What have you done to your 2nd gen Tundra today?

Had a very productive week with the Tundra:
Got a full-size spare under the truck
Wheels/Tires Balanced
Tire Rotation - Drove away from Discount Tire and found loose lug nuts....not fun
Found a smoking deal on Weathertech Floormats front & rear for $65.00
Installed a new TRD Intake Flow Accelerator - Genuinely thought this might be BS...there is a noticeable difference in throttle response
Washed & Cleaned the Tundra inside & out - this was like therapy for me. I love backcountry adventures but equally love a clean vehicle

 

The Weathertechs are great except that the passenger side front liner doesn't stay in place. It gets pushed forward and deformed so it doesn't work well.
Add these anti-slip retainers to the passenger side to fix the issue. You don't have to cut the carpet and the retainer has an o-ring seal to keep water from getting through the hole you punch in the weathertech.
Eagle Klaw - Floor Mat Clips Set of Anti-Slip Fixing Retainers for Car Mats - Made in USA - Grey - Pack of 4 for 2 Mats + 3/8" Cutter

$21 Eagle Klaw - Floor Mat Clips Set of Anti-Slip Fixing Retainers for Car Mats - Made in USA - Grey - Pack of 4 for 2 Mats + 3/8" Cutter

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WV8K5CG

 

Just ordered these up for my passenger side floor mat. Hoping it works!

 

I put these in my truck back in 2018 and its probably the best cheap mod ive ever done

 

Added (or mostly added) a Rough Country 3.5"front 2" rear lift kit. 3 out of the 4 bump stops snapped when pulling them so need to weld those with the spacers back in. And all four nuts in the frame snapped loose when trying to drop the sway bar so trying to figure out how to fix those so I can put the sway bar back on with the drop brackets. Hoping I don't need to figure out how to pull the front bumper to get into that cavity of the frame but it's looking more like that's the solution. 2020 factory 20" wheels going on as soon as I figure out the sway bar garbage.

 

Dropped it off at the shop

 

I previously wired this plunger switch behind the brake light to turn on LED bed lights when I opened the tailgate:



Problem was the lights stayed on forever. Driving at night with the tailgate down (which I often do carrying a kayak) and it was way too bright for other drivers and weird that the contents of my bed were illuminated like the counter at a jewelry store.

Anyway, I found this switch:

$14 APIELE Interior Lights Switch, ON Off SPST Rocker Toggle Switch Stainless Steel 10A 12V 24VDC Pre-Wired 19MM 0.74" Install Sizefor Car Boat Truck (Interior Lights)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09BJ5LKFD?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I wired the switch's negative wire to the plunger, and then wired the positive wires to the battery and lights. Now when the switch is pushed in and the tailgate is down, the lights and the switch are on. Or I can push the switch and it's all off even when the tailgate is down.




It's all very neat from the outside. Here's the wiring inside the driver's side rear brake:



I butchered it on the inside, though, because I had to cut a hole to pass through the wires and I didn't anticipate how much room I needed so I started with a nice neat hole and just kept expanding it with a Dremel and pliers and hopefully nobody who knows me will ever know my secret shame.

 

Good, because it really bothers me seeing how far it gets pushed up after one person sits in it lol.

Like to the point its probably the least favorite thing ive had to deal with in any car

 

Installed a Kenwood DMX957XR with the Maestro RR. Much better than my previous Sony unit. Has some pretty cool features

 

how do you like the Maestro ? easy install ?

 

It wasn’t too bad, plus I had Crutchfield pre-wire the harness. You have to download your vehicles info in to the Maestro unit. I like the fact that I can see my tire pressure and temp, even the spare

 

Took mine in today and had the front and rear differential fluids changed , transfer case fluid changed, did a drain and fill on the tranny with the idea that in another 20k I'll have it done again until all of it is changed out etc etc. and lastly had new plugs put it. It was running fine but i was unsure what had been done at the last maintenance interval so I'm playing catch up. I should be good to go now....

