@TundraTex 2016 CrewMax Audio Build

That's the place that made the most sense to me based on my specific crossover mounting features, proximity to a wiring harness, and space behind the door panel. I'm sure there are other locations, but you just need to remove the panel and see what works best for your equipment.

 

I actually had the exact same speaker / crossovers as you do. I mounted mine a little bit more to the right. I wanted it to double-sided sticky tape and some sort of strapping to secure it a little better. Here is what i came up with, it does barely touch the front side of the door window switch molding. But it also helps secure as well

 

Hello! Amazing thread Tex. I have a non JBL system and need to make sure I am understanding the under seat stock amp. If I pull the amp, will the stock speakers still function? I am putting in an LC2i for the sub and only running a mono amp for the sub (no amp for speakers). Hope that makes sense, thanks!

 

if you remove the amp under the passenger side seat, you will lose the sound from the door speakers. The headunit powers the dash speakers. the OE amp under the seat powers the door speakers

 

Thank you! Now that makes sense why I had an order for the wiring harness and apparently it never shipped and I thought I had just misplaced it, or was just losing my mind ‍♂️

 

There are a couple of options. Check out this JBL Thread for additional info: https://www.tundras.com/threads/how...n-tundra-jbl-entune-system.22527/#post-539924

 

All right. I'm at a loss for how to get past my issue. I have tried wiring from both the j44 and j45 harness using the speaker wires into my LC2i audio converter and then RCA into my sub amplifier. My sub gets a signal just fine (and sounds absolutely incredible) but I can't get any sound to the doors now. Any thoughts?

UPDATE: I unplugged everything and reconnected the factory amp back to it's original state (no sound out to amp/sub) and I have no signal to my door speakers at all...

 

Another update.... Took my truck to Toyota to hopefully determine if the amp is bad and they have discovered two wire taps under my right side passenger kick panel... They said that is not installed from Toyota and I have not had any work done on the truck... The two wires run under the floor mat carpet into a hole in the floor and they think towards the back of the truck. Has anyone experienced this?

Update.... The mysteriously spliced wire was for the locking tailgate getting installed when the truck arrived at the port. Why Toyota didn't know this off the top of their heads is still a mystery. Simply had a fuse blown.

 

Hey guys I know this thread is old but looking for some insight. Been lurking on the

$290 Alpine KTP-445u Universal Power Pack

Alpine KTP-445u threads and think that this is the route I want to go. Am I right in thinking that If I bypass the old amp and run a line out converter like LC6i before the power pack that I can easily add a sub and amp combo later if desired? Looking to do this progressively, the old me definitely would have wanted a sub, but with an infant now I kinda want to take it slow and not get a crazy system going, so thinking upping power to the door speakers, if thats not enough upgrade door speakers, then if still not enough run dedicated power supply for sub/amp and pull signal from line out converter. Anybody have input or recommendations on this?
Thanks!