What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Ordered the CAM adjustment sleeves and some caliper pins for next week's dismantling and replacing of lower control arms. Can't believe I'm doing this yet again.

Also picked up kit #3 tool rental from Advanced Auto to make short work of removing the lower ball joint and tie rod end from the control arm.

Work can wait until AFTER labor day since I already picked up some steak strips and beer for the cookout. Besides, what's the point of working on Labor Day?

 

Tried to be nice and surprise picked the wife up a new riffle for these squirrels in the pasture.... broke the liftgate handle putting it in car.

My dad said his was an absolute bitch to change when he broke, anyone else with more specific experience? Guess at least this gives me a chance to figure out why the window iant rolling down back there too while its apart.

 

Sequoia question?

 

You were supposed to have those side windows all the way down when you pulled in. (Worked for me when I moved up north)

 

Sounds like a Sequoia. Ton of videos on youtube.

 

Latch is a breeze. Never done a window regulator but heard they're a PIA. don't see how since I remember a ton of room in there once panels are off. Unless you got them XXL Mitt size hands.

 

Greased the upper control arms, sprayed the uniballs w/ wd-40 specialist ptfe dry lube, rotated the tires, topped off the Freon, and got the sequoia a full detail. The wife’s sequoia is pulling hauler duties for all of us going down West Virginia’s Gauley River.

 

I've done every ptfe dry spray as well as oil. Not sure what I like.

 

Doh definitely. Although the handle on Tundra currently has a broken rod end clip too (again). So apparently ill get to make a day of fixing rear handles

 

While you are in there, grease all of those clips. I don't have a sequoia, no help there.

 

I’ve been lazy up too this point. I should’ve done it before now.

what oil did you use? Did it hold up any better? How bad did it attract dirt?

 

Hehe. 6112s go brrrr.

 

I'm guessing those UCA are after market?

 

Super lube dry spray, and oil, tri-flow, some blaster ptfe borrowed on a trip. I'm sure the dry ones attract less dirt, but shit get's dirty no matter what I use, so...

 

But if I had to pick one - Super lube dry spray then super lube oil

 

Ya, my tundra and her sequoia are both running total chaos uppers, and pretty much identical front end setups with the exception of coil overs. Once the uniballs are toast I’m planning on converting both trucks to icon delta joints.

 

I used super lube for the control arms, once the wd-40 specialist is gone, I’ll try their dry lube. The wd had really good reviews on Amazon though

 

I think ive had some wd dry around here and I thought it was great, just never tried it on the ball joints though. Honestly, whatever shuts the squeak up is fine by me. Everything I've used does it for months, until I go off-roading, then a day after I get home, loud as F

 

I wonder if anyone has tried motorcycle chain lube on their uniball uppers?

 

Hey @FrenchToasty Im thinking of tackling the rack this weekend and I’ve got my plan laid out, but have one question. If the rack does not come centered, how do you get it centered for installation?
There appear to be some faint match marks, but they are not lined up. What’s the best way to move it and know it’s centered?

 

SPC UCAs are nice and quiet. I pump a little grease in the BJ when I change my oil and that’s it. - Not what you’re looking for, but if you do go for a replacement.

 

So I pulled my old unit, had wheels centered, measured from a reference point on each side to the outside edge of each inner tie rod, then adjusted my new one to match as close as possible. I also counted how many turns to get outers off even though I had new outer tie rods to use

 

Thanks. That matches what I’ve read from a few other sources. I’m a bit disappointed that the match marks aren’t better and it’s not centered. But of course it can’t just be simple.
Now I’ll just have to avoid dumping ATF all over my head, unless that’s a secret trick for installation @bmf4069

 

Took the tent off so the gf can replace some worn out velcro and a busted zipper.

 

Pulled me steering rack today. So far so good. I think I have the new one pretty well centered and matched up with my old one. Only issue so far is getting the rag joint pushed up the steering shaft. It seems stuck, so calling it a day and gonna let it soak in penetrating oil overnight and try to get it moved tomorrow so I can replace the steering shaft seal.

 

Sorry, just getting caught up after 10 days romping between Iceland and Amsterdam. I think I've gotten to everything except the Lunch thread at this point, and that's likely to take me a couple hours, maybe I'll head there tomorrow

What you realistically get depends on which cab type you have, which drivetrain you have (V8/V6 and 2WD/4WD), which stock springs you have & how worn they are. Of course, if you have armor, winches, a cap on back, or other weight-adding, the height numbers drop. Also, it'll most likely take a few dozen km/mi of driving around to settle to final height after install.

On an a V8/4WD Access Cab wheel gap front to back leaves you with about 2" rake/height difference.

5100 + 885s are supposed to put you in the 2.5" - 3.0" lift range, though you'll see an array of results from others around here, most that fit these specs end up near-level or with a slight reverse-rake (squat), easily corrected with 1" lift out back. I have yet to see pics of a V8/4WD/AC with 5100/885 that still has any forward rake.

On an a V8/4WD Access Cab, 884s are supposed to put you in the 1.5" - 2.25" lift range, so you should maintaining a slight forward rake (if not totally level), but there's nfortunately a shortage of V8/4WD/AC trucks on this forum running this setup, which I find unfortunate.

If you plan on stiffening up out back, lifting, new leafs, AAL, or blocks to lift another inch, and want the added height, you probably want to do what others did and go with 885s. If you just want to clear a slightly larger tire, cut the crazy stock rake in half (or more) but not look totally-level or reverse-raked, maybe go for 884s?

EDIT: Any Double Cab drivers reading this, this info doesn't apply to your truck. Knock 1/4" - 1" off depending on your drivetrain.

 

Guess I won’t be doing any highway driving until I get the front two tires replaced.

FYI…can’t get tires within alignment spec until I replace the LCAs.

 

I think I finally tracked this AC issue down. My voltage drops below 13V (12.5 actual measurements) the compressor stops cycling. Therefore causing the AC temps to get warm. As soon as I rev it a bit or throw it in Nuetral, the compressor starts to kick in. I think I may need a new Alternator

 

5160s went on today. My surface rust has me feeling a little ugly-truck-conscious though…

Install was a pain in the rear. Both upper nuts were rusted on. I cut the driver’s side off not once but twice, then proceeded to strip the lower bolt upon removal somehow. Passenger side was a little better, I was able to get a good bite with vise grips, but didn’t think to put my ratcheting wrench on first, and didn’t dare remove the vise grip to put a wrench on it again. Spent 30 minutes giving it quarter turns with a flip of the wrench every time.
Upon install I turned my brain off and installed the top of the driver’s side shock first, then proceeded to fight the shock to get the bottom bolt in. Passenger side was much easier/faster to install since I turned my brain on and installed the bottom first.