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When did your OEM brake pads finally wear out?

Discussion in '2.5 Gen Tundras (2014-2021)' started by 737fixer, Sep 3, 2022.

  1. Sep 3, 2022 at 3:29 PM
    #1
    737fixer

    737fixer [OP] New Member

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    Just curious on how long members got from their original front and rear brake pads do to them actually being worn out. I've read several posts on changing them due to warped rotors and just starting new or generally just some type of issue but people don't seem to post when the pads worked a good normal life and were changed just from wear.
    Thanks and enjoy the long weekend. Here its 108 degrees so I run to BBQ, turn brats and burgers, sprint bake inside while kids play in 104 degree pool that's as refreshing as someone peeing on your leg.
     
    WFD473 and WILLINH like this.
  2. Sep 3, 2022 at 4:29 PM
    #2
    frichco228

    frichco228 Valued Member

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    Virginia
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    2016 Crewmax 4WD, TRD Offroad
    Eibach Pro Truck Stage 2 suspension, HD RAS, 285/75-18 Nokian Outpost AT, LoPro bed cover, TRD rear sway bar, DD 10 inch exhaust, and various other goodies
    Much depends on how the truck is used and driven. Off road, heavy tow and haul and higher speed before slowing will wear them quicker. But there are many with 80k+ miles and original brakes with no issues. Then there are others that needed rotors/pads with just 24k miles. Really depends on how you drive the truck, factory stuff is pretty good but Tundras do seem prone for rotor runout. Tundras brakes will also pulse due to improper brake material transfer on the rotors, bedding in the brakes when first installing helps with that.

    Ive got almost 60k miles on mine, pad are fine and would easily last to 80-100k, but rotors are pulsing and new pads/rotors have been ordered. Ive had pulsing since I got the truck, used at 32k miles. Every once in a while I will re-bed the brakes and that helps reduce the pulse for a bit. But I am going to try Cryo rotors as see if they do better.
     
    Tundra Dude 45 and ColoradoTJ like this.
  3. Sep 3, 2022 at 4:38 PM
    #3
    mzim

    mzim New Member

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    285/60/20 Nitto Ridge Grapplers Full ARH long tube system Bilstein 6112 Front +2.7" Bilstein 5160 Rear & Icon 1.5 AAL & +2.0 Shackles Fender Flares 1D6 White Knuckle sliders TRD Grille Morimoto LED Headlights with LED DRL/sequential amber switchback turns Rigid Fogs with Square TRD Bezel 4x LED bed lamps wired in OV Tune base load with iterations coming Tech12Volt remote with 2 way fobs and range extender antenna 4.88s with Auburn TRD skid plate Koyo radiator - FAILED REINSTALLED OEM Tyger tri-fold bed cover Bed mat from Boss 4x4 Front bumper spacers 0.5 inch by Boss 4x4 Pop n Lock tailgate wired in Black badging all around Cover King Urban Cammo seat covers front/back Rough Country Floormats Halo 9 HU Underseat kicker sub JRT upgraded speakers
    Just had mine swapped out at 70K roughly. Mostly stop and go city driving. Dealer installed. Front rotors swapped also.
     
  4. Sep 3, 2022 at 4:43 PM
    #4
    Theonlyway

    Theonlyway New Member

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    I had to replace my brakes and rotors around 60k
     
  5. Sep 3, 2022 at 5:28 PM
    #5
    Tundra Dude 45

    Tundra Dude 45 New Member

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    Im at 61K so far, I rarely haul anything heavy and never towed anything. I do have the pulsing issue, I should get another 10k+ out of them I think.
     
  6. Sep 3, 2022 at 5:38 PM
    #6
    Stumpjumper

    Stumpjumper New Member

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    Like fricho228 stated it varies a lot by driver. A set of brakes will last me 3 or 4 times what they did my ex. She only knows 2 pedals. I can get north of 100k on brakes. I anticipate stopping and slowing traffic and even downshift at times. Most of my driving is highway on flat ground. Terrain will make a huge difference on brakes. When I lived in WV brakes lasted about 1/3 as long as in Texas.
     
    Last edited: Sep 4, 2022
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  7. Sep 3, 2022 at 6:03 PM
    #7
    TundraMcGov.

    TundraMcGov. Your friend. Your foe. Not yo Ho.

