Ask the Toyota mechanic!

Normal behavior.

 

Awesome, thanks... Never seen it move before.. I mean I've seen it go higher.

 

Yotalife..
Hey how did you ever make out with this? I've been going through the same thing for three years or more. As soon as the electric fan starts up it stops..might be the fans clutch slipping
I put some copper tubing on a lube spray bottle so I I could spray in behind the electric fan and it seemed to stop it for a few months ..

 

Need some advice please.

I have a 2011 5.7L Limited 4X4 Sequoia. I had an issue with intermittent rough idles, sluggishness on the highway, and one instance where the truck would not start and then miraculously started and ran for a couple more months.

This weekend it wouldn't start again, I had been suspecting a failing fuel pump due to the above symptoms so I went ahead and replaced it with a FFV Delphi assembly.

It started fine, runs well, but now after sitting for too long it has a longer than normal crank time. It's not terrible, only a couple of seconds longer than it should be, but there's clearly something wrong.

I assume the fuel pump has a check valve on it somewhere, and my assumption is the fuel is draining back into the tank after it sits.

I'm guessing the best way to test this theory is to hook up a pressure gauge on the rail, pressurize the system, then let it sit and monitor the pressure.

Does anyone have any other suggestions? If it turns out to be a check valve, I am assuming it's on the pump assembly and I will have to remove the tank and swap it out again?

If I do have to drop the tank again, is there any easier way to access the top of the fuel tank to disconnect the the fuel lines? When I pulled it this weekend getting the lines back on was rather difficult, especially because one line is very short.

Thanks for the help.

Best,
AP

 

Lots of things could cause that, but honestly with it being that new a dealership may be your best bet. For better troubleshooting more info might be helpful. Size of the trailer, general temp outside, speed you were towing at, tow haul engaged, gear used, etc.

If you're just wanting to know about the fluid swap; you'll never hurt it doing a drain and fill. I know on the previous gen you would definitely want to change the fluid after the overheat light because of how high that threshold is set. Not sure where the 3rd gen threshold is and how much fluid degradation may have occurred.

 

How heavy were you towing

 

Hey everyone I tried searching through the thread with the search option looking for something like what I’m dealing with.

i’ll keep it short
2010 tundra base 4.6

I got a misfire on cylinder five and cylinder six within one minute of start up
Occasional misfire on cylinder four and cylinder seven.

I have swapped coils around misfire doesn’t move
I have swapped spark plugs around misfire doesn’t move
I have swapped injectors around misfire doesn’t move
I have checked compression and compression is between 170 and 185 on all cylinders (conveniently the 172 compression is on cylinder five)

The truck had the catalytic converters stolen so I had a new full exhaust including Cats put on by the dealer. Hasn’t even been 12 miles since then and I’ve got for sure misfire cylinder five and six occasional misfire four and seven.

none of the vacuum lines look corroded brittle or cracked. What am I missing? Something Toyota specific?

valve covers are leaking a little bit of oil so I ordered valve cover gaskets and a new intake manifold gasket. They should arrive tomorrow

$10 to whoever points me in the direction that solves my problem.

 

if you swapped coil and spark plugs and issue remains, Might be cables.

 

Play cables you mean the harness connector and associated wires?
Honestly that’s not something that came to mind but it is something I will check. I’ll report back with what I find

 

yes, that’s exactly right. Sometimes those could be the culprit.

 

2013 Sequoia condenser fan sporadic failure when sitting for long periods causing the AC to blow warm.

I have replaced the fan, can I fix the old one for a spare?

 

As I am sure you have found in your research the P0418 – SAIS Circuit/Relay ‘A’ Circuit Malfunction Bank 1. This is related to the Secondary Air Injection System and unfortunately an inevitable issue on Tundras. Below I have include a few recent threads about this failure prone system. Please do not hesitate to contact us if you have any questions.

What Does the Secondary Air Injection System Do?
https://www.tundras.com/threads/what-does-the-secondary-air-injection-system-do.113683/

What Do My Secondary Air Injection Error Codes Mean?
https://www.tundras.com/threads/what-do-my-secondary-air-injection-error-codes-mean.113686/

How to Fix Secondary Air Injection System?
https://www.tundras.com/threads/how-do-you-fix-the-secondary-air-injection-system.113688/

 

@Ruggybuggy Spot on! I recently post a new thread going into a little more detail about the SAIS. I hope this adds value to anyone looking to learn more.

What Does the Secondary Air Injection System Do?
https://www.tundras.com/threads/what-does-the-secondary-air-injection-system-do.113683/

 

After installing the Stillen Stage 2 Intake, I'm getting a high pitched whine in the cabin coming from the center console area. TBH it sounds like when you have a bad ground on a sound system and can hear the RPMs high pitched whine through something in the cabin. No idea on this one since I don't see how the INTAKE affected it, but it wasn't there before, and is there after.

 

Air intakes are noise generators on these trucks, so my guess is that it's working as intended.

 

Remove it to see if it disappears. If it does, reinstall. If it returns, then you'll know.

 

I have a 2018 Tundra 5.7L Flex Fuel SR5 with tow package. I am trying to do ATF level check following the "FLUID TEMPERATURE CHECK" procedure. According to the procedure, "It is necessary to change to temperature detection mode in order to idle the vehicle appropriately."
After inserting a jumper in OBD2 port pins 4 and 13 and starting the engine, the indicator lights on the combination meter are normal (not blinking). So I am unable to get the vehicle into temperature detection mode.
Any thoughts how to proceed?

 

Quick question. My black key no longer locks my door lock, but it does unlock it. I thought that it was a lubrication issue, but my spare/valet key locks and unlocks my door.
I know, first world problems... I've used the key fob, but lately I've been using the key to unlock, or the door lock button by the window switch to lock it... Any suggestions on what the issue is?

 

Probably a dirty contact in the key. Hopefully it's not worn out. The buttons should click, and I believe there's a light that lights up when you press a button. If the button doesn't light up, you'll need to take the key apart and clean the contacts. It's not difficult if you take your time and are gentle with the parts. If possible, use DeOxit D5 to protect them after you clean them.

 

It's likely wearing out. The cut on the valet key is probably a lot fresher. Does your black key see a lot more use than the valet key?

 

Keyfob works fine, but when I turn to lock it jams up like its not the correct key, but unlocks just fine.

 

I'm thinking its worn down.. Honestly, I just found my spare/valet key last week, so its technically new...

 

I'm surprised that the ignition hasn't given you the occasional problem too, but maybe they're just wearing together. If you don't have a heavy key ring, that helps as well.

 

Sure don't, just the fob, the house key and truck key. The ignition occassionally gives me an issue, like it locks up for a second, but I tug on the steering wheel and it turns with no issues.

 

Edit: Wrong tag

 

@blackdemon_tt If you have the key code you can have the dealer cut a new key exactly as supplied when the truck was sold new.

I'm assuming Toyota is the same as domestics I've owned with key codes.

 

I removed the K&N, drop-in filter the previous owner had installed, and replaced with a standard paper filter inorder to get rid of the "baby turbo/bov" sounds that you are experiencing.

Wanna say I remember reading that some remove the "waffle", which I believe protects the MAF, to rid themselves of the whistle while retaining their fancy intake.

 

I will look into this... Thank you

 

Sorry, I misread the problem. Hold the two keys up to the light with the valet key behind the problem key. You should be able to see the difference. A good locksmith can code cut a new key by measuring the valet key.

 

Cool, will inquire into that.