1st gen tundra lifts

I've got a stock 02 tundra that I want to throw a lift on and some bigger tires. I'd like to fit 35s on and be capable on a trail. Any lift recommendations. Looking for some advice from a tundra veteran

 

35s take some work. How's your suspension look now with 650k miles on it?
Here's my "build" with a high mileage lift:

https://www.tundras.com/threads/save-ironman-2022-aka-panhandlemonium.105311/

Take a look here for some ideas:

https://www.tundras.com/threads/how-big-is-yours-measure-up.46186/

 

What cab type do you have? It's pretty critical info to share, since AC, RC trucks are different from DC. Is that AC in your forum avatar pic the truck in question?

Have you got a good $5k to spend on everything and you're willing to hammer/cut as necessary to stuff those 35s? $5k is probably what you're looking at out the door for lift, wheels, and tires to do it right, without using shit lift products like Rough Country which have screwed up other Tundra owner's trucks.

 

I've got an access cab still working on the whole money part I definitely don't wanna cheap out

 

I can give suggestions that would get you up to a 33, probably with minimal rubbing, likely as cheap as $1500-$3,000 out the door. And minimal stuff replaced.

Anything larger than that, I think you're looking at hammering and cutting, and replacing lots of of stuff to compensate geometry changes to avoid premature fatigue and failure on stuff. Someone else would need to help you with suggestions on that.

 

This should be helpful. Copy from the wheel/tire forum sticky here
TIRE SIZE WITH AND WITHOUT LIFT KITS:
Note: These recommendations are based on the factory wheels. Using an upgraded rim with different backspacing will allow you to increase to a wider tire.
First Gen Tundra (2000-2006)
No Lift Kit
Max tire sizes are:

• 16″ rims: 275/70 R16 – 4/10ths wider, half-inch taller than largest factory tire size
• 17″ rims: 265/70 R17 – one inch taller but same width as factory
• 17″ rims: 275/65 R17 – 4/10ths wider, half-inch taller than largest factory tire size

1.5 – 2″ Leveling Kit (or less)
When installing a leveling kit, you might be able to fit some wider tires than what we have listed. It may require some trimming though, but it is possible.
Max tire sizes are:

• 16″ rims: 265/75 R16 – one inch taller but same width as factory
• 17″ rims: 275/70 R17 – 1.5 inches taller and 4/10ths wider than factory

3″ Lift Kit
With a 3″ lift kit, the options continue to get better. However, the wider the tire, the greater the likelihood of trimming.
Max tire sizes are:

• 16″ rims: 285/75 R16 – slightly more than 2″ taller than factory, this tire is 8/10ths wider than factory as well. This width may be problematic in tight turns and/or at full suspension compression.
• 16″ rims: 265/80 R16 – an oddball size, this tire is the same width as the factory but more than 2″ taller
• 17″ rims: 285/70 R17 – slightly more than 2″ taller than factory, this tire is 8/10ths wider than factory as well. This width may be problematic in tight turns and/or at full suspension compression.

 

Tire size calculator is another good resource. Going with the 3" lift kit option there, with the largest 17" tire, you're still not even at 33"

 

PS - @Jon@Mule is currently running 35s on his 1st Gen AC: https://www.tundras.com/threads/lets-see-your-first-gen-photo-thread.21/page-97#post-2913037

Read the comments after that picture. He doesn't mince words on the subject of running 35s, "If you are shooting for 35's you will want to tub the firewall, and I recommend running a wheel with a -38 offset and 3.5" back spacing. It will keep you off the frame at full lock. My fenders are OEM, but they are trimmed quite a bit, as are the flares."

@Averyklinnnn are you prepared to start cutting and welding to tub your firewall, trim your fenders, etc. to achieve this mission of 35s?


EDIT: May be worth tagging @Casper421 on this thread also, since he's on the stuffing-35s mission also.

 

If you search on just about any 1st gen Tacoma forum plenty of those guys tub their trucks to fit 35's. There is a ton of good info there, and the process is the same for the Tundra.

Here is a great thread showing what's involved.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...er-tacoma-build-and-bs-thread.330629/page-110

 

That's kinda what I was thinking was realistic right now is getting some 33s, what's a good lift to get them to fit.

