it. It's literally as easy as connecting the inputs from the factory amp harness to the power pack, and the outputs to the output wires in the other factory amp harness. I replaced my front speakers with a component system, and hid the crossovers in the bottom kick panel. The Hideaway amp/sub combo splices into the speaker wires in the factory amp harness as well, and has a power cable that runs to the battery. Total install time was maybe 3 hours!

    Lessons learned:

    You probably have a factory amp, even if you think you don't.

    There's no good sub box except for super expensive custom built ones. You can build your own, but there still isn't much space to put it.

    Crutchfield is wrong when they tell you to wire your component system to the tweeter. The tweeters and middle speakers are wired together, directly from the head unit. The mid speakers in the doors go through the amp.

    Feel free to let me know if you run across this and have any questions!
     
  2. Nov 30, 2022 at 7:57 PM
    #2
    Dawoofles

    Dawoofles New Member

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    TRD rear sway bar, SS3 Max Amber Fog Lights, Carthartt Seat Covers, Morimoto LED interior lights, Driver Side Grab Handle, Husky Floor Liners, Weathertech full SunShade, Cat Back Stainless Works Dual Exhaust, OEM metal Oil Canister, Bed Mat, Deck Rail System, OCD Center Console, Full RCI skid Plates(Engine,Transmission, Cat Guard, and fuel tank)
    All car audio is expensive. Tear it all out and build it back the way you like it.
     
  3. Dec 1, 2022 at 12:08 PM
    #3
    dlos

    dlos Truckin'

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    Mods Mods Mods....
    I went this route, tore it all out, replacing with better quality stuff. BUT, I have no idea what I am doing. Got the head unit in just fine, added a subwoofer no problem (just a single under back seat). The improvement was huge but still didn't sound as good as it could and with the expense and effort of adding the new HU and sub, it seemed worthwhile to go ahead and add new speakers along with a new, more powerful amp driving them.

    And that's where it all went off the rails. Everything is in, but it sounds like total crap. Static, hissing, noise coming from rear speakers and all tweeters. I'm told that although the from door speakers sound fine that that noise is in them too. So I can install and figure some stuff out, but when it's like it is now, I have no idea what to look for. Have chased numerous things down, no luck.

    So my Tundra sits in the garage, torn to pieces, and I have no idea what the next steps are to getting it fixed. I am going to start calling local install shops to see if any of them will even take a look at it....sucks....

    Was NOT trying to avoid the installers and high costs there, just wanting to expand on the DIY front.....
     
    Dawoofles[QUOTED] likes this.
  4. Dec 1, 2022 at 12:17 PM
    #4
    Justbass

    Justbass New Member

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    TRD Sway bar, Lomax Tonnueau cover, Bed rug, Havoc HS2 Steps, Tech 12 Volts stereo upgrade, Yakima bed extender, misc trim and bling,
    And this is why I worked with tech 12 volts to get a kit. Had fun installing and knew it would work when I was done. Local audio shop wanted 6k, the 12 volts kit cost 1100 and time.

    Sorry to hear the challenges you are having...
     
  5. Dec 1, 2022 at 12:18 PM
    #5
    M3Tundra-JK

    M3Tundra-JK New Member

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    a few things. Check all the grounds and make sure they are actually grounded properly. Number 1 issue with custom sound systems. Also, do not run the power wires and speaker wires along the same routes. Can get cross talk from power signals.

    Also make sure you're gain is set correctly, requires an amp meter
     
  6. Dec 1, 2022 at 12:20 PM
    #6
    War Machine

    War Machine SSEM # 5 3MW

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    Same, but wasn’t a ton of fun.
     
  7. Dec 1, 2022 at 12:20 PM
    #7
    Dawoofles

    Dawoofles New Member

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    TRD rear sway bar, SS3 Max Amber Fog Lights, Carthartt Seat Covers, Morimoto LED interior lights, Driver Side Grab Handle, Husky Floor Liners, Weathertech full SunShade, Cat Back Stainless Works Dual Exhaust, OEM metal Oil Canister, Bed Mat, Deck Rail System, OCD Center Console, Full RCI skid Plates(Engine,Transmission, Cat Guard, and fuel tank)
    Same for me. Thought I could tackle the sound dampening. Watched a few YouTube videos on removing the rear carpet. Got it all taken out to bare metal and now it rattles like crazy with nothing in the back. Waiting for it to warm up or get more funds to get it done.
     
