1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

The ethnic groups living in the nearby citites who lower their vehicles can’t afford them although it’s amazing how they spend more on wheels than their 20+ year old civics and accords are worth.

 

Titans strong enough i could set the tundra on the bedrails.

 

Do the older Titans have rust issues in the salt/snow belt? I don’t see many older ones around here.

 

Probably, the paint and tin is thin, the door cables froze when dad lived near memphis. Mine has lived a sheltered easy life. Most arent as lucky.

its what you'd expect from the versa side of nissan, not the patrol side of nissan.

 

We have plenty riDONKulous squatted Tundras in SC

 

I've always heard it called the carolina squat, but in houston, i think those folks are paying tribute to the cajun navy that showed up after harvey with boats, beer, and food.

my buddies 12" lifted sierra burned through a diff and tcase hauling supplies through flood water.

 

Man am I missing something? I've never spent more than $100 for a sub. The shit rumbles just fine. What do you gain with that price other than maybe longevity? It just seems to me that all the sub needs to do is make bass which doesn't seem to need to be high "fidelity" or whatever. The Sony subs in my daily came from craigslist in a box for $45 I got them in 2016. Amp is cheap Boss amp that's at least that old. It rattles my trunk good. Wouldn't want to make anymore bass I think my car would rattle apart. Kinda legitimately asking here.

$90 Audio controls LC2i 2 Channel Line Out Converter with AccuBASS and Subwoofer Control

Audio controls LC2i works great for integrating to factory systems. Used that on my girlfriend's Corolla. That's the one thing I got that cost a decent bit (comparatively) so I could have the Accubass.

 

JL W3s, W6s, W7s are the epitome of hammer-your-brains-out. Not only can they each directly eat that 1000w he plans on stuffing into them, they could handle even more (despite having a max ~600W per JL spec). I can't tell you how many competitions have been won with JL's W-series.

You're basically paying for crazy power, killer handling under load, wild longevity after thousands of hours of abuse if wired right.

 

We need more @NickB_01TRD here. Dudes fixing 96 Camry transmissions with fluid swaps, Bumping a better system than most for $45 bucks. Feel like you and @Mr.bee need to go joint venture on his front bumper build. Got my T flowing, need to go grab the old lady and show her the 50 states.

 

Lol. I wanna build a grumper, double thick with tannerite contact pads.

 

I mean I have full understanding that not everyone is the same and they can spend their money how they please. Maybe I'm the one missing out and I don't even know it. I'm not saying @bmf4069 is stupid for wanting a $1000 sub setup. Just trying to understand if its $800 better than a $200 setup. Maybe he wants to give it to his grandkids one day idk lol.

I think I got lucky on the Camry. The fluid swap didn't work for 2 weeks. I was about to buy a trans then poof shifts fine.

I'm not a fabricator I don't think I should have any say in whatever "grumper" @Mr.bee is trying to create.

 

Some shit broke loose. Imagine if you'd have sold it and the next person scored.

 

@NickB_01TRD, if purchasing a pre built box then whatever sub you like is fine, maybe pick the best sub for the box or something along those lines.

If designing a box to meet a specific space in a vehicle, and spending for a custom enclosure or building one yourself, the marginal extra cost of a premium sub isn’t as big of a concern and ensures that custom enclosure investment makes sense.

But, mostly, I buy because I like the company. High quality parts and reasonable prices. Well, the vx amps may be somewhat spendy. But it’s a lot of tech in a small enclosure.

 

I was gonna put a trans in it at that point. Really glad I didn't. The fluid was kinda like brown water when it came out. Idk how it ever worked. It's still pretty dark now but I'm not touching it till it acts up again. At 466k miles it's only worth doing so much to.

 

Nickb is on point. I aint paying rhe bills, but noise is noise. You want a studio or whatever you can listen to perfect songs or whatever, but its just noise. If you're not happy with 2uz loud pipes swap in a 1uz or ls and take it to 7500.

but i dont blow my ears out. My phone is almost never over 50% volume, and with my dumb as fuck wireless headphones i hover in the 10-20% range. Like i can still hear my steps.

been this way since limewire and getting bunk ass quality music i wasnt paying for. Shits just noise.

 

quality subwoofers aren’t only about spl. Lack of distortion at high volume is another key distinction. Sort of like wine, yeah? I can’t tell much of a difference between a $20 bottle and a $200 bottle but I’m sure if I spent time learning and refining my taste I could.

 

Loud music was ruined for me in '98. My moms z/28 had t-tops and an speed sensitive volume control, so in the summer, tops off, it was unbearably loud in the back seat, and no amount of music was going to appease that. All my friends and family that live that loud lifestyle are crazy deaf. I took ASL, but italian gestures usually seem to work better. I loosely wear earplugs and a headsock inside my helmet to tone the wind down.

My buddy that runs the home automation buisness, way back in the day had a lexan windowed stripped caged integra that on weekdays or whatever (i helped with the rattles), but he'd put in a box with 3 18's and play rattlers.

 

Personally I’d never spend a lot for a sound system in a vehicle unless I’m trying to find a small quality speaker with good mid-bass to fit in a tight spot due to lack of space. I’m also not going to be able to tell the difference between 1% THD and 0.1% THD in such a poor environment. I haven’t tried dynamat but I imagine you can only do so much to keep a vehicle from vibrating when your trying to avoid it. Just my two cents.

 

I either want the first or last. I trust welds more than castings.

 

Enter the class D amp and 6.75 Kicker. We are on the same page…

 

you assume the N package was certified when the model was being certified. They may well have only certified a base model. Potentially same engine without some N software. Theoretically they need to certify every engine management variation, but who would go to that expense? Part of certifying would be crash testing as well as emissions & noise testing. That's a lot of cars to crash & a lot of cash to pay for all those tests.

Just replace the muffler with something more muffly, pass the test, replace the stock muffler, don't use N on the street anymore.
Let Hyundai pay for the muffleage & sign a non-disclosure to keep them happy & willing to bring the cash.
Or spend 100k & endless time taking it to the CA supreme court.

 

is that a propane bottle sitting unprotected & proud on the roof?

 

one of the rare ARDNUT edition.

 

I won't make a dedicated thread for this as they don't support the tundra as of now but totalchaosfabrication just released a uniball lower ball joint for the 1st gen tacoma/3rd gen 4runner. I thought uniball stuff needed really periodic lubrication but I see that as the biggest downside.
About $1000

(Hopfully this Instagram post shows up for everyone)

https://www.instagram.com/reel/ClCCA4jja_K/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

https://www.chaosfab.com/product/1996-2004-Toyota-Tacoma-Lower-Uniball-Conversion-OE-Tie-Rod

Only one I can think of offhand that has a 1st gen Tacoma (or few) is @empty_lord

 

You saw that too. Yeah, dunno the story behind it!

 

Yea I’ve been talking to them

 

Jesus, is that a minivan or the back of a hearse?!

 

Shifty and Dave nailed it. It's the difference between getting 5100s or going icons. The 5100s will lift ya, but the icons do it so much better and take more abuse.

For me, I've always wanted some big boom, but never had the chance. My best setup is probably the 2 10w0s ($100 a piece) with 250w going to them. I did have an alpine 12" R something with 500w going to it in a 1.75 ft³ box. It did pretty good too. But now that both my older kids can drive, I no longer need a back seat. Those 2 13s will need a 4.5 ft³ box. With 1000w pushing them I'm guessing it'll get around 120dB or so. My 2 10s in my old work van got around 110dB give or take. Granted, that was measured off my phone with an app so I doubt it was accurate.

 

It would look that way to an AC driver