Maybe later down the road i buy some long travel and some bedsides
I'm also interested in a rear locker

 

For Access Cab, it'll be different than what the Double Cab guys are running. Let me kick you some sample stuff that's specific to our cab type.

@FirstGenVol is running 285/70/R17 KO2's on his '02 with an Icon coilover kit up front with I believe Camburg arms and AAL in rear? So a fraction of an inch below 33", he mentioned previously he's only rubbing frame lightly at full-lock while in reverse, he can clarify on that and whether he did any trimming or hammering. Here's a current picture of his rig. Mind you, he's got the added weight of that front bumper and cap, which you don't currently have.

Here are a couple other Access Cab guys you can look at and see what they added: https://www.tundras.com/threads/how...rd-ac-4wd-w-steel-bumper.111261/#post-2872208

For a static lift, just running Bilstein 5100s, paired with OME 885 springs or Dobinsons, with a 1" AAL in back and SPC upper control arms, or whatever other UCA brand is your preference, you could get as tall as those guys, maybe out the door ~$1700-$2000 depending whether you assemble your own fronts, assuming you don't need a lot of other stuff. Static lift though, you'll be stuck with the stance you get.

For a couple hundred more, you could have the same Toytec Boss adjustable coilover kit @bmf4096 is running (current pic here) he's on 16s that measure in basically at 33", his suspension build thread is accessible from the last link. If you need to piece together in stages and lift-as-you-add-more-parts, that's an option w/coilovers. If you wanted to take this in phases where you don't need to replace your front suspension later, it's worth the added spend.

First steps are really up to you.

• Decide whether you want (A) a static/non-adjustable lift, or (B) an adjustable lift you can raise/lower as needed
• Be realistic about what install you're capable of doing, but, more important, about how much extra maintenance you're adding w/your lift (custom shit requires extra maintenance)
• Take an assessment of your current suspension state to figure out what else you need to replace during upgrade
• Set a realistic budget for your [static or coilover] lift which includes tires, & wheels if you plan to do those too
  • Don't forget to factor in alignment after each geometry change, plus other services you'll need a pro to do
  • If you need to go in phases, work with someone to figure out what the logical steps are
• I prefer to figure out what tires and wheels I ultimately want to be in, so I can separate that cost from my suspension budget, they get spendy QUICK
• I usually try to factor in at least 10%-20% extra in my budget for "oh shit" moments you don't expect.

It never hurts to run your parts list and/or build thoughts against other guys on here, maybe even in this thread, since you've already made it. There's plenty of help to be had.

DON'T buy Rough Country kits, and be wary of Rancho due to limited lifespan
ALWAYS use OEM ball joints and cam adjusters+sleeves where possible
ALWAYS be realistic about what you're capable of installing safely
ALWAYS understand that many custom suspension components require added maintenance

Good example of that last one comes with UCAs. The ball joints used on a lot of popular UCAs will require you to do extra periodic checking and maintenance of the joint.

 

Thanks Shifty!

Being on the younger side with limited funds, I'd go with 5100s all around and your choice of 33s. I run 33x10.5x16(255x85xr16) and they don't rub. Well, they do rub, but only because my alignment is off.

If you wanna upgrade later you can sell the 5100s to recoup some monies.

 

Lots of good info above. They pretty much summed it up. I am NOT as knowledgeable as the above members...but I would figure 3-4k to do 35's the right way doing install yourself. Figure:
-UCA-$750
-LBJ-250
-LIFT- UMM $1500-2600
--alignment-$100
-wheels/rubber-$?
-Diff drop/Sway bar ext-$500

And on and on. Just make sure you have the extra coin on hand. ...GL and post up progress pics.

I just looked into same thing and the info provided above was very helpful. -J

 

I just remembered another option as far as fitting 35's. These lowers move everything 1" forward and you may get away with 35's by gently massaging the firewall with a BFH. Or run BFG's lol.

https://solomotorsports.com/shop/su...kits-sequoia/stock-length-lca-tundra-sequoia/

 

They take cutting your pinch weld and hammering a shit ton, if you want to wheel your truck. I’m still rubbing at full stuff so I’ll tub the firewall this winter. Oem fenders are gonna go on a bigger diet after this trip!