What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

@CodyP if the part is #22 in this pic, it only appears to come in charcoal with p/n 716920C010B0 (aka 71692-0C010B0). What color is your interior?

 

I did Costco thin LED panels in the old garage. Great light color and pretty even distribution but $40 x 9 added up. I had wire inside the drywall from before and it was nice to stuff them inside my ceiling bike rack at least. Retrofitted after removing 4 bulb enclosures after ballast failure. Didn’t want to spend the time doing direct wire. Migrated 3 of the 6 enclosures to Palm Desert and retired the other 2, one had a dead ballast.

I’ll give the 4000k linkables a try. Right now the 5000k color is making crimping difficult. I really do like 2700k even in the Garage but 3000k would be perhaps the sweet spot.

 

Thanks @shifty` but I need the rear covers for the front seats. That little cubby is for coins (I guess) cause the heater switches go on the right side of the console. I can look for that piece at the junkyard though if you need.

 

Got it. I don't need anything. The guy I linked to does.

You have 60/40 bench or captains chairs up front? Are these the parts you're looking for?

 

Yep. Those are them. Tan in color. I have captain chairs

 

I guess your interior color is "Fawn" then?

If so, left and right appear to be the same part. If Fawn interior, your part numbers would be:
72137-0C240-E0 (non-power seat)
72137-0C250-E0 (power seat)

So if you're like mine, with driver's side power seat, passenger side manual seat, I believe you'd need 2 of 1, 2 of the other.

Anyone with your same manual/power seat config and interior color can pop each one off and get the part number, most likely though.

While they have different number/letter here, they all trace back to the same p/n, but there's a note that the '250-E0' part is for power seat:

 

And if anyone is available to look, you'll find the base part number underneath, here. The two digits at the end of the part numbers I gave (B0, E0, E1, B1, C0, C1, etc.) are the color code:

 

You have a bench shifty?

 

Nope, captains chairs, with driver side power.

I don't want to pull my part numbers because I'm AC and he's DC. If it's his money going into this, I don't want to give him my part number and find out it doesn't match on DC, knowing how many diff'ces there are between AC/RC and DC. The info above is strictly what is in Toyota's DC exploded.

It's my understanding if @CodyP has both seats manual, he should get four of the part with "24" in it. if he has power driver, manual passneger, two of each, "24" and "25". If both power - which I dunno if that was an option? - four of the "25" part numbers.

 

Gotcha. I asked because i was gonna go get a pic for him but I'm an AC as well. Didn't think AC's and DC's would be different. 'Roll down back window problems' haha. J/k cody

 

It wouldn't make economical sense for it to be different, and from what I'm seeing, Sequoia actually uses the same covers too.

I guess I could go pop one of mine off and check it.

 

Be gentle. The tabs like to break. I broke some of mine, and have been rolling coverlet since on the V6. Crackie didn't have covers? Can't remember

 

Found out my vehicle is really undriveable until I get the alignment which is this coming Tuesday.

Only drove 12 miles and it both feathered and chewed up the corners of the tread blocks on my new tires with the camber set to max positive and a bad toe in which I couldn't correct. The front tires were literally hot to touch when I got to the restaurant 6 miles away.

Somehow the A-hole who last did my alignment tightened up the tie rod jam nut so tight I cannot get it loose with brute force strength.

I'm hoping the alignment place will either put a torch on it or have longer wrenches for better torque. Either that or I'll be taking it home to break the nut with a torch myself.

 

This is what I have. PS, shifty’ rules.

 

Yup. Both manual seats. Fawn color. Thank you so much for this.


Whelp, looks like Toyota doesn’t sell them anymore. Guess it will be the junkyard afterall

 

Supposedly Toyota Parts Deal shows it as in-stock. Weird that the charcoal colored one is still around...

72137-0C240-E0 (non-power seat) : https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~cover~front~seat~track~rh~rear~outer~72137-0c240-e0.html
72137-0C250-E0 (power seat) : https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~cover~rear~seat~track~rh~72137-0c250-e0.html

There is one on eBay under part number 72137-0C250 but the price is obnoxious and it's only one of the 4 you need.

 

When I bought the F250, I drove the Z3 to the dealer, bought the truck, drove to Uhaul in the truck, picked up a car carrier, went back to the dealer, loaded up the car as the snow began, towed the car home in a snow storm, had to shovel & sand to get the car off the trailer the snow was so bad, but - unloaded the car, returned the uhaul to my local dealer & drove home.

I should think you could do the same (sans snow) with your Taco to get your Tundra.

 

cool thanks.


Anyone know why my heated seats would work with the truck off???? I feel like dead batteries are in my future.

 

Whatever line you tied into is 12V+ constant.

The power seat controls are always-on 12V+ constant, is that what you used? If so, you should use a 12v+ ACC circuit. Probe for other positive wires off the harness you teed from.

 

Inspecting my aftermarket CVJ axles, I noticed some very undesirable cracking. How worried should I be? Installed these new 18-months ago. I got the 9550R for both sides. These come with red extended poly and neoprene boots. No grease slinging yet…

 

I would send these pics to the seller / Mnfr and get them to send new boots or shafts. That cracking is just gonna tear through.

 

I should be able to tow the Tundra with the Tacoma, but I don’t have much interest in driving south for no good reason.

The Tundra should be reasonably safe to drive. I’d need an alignment but the local shop with some advance notice should be able to handle that.

Mostly I’m waiting on Jason to finish the shock relocation. The welding for that is beyond my capabilities, at least now.

That plus alignment and it should be fine. One flight and an Uber, alignment appointment then 1000 ish miles. I’ll stuff in 3 bikes and hopefully pick up my new front bumper on the way north.

 

I used the factory wiring for the switches and even before the seats were hooked up the switches work 24/7...weird

 

Yeah, that's pretty weird. Never had a car with heated seats like that. Maybe something to ask another DC-power-seats user about.

My only wild ass guess is you're missing a relay, and maybe the path is [fuse box] => [switch] => [heater] and there should be a relay with 12V+ ACC source wire between the fuse box and switch?

 

Ah good point. I did add a relay to the stock location for the heated seats according to the write up but wonder if I messed something up

 

I thought about using these but I kept my original lights in place by using single socket to double socket adapters. The two smaller lights are still installed and I have a pull string controlling the brighter lights. Keeps energy consumption down when I don't need the really bright lights.

 

Yeah, in my case, the builder of our house installed standard ceiling pans wired to the garage switch, and the Lithonia fixtures I had were non-switched/always-on. In theory, I could've gotten secondaries to run off one receptacle, and a switched on the 2nd, and have it all wired to the wall switch, or I suppose have an always-on of the single gange/double receptacle for the garage door opened a few feet away with the switched outlet, but I'm lazy.

I would love to have more lights in the garage, but when the garage door is up, which is pretty much any time I'm working in there due to space constraints, the garage door itself would cover fixtures on the ceiling of the other half of the garage.

(I wish someone made an automated "roller" door that was more compact)

 

Just wasted 1/2 my day taking the truck to two tire shops for an alignment.

First shop told me their front end jack was broken so they couldn’t push out the tires to correct the positive camber.

Second shop thought they required special hardware to set camber since they only do toe. Whaaa?

Now I have to get a ride to work tomorrow and resolve it on Thursday with a regular shop but I need it towed there.

I’m having such a wonderful day!

 

I remember when @Darkness mentioned some shit shops do that.

 

We have way too many of those here unfortunately. Custom alignments are something I’d have to get in a neighboring state.