What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I pushed it on the Industrial side of town. It’s ridiculous

 

The brown showed up?

 

Did Freddie Mercury jump out of a dumpster and high-five you?

 

I'm not sure how you knew that.

It's a momentary button for an air horn. I think I need to change the button to one with a safety cover, although it's not really in my accidental hit space. I wanted to put it in the overhead console, but as small as that thing is, wouldn't fit. It's for a "safety horn" that sounds like a train. Directions say not to activate it within 100M of any people...

 

Anyone ever play a subwoofer at 1 Hz at full volume? Pretty freaky to watch.

 

I want to put an air horn on mine. It's on my list. I don't have ABS so I've got a pretty decent spot to put a compressor of some kind one day.

 

It’s super convenient to have.
A tank is a game changer.

 

I don't even own an air compressor at the moment. Haven't ever needed one. I've got a cordless impact and I air up tires with a battery powered inflator that works pretty well. Could come in handy one day though having it portable and all.

 

a 5 Gal tank is pretty cool because you can adequately run air tools, except constant high flow like grinders. Great for any impact up to 1/2". Needed for a horn, but I only got a horn because I have two 5 gal and repurposed my second tank because the first plan was ditched. And - more than 5 gal and a twin ARB can't keep up with the volume, so pressure suffers on tires or air tools. My second tank is checked valved so the compressor is not constantly trying to fill both.

 

I'm fully wired for tacticool whippity do's. No pics, but I put a toggle next to the dimmer knob, to a relay, with a 'add-a-circuit' fuse kit for power. Since I got the fancy whips that can be wired to turn signals and brake lights, felt obligated to do so. Haven't plugged em in yet. I did drill 2 holes in the top of my shell which I wasnt thrilled about, but better than the cab. Rubber washers should keep it sealed well enough. The whips have quick release connections to the mounts and the power cables disconnect at the base as well. So when theyre not up, there are just two posts sticking up 1 1/2", and the cables get tucked into the shell-to-cab boot seal.
Also got the 4.10 gears set up with the LSD in an extra 3rd member I picked up for $50 off crayslist. Glad when i found that, cuz I was able to take my time setting it all up, and swapping complete 3rd members shouldnt take more than a couple hours. Also, if I find out that I'm not as good at setting up gears as i think i am, and it sounds like a handful of quarters in a blender, I will still have the original 3rd complete and ready to swap back in. If all is well, then that 3rd will eventually be rebuilt with 4.56's and a locker.
@alb1k more info/pics/link on the horn please. i've always wanted a legit train horn or at least the sound and volume of one. I've got a 2 horn kit with mini compressor and its.... meh.

 

That stuffs good, but have you tried the Rustoleum rust-dissolver? comes in a grey spray bottle but sprays on thick like a gel. Probably the same stuff but simple to apply. trust and try it. BTW NONE of those rust removing products should you allow to dry on the surface.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Rust-Oleum-32-OZ-Spray-Gel-Rust-Dissolver/1002035750

 

Alright my friend, stand by for a couple from the phone.

This particular horn is a Horn Blasters single "Safety Horn". Single is a big deal because good luck fitting doubles and triples and keeping clearance. At 25" X 6" I fit it in the passenger side bed rail - barely. Even with slider mounts welded, length was less of a problem than width/height. But it fits. It uses 1/2" air line which doesn't like to flex and you need a tight turn. If you go this route, PM me and I'll tell you how I got it to work. I used a separate momentary switch - I would never wire this thing through your existing horn [EDIT: Yes I would after having it, just put a switch to disable it from the OEM horn for when you want just that horn]. I also wired to ACC - in this case cig lighter fuse tap. I wanted the switch overhead, but it would not fit, so it's where it is. Lower A pillar could work. This pic is mock with a couple of holes drilled, I'll get some finals if you like tomorrow.

 

I don't even know how to do that. 1Hz?

 

Does that have a good pitch to it? Not like super high pitch or anything? Looks like a nice one.

Using a frequency generator app you can play different frequencies. 1Hz will make it move in and out very slowly. Looks kinda interesting.

