DIRTY SEVEN CLUB

You'll need to take a look and see if you have zerk fittings to grease.

 

So, I unbolted the LCA at the ball joint, but I did not touch the upper arm at all nor the LCA cam bolts. I have understood from reading on here that aftermarket upper arms can be kind of noisy, so maybe you are hearing that.

May I suggest bouncing up and down on the truck at each wheel to see if you can tell which area(s) of the truck is squeaking?

 

I did and honestly i hear it mostly in back for sqeaking and the front i hear when i turn. almost like a grinding sound at low speeds even when there arent bumps im going over.

 

Also i'm still running factory control arms. The ready lift kit i got says it was compatible but now im thinking i should be replacing them...

 

I had a 07 Tacoma that made a kinda sqweaking noise when I dove slow and people getting in. It drove me nuts. It took me a month to find that it was my sway bar bushings. I bought new bushings and grease then before I installed them. Problem solved. A mechanic told me after I told him my story that he already hammered a little nail in the bushing. I don’t think I would do that. It would be my luck that it comes out just to give me a flat tire.

 

I called a shop here and they said that i should check the bolts from my lift.... i dont think thats it but i plan to check that over the weekend when i can get under.

 

I've got the Patagonia MT-02 On my tundra. Like them so far. Zero complaints.

 

Well I was able to get under the truck and saw that the dust cover on the rear shock was busted pretty bad on both sides. Added some lube on both sides since both are broke in the same place and worked it in and the annoying squeak is gone! Problem is with out replacing the cover this will continue. Anyone know if Toyota will cover the replacements?

 

I created this spreadsheet maybe four or five years ago. As long as the brand and models are still the same, the specs should be good.

My focus was on weight and overall diameter, plus I needed to know the bead wire thickness for our beadlocks.

I’ll say that of all the tires my friends and I have run, we’ve almost all ended up on Toyo MT for the balance of durability and weight. If you know how the Uberfahrts run, that’s a relatively meaningful statement.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1YJT_cU61X5Ei0mQn_N6rhuMZXdJnutuFrUhstCv1oa8/edit

 

I have toyo now and I’m happy but on 35s. I’ve been hearing some good things about the toyo RT. Have you run them before? I don’t off-road much but like the aggressive look of the MT. Have also been thinking an AT might be best for me

 

We ran the RT for a couple years before committing to the MT

I like the MT better then the RT for both on and off road. They’re the quietest MT I’ve ever seen and also wear extremely well.
Our truck is my wife’s daily driver and also our weekend warrior, so it sees a lot of both street and dirt.

 

My biggest question is 37’s and figment in the rear. I have my dirtking kit getting installed next month but need to run the rear mid travel so I can save for the rear long travel. I have king 2.5 res and deaver springs in the rear. Dirtking kit called for zero offset wheels. You think I can run the rear with 37’s without much trimming?

 

Did you have to trim anything in the rear? The front isn’t an issue just worried about the rear tell I can save for my rear lt kit. Also going with zero offset

 

How hard are you wheeling?

I am on an icon rxt pack on option 3, constant load, stock shackles, 0 offset wheels and I don’t rub. I wheel but not super gnarly stuff so ymmv

 

Thats definitely the answer I was looking for. I have the total chaos shackles so it’s sits a bit higher I would think. Not planning on doing anything super harsh tell I finish the rear anyway so I think I’ll be fine.

 

Zero offset and 37s is fine in the rear even without any lift.

At cross axle they articulate up into the wheel well. Only issue is large whoops or small jumps where you run both the left and right all the way to full bump at the same time, then they each get into the fender a little.

These are effectively -5 offset after the beadlocks were added. Icon RXT springs on option 2.

 

nice Kevin... where is that trail

 

Dirtied up!


Need assistance…

My quandary;
SCS Ray-10 +25 offset
37x13.5/18

with no spacer I’m hitting the sway bar pretty good when turning.
With a 1-1/4” spacer it effectively pushes me out to a 0 offset.
Now I’m hitting near the back at my fender flares and plastic.
Clear of bmc.
Sitting at around 3° caster on MCM fab ucas.

should I keep the spacers and try more caster or am I going to have to lose my sway bar and lose the spacers?

*Pics are without spacers

 

Good morning @Hightide do not quote me but...I have heard 6 caster is what you need for 0 offset.

 

That’s Broken Arrow, buddy!

 

thanks brother!
Had to adjust caster myself just to get out of driveway.
Getting an alignment now.

 

ah ha... I thought it was familar.... @KevinK

 

What bumper is this?

 

its a bumper made by @SS_built

 

The rear long travel if going for spring under will need a wheel spacer. My setup was rubbing until I went with the dirtking lower shock mount and 2" spacer.

 

Bumper with the blue wheels on 37s is tits

 

update on the truck thinking on doing the sliders and fender rails from the bumper to the sliders whenever I find the time I take suggestions or ideas!

 

Really digging that bumper

 

Can I join the club?
37" Nitto Recon Grapplers
18" Method 305 0 offset
Fox 2.5 front/rear
SPC Uppers
Coachbuilder shims
Toytec rear shackles @ 1.5"


I still need to lower the front to match the rear as I can't fit in my parking garage haha

Also is there a way to get more caster? I'm at +4 with the SPC uppers maxed. Is there other options?

 

Update pix