 

I lost the ability to see tpms info after a day. There is a thread here about needing to solder a 2k ohms resistor to get the info to display again.

 

I guess I’ll have to wait and see. Hopefully they corrected the problem

 

I had a Kenwood DNX996XR and Maestro RR put in my 2011 SR5 in Feb 2020, and I love it.

Wireless CarPlay and Android Auto, steering wheel controls, OBD read outs, and great sound. All the other features are nice luxuries too.

 

Starting to have issues after a few days. It shuts off and turns back on by itself after it’s on after an hour. I’ll have to call Crutchfield tomorrow morning and speak to one of their techs.

 

Did oil change spark plugs and brakes over veterans day weekend. It seems so much more quieter now... lol

 

Mine will do that infrequently. (Maybe once every 2-3 months). Just a does a quick reboot, then it is fine, and it likely won’t do it again for a month or two.

When I first had it put in, it would reboot about once per week. I updated the firmware, and it has been fine ever since, with only the aforementioned infrequent rebooting.

I’ve had to flash my Maestro RR earlier this year. I lost the TPMS data, then when I looked at the gauge feature, and there was no data there either. I flashed the unit, and everything was fine. As an afterthought, the next time that I have that part of the dash apart, I am going to run a USB cable from the unit and have it coiled up in the glovebox so I don’t have to yank all of that out just to flash the RR unit (which takes minutes to flash).

 

Thanks for the reply. My TPMS info on my homepage disappeared as well right after the reboot, but when I scrolled to just the TPMS only info page it came right back. That’s a good tip on the USB to Maestro idea. I really like the unit, except for the shutdown. I’ll look at updating the firmware this afternoon

 

I checked and I have the most recent Firmware on my HU. I called Crutchfield and they walked me through resetting the Maestro. Hopefully that will solve the problem.

 

Grew up Finally got around to swapping back in a stock intake (with a K&N filter) for the K&N CAI the truck came with. Not gonna lie, I'll miss the roar you get from a CAI, but the dogs were not fans and it was noisier overall than I'd like at this stage of my life. Of course, as per the usual it seems like lately, I snapped two bolts that were severely rusted and compromised while doing the swap. I had to drill one out, as it was holding the engine ground strap (does anyone know if that one is actually that important? Seemed kind of random). The second one was the bolt for the back side of the filter box, so for now it's only got one bolt holding it in. I'll have to replace it when I have time...but I'll also need to figure out a way to get it out. Complete job and destroyed bolt pics for fun. Managed to wreck three drill bits in the process. One of the pics is the bolt piece, still in the hole, with TWO holes drilled in it

 

Dont forget to clean out the throttle body and MAF while your there

 

If you are using wireless CarPlay/Android auto, you might make sure that your device is up to the latest OS version or update. (Caveat: I don’t usually install the first version of a major update. If I can, I wait until at least the first .1 update. iOS 15.0 saw my headunit constantly lose bluetooth connectivity with my phone, it affected the sound quality of any music played from the phone to the headunit, and would it reboot about every 15-20 minutes. That lasted 2 days until I saw the update for 15.1 came out, and once I installed that, all of that stopped. I am currently running an iPhone 11 with iOS 16.1.1, and it all has been running fine with no connectivity or stability issues. YMMV. I’m not happy that the time slider on the Music app seems to have disappeared on the device, but that is another subject……).

If nothing else works, I’d recommend they send you a new HU. Maybe you got a faulty one that sneaked by QC.

 

Joined the dirty 7s club today. Kind of

 

Let’s see the clearance up front when you get time

 

Interstate batteries are always a good choice.

 

Costco has the best price on interstate batteries. Along with the best warranty on them

 

I just updated to the newest version 16 about a week ago. I usually wait on major updates as well. My phone is an 11 Pro. According to Crutchfield it sounds more like the Maestro unit. I have 60 days, so if it happens again they will replace it, but it has been documented. Time will tell if it does it again.

 

She's in the shop for some fab work atm and I don't have wheels yet.