Driver Caliper locking up

I am new to the Toyota but I have a 2003 Toyota Tundra limited v8 ! I try to do my repair because I enjoy and also financial reasons! I was loosing break fluid very rapidly from master cylinder into power booster very quickly! I purchased the master cylinder and brake booster at the local Riley's! I put both parts on and since I have the front driver caliper locks up! If I open the bleeder screw it releases temporary ! Please help because only can drive for a few miles
Linda

 

Aftermarket parts can be hit or miss. Usually brake master and booster are a good place to go OEM but I really don't think that's the issue here.

Not sure if its just a coincidence that it happened after the new parts but what kind of shape are your front brake soft lines in? When they degrade they will allow fluid in to apply the brakes but not let that fluid back out thus making your brakes hold.
This would be a cheap and easy starting point before trying more expensive items.

 

Rule #1 of working on Toyota vehicles: Almost always use OEM parts if you want OEM results.

You can get deep discounts on OEM parts if you order through the Toyota Parts website and pickup at a dealership (free), or have them shipped (sometimes free). More info here: https://www.tundras.com/threads/how...stem-to-find-order-parts.113808/#post-2941866

Likewise, if you insist on buying at the local parts store, ask for DENSO or AISIN brand, they're OEM manufacturers for Toyota.

Anyway, I think Nick's on the right track. It could also be a problem with a seal on the MC but since you're saying it's only happening on one side, that's not applicable.

I'd just add: Think about this from a logical perspective, about what's happening. You're pushing in the pedal in, which is pushing fluid into the caliper, causing it to close (see the gif/video below, click the box icon in the bottom-right corner for full-size video).

IF it's only one side with sticky caliper, that sounds like a brake line is either collapsing, pinching, or kinked on the side with the sticky caliper. When you release the brake pedal, normally the fluid should naturally pull back up into the master cylinder, but if your brake line is kinked/pinched/collapsed, and the fluid CAN'T get past that to get up into the reservoir, the caliper stays clamped. The caliper can't loosen unless the fluid inside of it is allowed to flow back up into the master cylinder. It's worth saying also: If you replaced your master cylinder and the booster, triple-check to make sure you got all vacuum lines routed and reinstalled, firmly seated. Not necessarily for this problem, but for proper brake operation, idle, and other reasons.

https://gfycat.com/excitablesoftiberianlynx

 

You guys! aren't using enough !! in your answers!!!

Good luck, OP!

 

Heilige schieße!!

 

If the brake booster rod that goes into the brake master is not adjusted properly, it may not allow fluid back into the reservoir causing brakes to stay somewhat pressurized.

This is because it may push the piston in the master cylinder part way forward and it can partly block the hole between the bore and reservoir.

 

@shifty` - you need to switch the I and the E to get you intended meaning. Schiesse is first person present tense of to shoot.

 

OP - if you soft lines are original, may consider replacing that one. The inside can deteriorate and allow brake fluid to infiltrate between layers much like an aortic dissection and not allow the caliper to depressurize.

 

I'm, uh, trying to play by the forum rules?
(truth is I'm slightly dyslexic, ist kein der Scheiß)

 

Ja, keine Scheiße, Scheiße!

 

Yeah, that too!

 

My man said Aortic Dissection.

 

Fuuu....

I lost a trauma patient to that this summer.....good description of brake line failure.