What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Sometimes best used on public golf courses at night.

 

Got an alignment today:

camber
LF 0 : RF -.3
caster
LF 2.5 : RF 2.5
Toe
LF .01 : RF .01

cross camber: .3
Cross caster: -.1
Total toe: .03

@assassin10000 @empty_lord or any other alignment gurus, are theses numbers sufficient? I was told that the 0 camber on the left was the best they could do.

 

Seems good enough to me. Rarely can you get even caster and camber on These trucks 0 camber and 2.5-3 degrees is what I aim for with a lifted one

 

Ditto. Within .3 a side is ok.

I'd prefer a touch more toe in. Min .05 per side. Ymmv

 

Looking good! Man, you need to come back to ATL at some point so we can correct that f'n paint, or at least get it to better than where it is today

 

Got these bad boys in yesterday and realized that it's just one set! Ughh, now to order another set. Pretty price for just 2 wheel spacers.

 

Huh.. I thought you could lock up the wheels already with the oem if you wanted.

 

I have not been able to since the 33s and in 20k miles I’ve burned a set of oem pads and EBC pads since i using for moving shit around the properties so much

 

Ordered some front wheel bearings. Tired of not being able to drive it very far. Tired of the groaning noises. Not looking forward to the overly complicated pressing procedure. Gotta get a 20 ton press too. No one I talked to wants to touch them.

 

Felt that way about a slab leak plumbing project once.

 

How many miles on the truck before it started needing them?

 

Just keep "Working it" one load at a time as we continue the clean up

Poor thing needs a bath & a detail but NOT going to happen until the "Work" is done...

Plus it is our only vehicle until Enterprise replenishes the "Fleet"

Life is Good .. One day at a time

 

Probably around 263k or so miles.

 

Both of crackies front wheel bearings need replacement, but alas... haven't gotten there yet. 290K on crackie.

Anyways, not today, but over the weekend I did squeeze in just a little bit of time to work on ole crackie. Here's a link. https://www.tundras.com/threads/crackhead-resurrection.94083/page-70#post-2942624

Oh, and to keep this relevant for the thread. I aired up the tires...

 

Is the overhead console stock?
I have that readout in my Sequoia Limited but on temp on N+S+E+W in 2006 Tundra Limited.

 

What cab type? Probably one of the most important details you can provide, other than your drivetrain specs, when chatting on this forum.

That overhead only came in Double Cab and Sequoia, which are very alike. Totally different beast from Access Cab and Regular cab, which are also very alike to each other.

 

In Continuation…

I went to Toyota to get the factory relay for the heated seats and get rid of the Jerry-rigged one I had. Now my seats turn off then the truck is off, like they should. $28 later but worth it. Simple fix. Here is the correct test in case anyone wants the part number.

 

Ah. So it was a relay issue. Sounded like it.

Interesting. We used to have that exact same bed cover or duvet or wtf-ever it's called.

 

Nice! Headache relieved eh? investigating is worth the time, to know what you need. You know Toyota would love to sell you a new heater, heater circuit wiring harness, drivers seat, hell, might as well buy yourself a new truck. Nope, just the relay thanx. @CodyP gets a 'W'
@shifty` notice the type of 'rigged' his old relay was?

 

Not sure I understand (brain no function twoday)

But I was actually curious to see a closer pic, to see if there was a diff'ce in the relay type.

IIRC, I mentioned this sounded like the relay was missing, mis-wired, or possibly even wrong relay before. Too lazy to go back and check. But I distinctly recall saying it sounded like something wasn't jumping 87a/87b as it should, to energize or de-energize the power feed.

EDIT: A lot of relays (not always w/OEM) will have a printout or emboss of the internal circuitry on the body, normally on the side or on top. It'd be cool to see what's there on both so we could figure out why it ain't working.

 

I went to get gas today and my locking gas door decided it didn't want to open. It did this to me once in 2020. This time it looks like the plastic portion finally broke. I'm going to assume Toyota only sells the whole thing, if at all. I guess I'll just roll without it. I can close the door and it at least looks locked.

 

Yeah, you'd need to buy a new lock assembly. Then pilfer the parts, or swap the barrel between the two. Or fab up a quick solution, which is do-able.

If we go by Toyota's diagrams, both the fuel door lock assembly and tailgate lock assembly show as "tailgate lock". I'm skeptical, tailgate should use rods.

It's hard to find in diagrams due to where it's buried in the catalog. Check the full-size of the 5th exploded pic under 'More Images' here.

Swapping the lock assembly out is a snap, just pull up the tab labeled 69581 here to release tension on the cylinder. You need to buy assmbly 69058 which is p/n 6905826030 (old: 69058-26030). I see cheap knockoffs you might be able to steal bits from for $20 on fleaBay? No guarantee though. Any old-school locksmith could swap out the cylinder for you. The new digital-car-locksmith types will probably say "no".

​

 

$54.95 shipped on fleaBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/265316339571

 

It's 3D printer time! I wish I knew how to use them. We've got enough of them at work.

 

Link isn't working for me but price is too steep right now. Appreciate you looking.

 

When I bought crackie... that finger was already broken off, and there was a key that someone had JB welded in its place. Literally, like a master lock key.

That broke off too, and now I just leave the door open. The hinge is rusty enough where it stays mostly closed...

This is about normal for it...

 

Got some SpiderTrax 1.25” wheel spacers put on since I had some slight rubbing from my tire on the UCA after installing OME 2885/5100s a few months back. Pushed the tires out almost to the flares which I like, and the ride hasn’t been affected really by it. I think it evened out between the slight rubbing and now with the spacers

before:


after:

 

Haha. Yup. I believe it’s just a blanket technically because a comforter would be stuffed in a duvet if I’m not mistaken.

Yeah I figured that was the easiest thing to swap since it wasn’t factory anyways and I actually had to cut off one of the prongs so I was pretty suspect of it already.

It’s already out in the dumpster but that’s exactly what it sounded like so even though it was a perfectly fine relay, it wasn’t doing what I needed lol

 

For those of you that fluid film on a regular basis I need to re-apply. Question is if my truck got any salt last winter do I need to presssure wash and hit it with salt away before re-applying or just throw it too it and call it good?