What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Spray some white lithium into the side latches. That makes it open like butter.

Yeah, aren't those the same ones from the other side?

If you look forward from that angle you should see the backside of the front bolts.

Lug nut sockets are made in that size for the rust belt.

 

Yea I thought I sent those pics yesterday. The front and back.

 

My bad, here's front.

 

Yeah. I'm thinking unless your frame is fubar the wheels slipped when he did the caster swing.

 

After doing some research on Lexus fill/drain plugs using the same fill/drain plug gaskets we use for the front differential, I decide to call around to see who had the following items in stock:

Lexus fill plug part no. 90341-18060
Lexus/Toyota fill plug gasket part no.

$15 12157-10010 Toyota Oil Drain Plug Crushable Steel Gaskets Set of 10 OEM 12157-10010

12157-10010

Lexus drain plug part no. 90341-24016
Lexus/Toyota drain plug gasket part no. 90430-24017

Unfortunately, all of them seem to close around 4 pm today.

 

I bet Gerald understood that reference.

 

Does anyone recall if there are gaskets required for the fill and drain plugs on the transfer case and rear differential?

I know there are for the front differential. I just can’t recall if they exist for the others. Common sense would say yes, IMO.

 

Yes to both. I bought this,

$6 Differential and Transmission Drain Plug Crush Washers Gaskets Compatible with 4Runner T acoma T undra FJ Cruiser Land Cruiser, Replacement for The Part# 12157-10010 90430-24003 90430-18008

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DFJ24WD?ie=UTF8

but the description says 2x 12157-10010 for the rear diff and 2x 90430-18008 for the t-case are the OEM part numbers.

 

Thanks @des2mtn!

 

used it to go pick up my deeply discounted frame swap parts for the 1998.

replacement kits, brake lines, leaf springs, upper arms, lower arms, ball joints, body mounts, front springs, shock mounts, etc. i wasnt going to do all this.. but my boy hooked me up for helping him with his sisters car. total cost to me was... pennies compared to list.. and most of the expensive stuff isnt here yet. be trickling in over the week.. just need to order new 4600s and wait for the frame. then the 1998 will rock again.

 

The frame is good. Never had the Caster issue until i installed the lift. I really doubt the tech slipped on the Caster swing. These guys are the best in my area hands down. Maybe even best in the county.

 

Rear diff yes. Both fill and drain.

 

Popped on my >$300 NFab bars. She's about to get a bath so just this pic for now..
The wife is happy so all is good in the world!

 

Cleaned up a bit (need to hit the mirror arms with a little flat black paint), good shot of the nfab.



Thoughts on the bars?

Oh, I'll hit 77k tomorrow as I'm driving it to work before covering it up under the pole barn.

 

The slip would happen due to the vehicle brakes not being held with enough pressure. This could be simply the pedal depressor not pushed hard enough, it being jostled when removing the steering wheel lock for turning the steering wheel, a slow bypass in the brake master cylinder, a leaking caliper/wheel cylinder, brake line, etc. Many reasons it could happen.

2 3/4° different left and right is a huge amount. Most specs call for 1/2° split. If it's driving fine I'm leaning towards an unintended slip of the front brakes when doing a wheel sweep to measure caster.



What's the wheel gap between the tire and rear of the fender like on both sides?

 

Dang: I stumbled on this a week to late. When you open the door, how many inches from the bottom of the door to the top of the step?

 

I have the 2 step version. They get slippery in the rain and will give you a nice bruise on your shin when you slip.

They also rust quick. I'm on my 3rd warranty set but I'm guessing being in Georgia that won't be too big of an issue for you.

 

I remember you sharing your issues / thoughts on these and if not for the great price I wouldn't have moved forward. I'm hoping rust won't be an issue but I did register the purchase for the warranty.

 

pole barn got a paved/concrete floor? Parking covered over dirt super accelerates rust.

 

No concrete but it still looks clean underneath. I thought gravel may be better but it may be just as bad...
I haven't considered this before but parking on the driveway isn't an option. Guess I have some figuring out to do.

Thanks for the heads up!

 

Your Northern minds immediately go to rust.

I really doubt @abcinv is going to have any issues.

 

Even down south you guys have moist in the ground.

@abcinv lay a thick sheet of plastic on the ground, park on that. It'll stop the damp rising under the truck. Should be good.

 

I've got some staples and a huge tarp that I can lay down. It'll drive the wife crazy; maybe she'll be more on board with me pouring concrete under there..

 

way to tight. But, since you can get to those ones, not a big deal to run a flange nut or something, just slower on/off.

 

I have the same set. You got a great price. Iirc I was closer to 500 when I bought mine. They are useful for the bed as long as you don't grab the bedside to pull yourself up. I think I read the box sides are sorta weak. I go step->tire ->in the box.
Maybe spray some FF in the tube as they are new?

I was gonna mention this. Glad I'm not the only one warranting these out every 6 mos to a year. I wash more than average in general and in winter also just to keep the crud off. Doesn't seem to matter.

 

This was my 10,000th post.

 

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Dammit, I should've jumped on those while the price was low. They do look good.

 

I ordered the same gasket kit as @des2mtn, worked great! Still gotta get the front diff drained and filled though. Had to get my skidrow skids off first to access the plugs. Do you guys use an impact on the hex bolts or just a breaker bar for those? Thanks!