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    84,000 miles. Between half and a third of the pads left. I have new OEM pads on the shelf for when I'm ready to dive in. I'm a conscientious braker. :cool:
     
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  8. Sep 3, 2022 at 6:22 PM
    #8
    Black4X2

    Black4X2 New Member

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    At 40,000 the fronts were almost down to metal. All my driving is in town so I do a lot of stopping, The rotors were fine so I didn't change them. It stops smooth with no vibrations.The rears are still about 50% so I didn't change them yet. I used Toyota pads and greased the shims like your supposed too. When I first back out of the carport they let out a terrible squeal. After that one stop they don't make any more noise. But I can live with that. I'm sure with more road driving and less in town driving they would have lasted longer.
     
  9. Sep 3, 2022 at 8:20 PM
    #9
    737fixer

    737fixer [OP] New Member

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    Thanks all for the response. Frichco228, exactly what I was looking for.
     
  10. Sep 3, 2022 at 8:28 PM
    #10
    Coal Dragger

    Coal Dragger New Member

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    I wanted a faster vehicle so I also bought a Chevy SS... because 4 door sedans with big V8’s are hilarious.
    I am at 146,750 or so miles on my 2007 (same brakes as 14-21), and still have the original pads and rotors. Last time it was on a lift for new tires last fall, the guys in the shop took a look and advised the pads still had life left in them.

    My driving is overwhelmingly highway in a rural area. So it’s not at all unusual for me to get up to speed and not touch the brakes for most of my commute to work.

    Instead I have strange issues that most probably don’t have. Like degraded lexan headlight covers right over the high beams from constant use at night (I drive a lot between dusk and dawn). Turns out those high beam bulbs must generate a fair amount of heat, most people in higher population density areas probably wouldn’t notice an issue here. There’s little traffic where I live so the high beams are on almost all the time after dark.
     
    landphil likes this.
  11. Sep 3, 2022 at 9:56 PM
    #11
    Joe333x

    Joe333x Member

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    Are you just going to throw new pads on and keep the rotors? Im in New England and my rotors already have a decent amount of corrosion at 33k. Pads are absolutely fine but I've gone back and forth with whether or not to do rotors at the same time as pads. I've always done both together but a mechanic buddy of mine said its a waste of money, just throw new pads on. But then what happens if the rotors start having a pulsing issues after new pads, now its almost a waste of new pads since they bedded with the old rotors already. Kind of like the buy once cry once theory.
     
  12. Sep 4, 2022 at 5:13 AM
    #12
    TundraMcGov.

    TundraMcGov. Your friend. Your foe. Not yo Ho.

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    That's my plan. Consistent with what I've done for the last 35 years on all my Toyotas and never had any problems. I'm putting OEM pads on when I do it.

    The 1997 T-100 still runs the stock rotors at 265,000+ miles and the braking is absolutely fine.
     
  13. Sep 4, 2022 at 5:24 AM
    #13
    Retired...finally

    Retired...finally Utilizing that doctorate of procrastinatory arts

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    Sometimes the pulsing is due to rust buildup around the perimeter of the rotor. I make it a habit of taking a small ball peen hammer and tap tap tap away to knock off as much flaking rust as possible when changing pads. Eye protection and dust mask are mandatory PPE.
     
  14. Sep 4, 2022 at 5:35 AM
    #14
    TundraMcGov.

    TundraMcGov. Your friend. Your foe. Not yo Ho.

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    Hmmmm. Haven't ever noticed. But will be sure and check and "tap tap tap" as necessary.
     
  15. Sep 4, 2022 at 5:41 AM
    #15
    nikoschicago

    nikoschicago New Member

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    Replaced rotors/pads 42K. Fronts were needed and rears had a bit more life, but did all around. I'm second owner on a '17 1794, and was immaculate when I purchased early this year. My mechanic, a trusted toyota master mechanic, often recommends changing rotors as well as pads, instead of retooling rotors. Said they don't grind well and produce a good surface - warping common. I replaced with OEM, but wished I had some more time to research TRD brakes or others as an option.
     
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  16. Sep 4, 2022 at 11:06 PM
    #16
    lowball

    lowball New Member

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    None yet
    Just had it in the shop at 71k. Pads and rotors still good. All street driving, no towing anything. Lots of twisty mountain roads with a lot of breaking. One emergency stop 50mph to 0.
     
  17. Sep 5, 2022 at 7:45 AM
    #17
    Danimal86

    Danimal86 Looks clean even when its dirty!

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    I had 27000 miles on the oem pads before my rotors were so wobbly i had to swap everything. Probably could have gone another 20k miles on the pads if the rotors would have held up
     
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  18. Sep 5, 2022 at 4:16 PM
    #18
    Gene_in_FL

    Gene_in_FL SUPER genius

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    My rear brakes needed pads and rotors at 111,000. The front didn't need pads until 160,000 and the rotors were still good at that time. I'm now at 210K now and still running the original front rotors.
     
