What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

My experience wasn't quite that bad. But I still can't get an alignment until Thursday. I called 2 of the 3 shops that do an alignment within 100 miles and the earliest I could get in was Thursday.

 

SO cal sucks a lot of the time, but they got shops and parts. I can walk to my alignment shop with a Hunter Machine. Half of my aftermarket parts come from socal. But, Ca toyota parts dealers can have the worst prices - there is one in San Diego I use once in a while. And Culver City is OK sometimes.

 

Started checking out the total damage

 

Gonna repair it yourself? Post pics if you do.

 

The passenger engine bay and maybe frame probably have to be outsourced? But what a great time to go LT and fiberglass up front, lol.

 

To me it's hard to tell. That first pic makes it look repairable but the 2nd doesn't, most likely because of the camera lens distortion.

 

Just need a translucent door.

 

Yeah you don't wanna eat up them brand new shoes. That sucks you're havin such a difficult time with a simple alignment job. Where would someone in the area go for a suspension overhaul? There's gotta be some little hole in the wall family shop or somethin, with caution of course. Sometimes those are the best, but then theres those other times

Ahhh yes.... the old 'Toe n Go'

 

See what's happening to you? 2 years ago looking at that pic, is long travel and fiberglass the first thought you woulda had? haha I love it

 

Lol, I can say without a doubt, I would not have thought that.

 

You just need a light kit to put on your garage door.
Link
Never used one but they seem neat. This was the first one that came up.

 

I know. Like a book I said

 

You did...

 

Push both rear cam adjusters all the way out (towards the outside) and put the fronts in the middle (down position).

Bust out the tape measure and adjust until you have about 1/8" - 1/4" toe in. Use a couple pieces of 2x4, 2x6 about 3 feet long or even some scrap ply wood cut to 1-1.5 x 3 feet to make toe plates. That'll get you around without destroying your tires.



Fyi with our adjustments the front end doesn't have to be jacked up for caster/camber if they have slip plates.

 

That’s what I thought but so many garages seem to be clueless.

I also put a mapp-pro torch to the jam nut on the tie rod and couldn’t break it free after a full minute of heating it on either side.

 

That's what I love about a lot of pre-1980s vehicles. Front-end swap was very easy to pull off. Actually, it was even possible (at least) through the MK4 VW era, Jetta/Golf front end swaps are pretty common. Maybe there's a practical reason they didn't do it with the 1st Gen trucks? It'd be really cool if he could just find a new donor front end and slap some stuff on.

Yeah, that would get smashed so fast where I live
I do really like the garage lighting solution @NickB_01TRD posted, though.

 

Got new trd wheels last week so I changed out the lug nuts for some black lugs and a security lug for each wheel. I also removed the front mud flaps due to the excessive rubbing on the passenger side from the 32" K02s.

 

Spray with penetrating oil, heat, apply more oil, heat. Repeat as necessary.

Or buy new inners/outers and use anti-sieze.

 

What I’m wondering is how the last alignment place got it on there so damn tight. It was never frozen so bad in the past and that was 3 years ago.

I’m hoping the alignment place isn’t going to break both inner/outer tie rods in the process of breaking it free. I’d be so pissed.

 

Mueller kueps wrench extender probably.

 

Here I go! Clean up time.







Just to add, since this a rust clean up thing...
I just got off the phone with the people at skybrite which sells Ospho. I asked if it was okay to neutralize and rinse it over top of grass and he said over top of grass would be fine but then said whoa. Whoa whoa! Why are you rinsing it?
I then said I thought it needed to be neutralized prior to painting and he said no. You don't need to spray it with water because you will just create more rust and he said just use any oil-based paint over top of it once it's dried.
This is totally contradictory everything I've seen online about using this product.

Jesus...then there is this...I plan on rinsing. These guys do or did it for a living.

 

That actually doesn't look bad at all.

You gonna do the fuel pump while you've got the bed off?

 

And seal!

 

Umm...didn't plan on it. Haven't researched price but I suppose I can.
More concerned with my removal/ prevention method at the moment.
Carwash degreaser to make the mess there than at home.
Probably have to degrease again at home due to PHM grease rub of frame.
Needle scaler, wire brushes.
Ospho. Wait.....dawn/ water rub after reactivated Ospho.
Grease rub again, some pb sheild/ fluid film since I have a few cans laying around .

Fwiw I didn't think Ospho would take several applications but on the under side of my bumper with not much rust it seemed to not do as well as I thought after just 2.

I can do fuel pump and apparently the seal why its apart. Can't cost that much

 

I have some of that too! Can't imagine it goes bad ...kinda wanna do leaf upgrade while im.in here but ...no.parts didn't think that far ahead.

 

I think you'd be silly to not replace the fuel pump AND SEAL since you already have the bed off.

 

The Naval Jelly I have is actually using this same label, which I think they stopped using 10 years ago? It's still good. As long as it stays sealed, it won't cake.

If you haven't worked with it yet, it's a gel product. Easy to brush on. Get as much excess rust off as you can, then brush on a layer of this, let is sit for 10, 20, 30 minutes (I think instructions say 10) then spray rinse off (so it doesn't splatter).

It won't damage paint when used in short windows like that. I had a friend who did the entire trunk lid of his 1970s Regal, left it on overnight. It got rid of the gnarly rust, but took what was left of the faded ass paint with it.

I had a little bit of panel damage on my truck when I bought it, and PO let it rust up. I didn't even bother to scrape the rust out. Two 10min treatments of this and it was down to bare metal. The most visible one, see original pics and details here: https://www.tundras.com/threads/lets-see-your-first-gen-photo-thread.21/page-67#post-1826900

Here's the same spot, 3-something years later ... Could I have done cleaner work, scraped it down, buffed it out? Absolutely. Should I have taken it down to bare metal by sanding so there's no lip? Probably. Is there any rust bubbling or other under there? Nope. Naval Jelly literally ate it completely out. Nighttime shadows are weird, that little top section isn't cracked. I checked.

 

I put that little Attractive Nuisance in today. I’m afraid to push it.

 

Show pics after.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vCadcBR95oU