  8. Dec 1, 2022 at 12:20 PM
    #8
    dlos

    dlos Truckin'

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    Mods Mods Mods....
    I tried getting in touch with Tech12 for some time, never was able to and finally just gave up. I read on here all the time how easy it is to work with them etc., sucks it didn't pan out for me. Hoping I can get it sorted out eventually.
     
  9. Dec 1, 2022 at 12:21 PM
    #9
    M3Tundra-JK

    M3Tundra-JK New Member

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    the owner had a stroke during this last year, so I'm sure that had a lot to do with it. But he did return my emails at the time
     
  10. Dec 1, 2022 at 12:23 PM
    #10
    dlos

    dlos Truckin'

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    Mods Mods Mods....
    The power and speaker wire runs are the next things to really dig into. I re-used much of the stock wiring to speakers, might just make all new runs. Checking grounds is also something I will go back and look at again, feel like it is ok, but who knows. Also need to be sure that the power runs and speaker wiring (RCAs) are not in the same run. It was all fine with new HU and sub with the factory speakers so I feel like the issue has to do with something related to the stock speaker setup.

    I did not have any sort of adapter to use on the factory amp connections, so that's all been spliced up and re-worked, which may also be causing problems. Appreciate the advice!
     
    M3Tundra-JK[QUOTED] likes this.
  11. Dec 1, 2022 at 12:25 PM
    #11
    Black@Blue19

    Black@Blue19 Old Salt

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    To much to list:)
    Be very careful on these next steps as just not everyone can work on a Tundra stereo system!!,,, it is a different animal.
     
  12. Dec 1, 2022 at 12:25 PM
    #12
    dlos

    dlos Truckin'

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    Oh man, hate to hear that. I hold no ill will there, and really wish it'd have worked out, I'd be in a much better place right now. Hope he's doing well now!
     
    M3Tundra-JK[QUOTED] likes this.
  13. Dec 1, 2022 at 12:26 PM
    #13
    dlos

    dlos Truckin'

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    Yes, this is what I am learning - that the Tundra systems are different animals.....this is really my first foray into car audio, guess I chose the wrong place to start....oh well....
     
  14. Dec 3, 2022 at 9:31 PM
    #14
    jimg

    jimg New Member

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    Dlos


    I am in the middle of working on my tundra and it started out like crap also

    I am working on it and here is what you should look at

    My system
    Head unit. Jvc z1000w
    Amp1. Sony xmgs4.
    Amp 2. Sony xmg100

    Speakers. Silverflute. 6 5 inch in the door
    Focal tweeters in the sail panel

    I ran all new speaker wires to each speaker location

    1st issue I had. The jvc also along with the idatalink puts in a preset eq and crossover setting
    Had to work this out

    2nd issue. The tundra has bad cancelation issues and time alignment issues

    When moved my head 18 inches down and to the right the system more on axis it came alive

    3. Check and make sure the speaker polarity is correct


    I am still working on my system currently
    I am going to move my tweeters to the factory dash locations and have some kick panels coming to do a 3 way active upfront

    If you know wiring and electrical is correct then
    Play with speaker placement and tuning


    Keep posting your results on here and I will keep mine updated also. Should be able to get it working
     
  15. Dec 3, 2022 at 9:38 PM
    #15
    jimg

    jimg New Member

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    Don't get discouraged. It is just car audio

    Take yout time and just make good connections

    Check your wiring

    I had an issue with one of my rca cables that was making my driver tweeter cutting out
    Had to take the radio out and rerun one
     
  16. Dec 3, 2022 at 9:51 PM
    #16
    jimg

    jimg New Member

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    I will never go to a local car stereo place

    They just don't do it correctly on a budget build , they take to many short cuts
     
  17. Dec 3, 2022 at 9:57 PM
    #17
    jimg

    jimg New Member

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    Pm me with any questions
     
  18. Dec 3, 2022 at 10:13 PM
    #18
    jimg

    jimg New Member

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    I have zero static or noise issues


    Alot if times this will come for bad power or ground issues

    1. I ran a larger gauge wire from the fuse block for the power and accessorie wire direct to the head unit. I bypass the wiring harness. Most times the factory harness wire is a small gauge


    2. Also run a new ground wire direct to the head unit
    Bypass the small gauge ground wire on the factory harness
     
    Mike59 likes this.

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