What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Those look sweet and I like how you are tracking travel. I push my rubber up all the time. If that surface rust bothers you, wire brush it a tad and just mask off your cable and new shocks, etc. and blow some rattle can around. After it gets dirty again it will blend great. Then shoot almost anything with some oil or silicone included at it. That rear is pretty clean in general.

 

Ran the portable Bissel around the upholstery today. cleaned some plastics as well and a quick run of the exterior. Very slow moving though, it's really hot for SoCal. Oh yeah, driver seat belt was disgusting. Hot water w/Dawn and borax soak did a good quick job. Dried it with a towel and then air dried in about 20 minutes thanks to the heat.

 

Mine were definitely a bitch to install as well. Mine didn’t come compressed and strapped which would have made it much easier IMO. You will love them though. Very happy with mine so far

 

Got the new steering rack in and steering shaft seal replaced. Took a lunch break and then dove into the LCAs. Got one side out and the new one almost fully installed.
So far so good. Milwaukee sawzall with Diablo carbide blade is making quick work of anything that’s seized. Hopefully button everything up tomorrow and get it in for an alignment.
Thanks for the assistance @FrenchToasty I appreciate it.

 

Here's one 100 miles after installing 5100s with 884s. 5100s replaced stock shocks in rear, nothing else. Stock tire size, soon to be replaced. How big can I go without trimming? I'm considering 255/80r17s.

 

It's currently too hot to do anything in Socal. You're a brave man to be out there shampooing your interior.

 

How hot was it today, like 89?

 

Like 92 in SD which is cooler. Probably 100 in LA. Saturday was 104 in Riverside. Pretty nasty.

 

That's why I went out of state. It was over 100 and humid last week, probably worse now with the heat wave. Inland SD gets hot AF.

 

at 0900, and I'm 1/2 mile from the ocean.

 

Not a day to be barefoot on the sand..

 

No, blisters before you realize it.

 

Water temp isn't looking too bad though, 75 at La Jolla

 

wow

 

80’s at the beach…I’m in love

 

When we hit 80s a few years ago I was at the beach everyday and I don't even know how to surf. Just gotta do the sting ray shuffle

 

Ben is also pumped the wind isn't in his face for now.

 

When are you guys teaching me how to surf

 

Fuuuu surfed all day today lol. Can’t remember the last time it was glassy all day. Ready for fall

 

I got you you! Anytime your up my way I got boards and a suit

 

Any of y’all wanna take a stab at this? Wife’s 07 sequoia, open the door this evening, to get something out and now the dome light in the 2nd row won’t go off. Tried slamming all the doors, changed the position on the switch itself, pulled the 10 amp fuse for the dome circuit, and verified all the door weren’t sticking.

weird part is all the other lights, associated with the dome circuit work as they should. That bulb brights when you open the door, and then goes back too dimly lit when you shut it but stays on after the timer kills all the other lights. It also stayed on when I pulled the fuse for the dome circuit. I guess it’s worth noting it is an led bulb from diode dynamics. For now I pulled the bulb and I guess I’ll try swapping a new one sometime tomorrow.

anybody else got any ideas?

 

New 150A time, eh? I'd give you the spare low-mile 100A Denso I've got on-hand, but not sure it'd do you any good.
It's super cheap to get new brushes for your existing alt, then swap in. Rebuilding is pretty easy with kits, also.

These are usually a simple circuit, tied to the pin switch/plunger on the door. On most cars, there's one screw holding the pin switch in, though you may need to lift up the rubber boot. First thing I'd do is install a non-LED bulb, see if it continues. Then pop out and disco both the rear door switches and see if it continues. Based on what I saw, I'd do other tests. Curious, does pulling the dome fuse kill any other courtesy lights?

What @alb1k said. Stiff bristle wire brush, clean the areas with spray can 'paint prep', then hit w/satin finish black Rustoleum. I used the same on my factory tow/hitch receiver area when I replaced my bumper a couple years ago, no rust has returned since, and you can't even tell it's not factory after the paint has a light coat of dust etc.

1st step is to get into the water.

Honestly, the hardest part is probably learning how to get up and I suppose also "when" to get up. It's something you can and should prepare for in advance. If you don't do squats regularly, start doing them with or w/o weight for a few weeks before your big day. Doing weighted shrugs will help too w/paddling. Do yourself a favor and have someone show you paddle-out tricks so you don't find every wave knocking you back, else you'll get burnt out each time you paddle out.

Expect your lats and especially your traps to be sore af the next day from paddling and your core to be sore from getting up. Oh, and nipple rash (/surf rash) is very, very real

 

you the man. Found my trouble maker. Pulling the fuse kills the whole circuit. So none of my entrance lights come on. I’ve got some rigid industries rock lights tied to the dome lights. Cut those loose and problem solved. I should’ve looked there first but I was pissed at 2:45 in the morning when the light wouldn’t go off and trying to grab sleep in between calls for work . Got a constant ground somewhere where they’re spliced together. I’ll check it another day.

bought my own headache with the rock lights but they’ve been flawless for over a yr and super helpful for when the little dudes chunk stuff out the door in the dark

 

I’d split rock lights off on a separate fuse and circuit w relay. That should help a bunch.

 

Well, I got very close to finishing the lower control arms, but hit a snag.
The LCA cam bolts are two different sizes for front and rear. Has anyone else come across this? I thought they were all the same size. Now I have to wait until these come in to get the truck aligned and be able to drive it.

One cam is longer than the other as seen here



Then, I get one bolt off intact and it's longer than what the parts site said as seen here. WTF?!!!

 

I haven’t started mine yet due to the tire issue. So, I’m confused. What is the size of the CAM sleeve it came out of there? Is it longer than the ones you ordered?

Edit: Are you saying the bolts are listed as the same size on the parts website? That would be wrong.

 

When I ordered mine there were part #s for the cam sleeve ending in 20 and 30. The 30 is for the front and is slightly longer than the back cam sleeve.
I tried “persuading” it to fit, but no luck. Both front bolts were the longer length. The old cam sleeves had to be cut out so I couldn’t compare them to the new ones.

 

Reminder to all to check the Insides of your tires on all your cars just in case of this exact thing.

Get that rear axle wire wheeled and painted at the very least. Wouldn't ever want that cover to rot out then leak.

Give it the ol PHM special with the silicone lubricant. Makes them retract like new.

 

That’s really bizarre. That would imply the sleeves you bought are shorter in length than what you cut out if the old bolts fit in them but not the new ones. I’ll check mine as soon as the rain lets up.