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  19. Sep 6, 2022 at 8:54 AM
    #19
    Philogynist

    Philogynist New Member

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    For you Northeast drivers, removing the pins and hardware and check that the caliper slides easily. It is a good preventative maintenance measure.
    Replace with new pins and hardware. I do it every Spring after Winter tries to destroy everything with salty roads.
     
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2022
  20. Sep 6, 2022 at 9:27 AM
    #20
    MadMaxCanon

    MadMaxCanon New Member

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    Too many, but not enough....
    At 20k miles now and I think my rotors are slightly warped already. I was coming down from my mountain cabin from about 8000 feet just yesterday and noticed toward the end of the descent that I was getting some vibration when applying the brakes. I usually cruise down in S4 to avoid using the brakes too much but even with that it didnt stop it completely. I think they started getting hot towards the end because it wasnt vibrating when I first started to come down. Disappointing but I had the truck fully loaded with people and some gear so im sure that didnt help. I think I will start saving for some stoptech cryo rotors. Might upgrade the pads too depending on their condition.
     
  21. Sep 6, 2022 at 9:28 AM
    #21
    MadMaxCanon

    MadMaxCanon New Member

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    Too many, but not enough....
    What did you upgrade to?
     
  22. Sep 6, 2022 at 9:39 AM
    #22
    Danimal86

    Danimal86 Looks clean even when its dirty!

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  23. Feb 27, 2023 at 6:17 PM
    #23
    ninjajay

    ninjajay Posting from the toilet

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    Toytec/Radflo Lift, Ambit RS02 18x9+0, Bridgestone Revo 3 295/70/18
    Rears finally starting to go at 72k, fronts have a ton of life left but I’ll probably change out all 4 pads. Rotors look good and I’ll probably get em turned with the new pads.
     
  24. Mar 18, 2023 at 4:04 PM
    #24
    lowball

    lowball New Member

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    None yet
    Update: had the truck in for some service and at 82k mil my front pads are down to 3mm. So just decided to upgrade the rotors to vented smooth brembo’s and factory Toyota tundra pads.
    4B0380C5-E8E2-4FF1-AD99-781E417F960D.jpg293CAFA2-9E83-4CB0-9BDC-174AC0DA4300.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 19, 2023
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  25. Mar 23, 2023 at 3:32 PM
    #25
    Rob's Inferno

    Rob's Inferno New Member

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    i got 60k out of my factory front and rear brakes. Installed all new front and rear Factory rotors and pads .
     
  26. Mar 23, 2023 at 5:17 PM
    #26
    TucsonTundra1794

    TucsonTundra1794 ASCM #6-11 I'll buy if you're willing to ship

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    Just replaced mine with direct imports. They still had life but not very much. Truck was at 112000 when I did it.
     
  27. Mar 23, 2023 at 5:33 PM
    #27
    blenton

    blenton New Member

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    142k out of original pads. Front and rear wire out at pretty much the same time. I tow and haul often, but do a fair amount of non-city miles as well.
     
  28. Mar 23, 2023 at 7:39 PM
    #28
    Ebrperk

    Ebrperk New Member

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    I did front pads and rotors around 107,000 due to warped rotors, the service app from Toyota stated the dealer put on pads and turned the rotors at 67,000. I did use Toyota pads but got my rotors at AutoZone, duralast gold, been a year and 10,000 miles ago, so far so good, Rears really need done. Those pads have about 3mm's left, just waiting on the weather to cooperate.
     
  29. Mar 24, 2023 at 3:09 AM
    #29
    RichterScale

    RichterScale I identify as a potato

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    I haven't made it past 30k or so mi on a tundra yet. But not because they needed to be changed. 2011 had 31k mi on it when it was T-boned by a plow truck but the brakes were still perfect at that point. Got a 2015 after that and upgraded the front pads and rotors at around 30k miles because I was building a house. The stock brakes were still perfect but I started hauling an equipment trailer that was either filled with material or a 6800 lb tractor. And the bed was filled with tools 24/7 for 2 yrs so I beefed up the fronts (probably not necessary, just one of those "made me feel better" things).
    I just got the 2021 with 4k mi on it. I don't plan on working this one as hard (or totalling it) so we'll just have to see what I get out of the factory brakes. I don't drive like a maniac, but I don't drive like I'm 100 either.
     
  30. Mar 24, 2023 at 3:46 AM
    #30
    PermaFrostTRD

    PermaFrostTRD Tumescent Member

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    I’m at 40k with OEM. Stopping performance better than my 2014 DC (so far) that got new stoppies at around 65k and took me to trade at 112k.
     

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