Heated seat install wiring question

I’m installing heated seats on my 2016 Tundra, I’ve heard people splicing into the power outlets instead of running power from the fuse box. Has any done this and if so, did you have any problems with this setup?
Also looking for best place to wire the switches.
Thanks!

 

I did seat heat for the back seat and spliced the wire to the rear power outlet. Works good so far.

 

Thanks, I had heard it has been done, but wasn’t sure if it caused any problems.

 

Im pretty sure it gets enough power. It can’t take as much power as some of things you can plug in to the socket. That one rarely gets used too. Maybe plug yours in to the one in the console if you don’t use it much.

 

I've installed quite a few seat heaters using power outlet. I separate driver and passenger side with separate fuses, never had a problem.
Really don't want to go off constant power from fuse box in case you forget to turn them off.

 

I used the power outlets, everything works great so far! thanks for the help!!

 

Is there a write up for the back seats?

 

I didn’t but I can give more details tomorrow and take some pics.

 

Sweet, that be great!

 

Thank you guys!
@timsp8 i wired mine off the fuse box and I hate having to check them after my kids ride. Please post!!

Thanks OP for asking!

 

I ran mine off the 12v power outlet.
Been fine for 3 years..
Each side has it's own inline fuse.



I found since installing my Katzkins it takes longer to heat up than the thin factory Limited leather.

 

Hey, lowlife! That looks sharp. That’s the kit I have in my back seat. My front kit has a single button with separate controls for each side.

You spliced into the 12v power... do you have a pic of how you spliced in? I’d love to do the same and get my add-a-fuse out of the fuse block. I hardly use the 12v socket in the console, so I’d probably tap into that.

 

I don't have a pic.
I'd have to take my console apart to take one.

Pretty sure I just tapped into the line that goes to the 12volt plug in the console and the rear of the console.
Split that lead into the two front seat sides.
I can take a pic this weekend if you need me to..

 

I went to the fuse box under the dash. There is an accessory slot labeled for seat heaters. the kit I bought draws 12 amps or so at full power with both heaters at high. I'm not really versed in electrical so I didn't want to run the risk of blowing the fuses when using high amp accessories like an inverter or my air compressor. As all have stated Im sure youll be okay.

 

You can use a relay tapped into an accessory wire and still use your constant power. The relay will only feed power when they key is on.

 

Here’s a few pics and description. I didn’t take pictures while I was doing it, but it’s not that hard. Worst part for me was getting the seats back in with the esp storage box.

Take the seats out with the 4 bolts each. Remember, one is threaded differently. Carry them inside so you can watch football while doing it.

Pull off the plastic piece on the side that covers the device that raises the seats. One of the straps loops around it.



Remove the straps that hold the leather. They are like elastic bands. They just loop around parts of the seat.

I only did the back because I didn’t want to fully remove the leather. I was able to easily push the heat pad up by only removing the bottom straps. I pushed it all the way up to the stitching. For the butt part, the stitching was too close to push the pad in very far. I can go back later if I feel like taking the leather off.



I ran the wire under the carpet near the hump. I already had it pulled up because I was running other wires for an inverter and cell booster, but it’s not hard to pull up. Just a few clips under the door kick panel and remove the seat belt bolt and rear panel.



Take the rear of the console off. It’s all 1 piece and slides up and back. 4 clips hold it in. I tapped in to the outlet power and used a box cutter to cut the hole out for the switch. You can see I slipped with the box cutter and cut the plastic some.



I was doing a lot of stuff at once so I might not remember everything exactly, but once you get the seats out it’s pretty easy to do.

It’s in the back so I can’t see if it’s off, but I’ve told the kids to make sure it’s off when they get out. I can reach back too and move the switches up to turn it off. They say it works good, even without the butt piece.

I ordered it off Amazon. I just looked for it and the page from my order won’t come up. I guess they don’t sell it anymore. It was definitely Chinese as the instructions were broken English. This is about the same. I think the only difference between the ones on Amazon is the switch. I wanted 2 in 1 type switch.

https://www.amazon.com/WATERCARBON-...it&qid=1607638693&sprefix=watercarbin&sr=8-11

 

Tundy, they discontinued that slot in 2016 or 2017... definitely does not exist on 2018’s.

 

Gotcha. Yeah I have a 2016. Thanks for the info.

 

I’m looking into doing this just ordered the kit. To wire I’ll use red power wire from kit to power wire from cig outlet and ground to any ground? Also what size drill bit for the circular heat switch? Says 20mm but can’t seem to find drill but that size.

 

Are you talking about these switches? I just used a step drill bit until the hole was big enough. multiple tests too.

Also not my picture. Just a googled one.

 

those are the ones, thanks!

 

yep we just step drilled it. step drill bit was slightly too small so we ended up snipping those tabs on the side just enough to force them in the hole nice and snug. Also, used the power from the 12 volt in the arm rest.

 

Thanks for the advice. I’m planning on putting the switches on the silver trim around the head unit. I know I will have to do some good amount of disassembly. My project for next weekend while the wife is out of town.

 

Here is where I put mine. They are out of the way and easy to route.

 

I almost went your route after seeing it a few months back. I ended up going on the flat spots the sides. I do like the sleek look your version is though

 

I like this spot too. Definitely have some thinking to do

 

I went this route. I like the hidden look but more functional to me to have them up top. Ignore the dirt. I have a 7 month old lol

 

$29 STROTON 4-32mm Metric 5% Cobalt Step Drill Bit for Stainless Steel and Hard Metal (15 Steps)

https://www.amazon.com/STROTON-Metr...-2-a73d1c8c-2fd2-4f19-aa41-2df022bcb241-spons

 

Alright guys just received my kit. I have a black ground, a yellow and 2 reds. One with a 15amp fuse to bolt somewhere and one to tap into a wire. How would I do this install?