 

They have mp4 files on their site for their horns, Ive been listening to them for a while now. I liked this one and it fits. In person, it's F-ing awesome. High pitched?- NO think Train or Semi...
I can't say I've heard it outside the cab yet with the windows down, but I can say, it's not a toy. Even though it's awesome.

Edit: there are obviously several switches available, but you want momentary. I spent a good hour deciding where to put it. I almost put it in my headliner because I think high is a good idea. Instead I drilled out a blank, that was another hour for fitment. I thought my switch was flush to the body when I ordered it - it's not so I may change it. As fun as this thing is, it can get you in trouble, so be mindful of that.

 

You have a link or model number?

 

ya.

https://hornblasters.com/collections/all/products/safety-horn

 

I just listened to the mp3/mp4/wave file. It sounds like that. But super loud.

 

They've got some high dollar stuff there. One air horn they have listed is $6k. I'll get a horn one day. Trying to sort out a couple other projects right now. Thanks for the info.

 

@Hi06silver if my fuel pump on the silver truck wasn't under the cab, I'd have changed the fuel pump, and seal while I had the bed off.... yours looks super easy. Denso all the way!

 

I was just about to ask if that was a "best to go with OEM" part on our trucks. Quick search found no instructions but came up with URD brand.

Ummm! Toyota website has the fuel pump for almost 500 bucks? Am I reading this right?

 

This is a really good point. Cling wrap, saran wrap, whatever you want to call it, it's definitely your friend here. If you need to keep it on and wet like my buddy with the Buck Regal trunk lid, spray or brush the acid gel on, then lay the cling wrap over it to keep oxygen from hitting it. I restored an old rusted-out Radio Flyer wagon for my kids using the same method.

Toyota site always lists the max MSRP. When you actually choose a dealer to buy from, you see the actual price, which can be anywhere from 5%-50% cheaper depending on what it is.

But really, just buy the Denso branded part off SummitRacing or similar.

Back when I was working at the audio/alarm/tint shop, there were a myriad of discs you could buy that would step through low frequencies for SPL purposes. I don't remember if they went as low as 1hz though. That's, like ... massive cone throw with the only audible noise being the whooshing of the cone. If you have long hair, watch it dance!

IASCA actually produced their own discs they'd run your system through to test. Like this, skip to 26:30 for the low-freq SPL testing stuff, 31:13 sounds like where it really starts dropping into ultra-low test tones, on a well put-together system I' sure it sounds killer but my PC speakers aren't having it (edit) ooh oooh ooooh and 37:10 is right around where the SPL testing starts (#32, 33 in the video's track list, slowly freq ramp up):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N3IvHfkH3VA

 

Me not having a 2006, and only plugging in the basics that I know about your truck from here into rockauto...

Denso fuel pump assembly with strainer $124.79

Autotecnica fuel pump gasket $14.32

Or you can do a Fuel Pump Housing, and assembly, but I don't see a Denso version. Looks like they range from $93 to $300

 

NICE! So the momentary switch triggers an electric solenoid that opens an air valve to the tank, right? I was working with a guy some years ago that found one in the classifieds from an actual train. He paid (only) $300. Thing was a beast, had like 5 horns on it, about the size of a small microwave but it was awesome. You know, another idea for your switch, like a trucker, you could do a pull chain hanging from the overhead console, that'd be kinda cool.

 

Yep, the speaker cone slowly moves in and out every second full excursion and it can be done with an app as Nick stated.

I wouldn’t recommend it for a prolonged time since infrasound can supposedly do damage to your body over time even though you can’t hear it.

Tune it anywhere between 1-20 Hz and maybe get that brown note?

 

Exactly. The Solenoid is built onto the horn, I should look to see what fuse they recommend, I just took a guess and put a 5 amp on the fuse tap.

 

Did you drill into the frame or use existing holes?

 

I drilled into the frame - only way not to in that location is building adapters for the random holes in the frame. It takes 3 1/4" holes and I tapped a frame ground.

 

Speaking of frame grounds - the bolts on the BFF sliders with the bolt/flange option give you some slick frame grounds. I used one of those for the 4 GA amp ground.