01 5vz r150f no check engine light

Ok, I saw '06 and expected drive-by-wire. Thanks for the clarification. The TB butterfly would be the only thing I can think of to prevent air intake, unless rodents entered the intake, and shredded the air filter, which happens sometimes on sitting vehicles.

Curious, what happens if you power up the pump with the battery pack and crank the truck? Does it run? Just trying to understand if something is happening that's preventing the fuel pump from getting power when you turn the key forward to crank it. This problem (to me) reaks of no spark or no fuel during crank, and you already confirm it has spark.

Quick rant: It really pisses me off there is no easy bolt-on solution to put a pressure gauge onto the fuel rail on these Gen1 trucks. At least, it's not with the 4.7. Coming from a GM world, at least with the GenIII SBC platforms, there's an unused threaded port at the end of their fuel rail you can use to directly monitor fuel pressure on bank1, with an analog or digital gauge, which is great for times like this when you need to confirm you're getting constant. adequate pressure throughout the start/run cycles.

Edit: Here's an example, from a previous LS1 swap I did like 15 years ago. This analog gauge is at the end of the bank1 fuel rail. I'd love to do this with my 4.7/2UZ-FE, but it requires way more fuckery to make it a reality.

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So honda uses the same M12 thread size for their fuel rail banjo bolts. You can snag a b&m or generic fuel pressure gauge kit for a honda and bolt it to the fuel rail and have an npt port for a gauge.

Instead of cutting a pressure line.

 

Someone linked me to another post, maybe at TS or something, that showed the process, it wasn't exactly cut-and-dry or "clean" to make it happen. I recall seeing the OEM fitting you had to adapt was banjo-based, and IIRC, the end result wasn't exactly attractive.

I dunno, maybe I'm being too harsh or picky. I just feel like in our digital age, when the computer is controlling and monitoring everything, it's worthwhile to at least have the ability to screw on an analog gauge. I wish it was just that, have an existing Schrader at the end of the rail, and someone can thread a gauge on. Meh.

 

Well, get you a designer to just make up a new fuel rail. It'd sell....

 

Ha! I'm not a mechanical engineer, I'm a system engineer. Design isn't in my DNA.

 

Nah, this is unbolt original bolt and add adapter bolt. Thread gauge in or use angle depending on where it faces.

 

This is what I ended up doing

In the rent a tool there's a piece with 2 hose barbs and the fuel guage fitting

I just cut the fuel feed soft line and stuck the adapter between the pump and fuel pressure regulator right at the engine

I kept the piece installed on the feed line because the first guage was faulty anyway so they were just going to damage return it to the distribution center

To answer your other question... I ran the power and ground from a Milwaukie m12 drill battery straight to the fuel pump... it got power and had pressure and made noise the whole time I was messing with it

 

I'm at a total loss, then.

 

Guys. It was the spark plugs. They were that bad

 

Well, at least we weren't totally crazy it was one of the first culprits Noah and I mentioned, if the quotes are right. But I'm really surprised, after you mentioned they were brand new. If they were legitimate and not knockoffs, and not the wrong part, I'm surprised...

 

Yeah they were some Bosch plugs...dual prong but... just really bad

It's interesting because I've had knockoffs "denso" plugs whose grounding prongs fell off that still ran the engine fine

After that I kinda took for granted an engine would run regardless the plugs condition

 

So what did you put in, in place of the Bosch plugs?

Here's what I used that I ordered from Amazon on January 24th, 2020. Been running fine since then...

$15 NGK (4302) BKR5EKPB-11 Laser Platinum Spark Plug, Pack of 1

NGK (4302) BKR5EKPB-11 Laser...

Would I order any engine parts from Amazon ever again? No. Too many knock offs out there.

 

Some densos I had from my 4 runner that were in good shape that I never threw away

 

Also, here's what my old plugs looked like after 180K miles when I HAD them changed. It had been so long, and I was so new to vehicle maintenance then that I was scared I'd get a spark plug broke off in the head. So I hired the local retard auto shop to change them.



You got pics of your old plugs? From before the bosch?

 

I need to get 50 posts on this forum to make a wtb post

 

I don't take pics of anything regretfully

I still have them, I'll get pics maybe

 

Sounds like you've still got time to change that "regretfully" into something else...

 

I live a couple towns away from my buddies house where the truck is

 

God damn, your bio confused the fuck out of me with "06 2wd 4.0 sclb."

There for a second I thought that I'd reccomended the wrong plugs to you... FFS.

 

Yeah I made this profile a while back when I was working on my neighbors 2wd 06 4.0 rclb

Didn't have a tundra at the time... now I have 2

 

Hell yeah! Doing it right!

This all reminds me, I've had new plugs in the garage for a minute now. I really need to swap them in, but I've been lazy.

 

I guess that would make sense. Bad plugs can ignite ether because it is highly flammable compared to gasoline....Kinda scary that you were spraying ether next to a battery terminal that was arcing. I hear that there have been accidents caused by people who do this.

I would think that you could smell the fuel coming from the tail pipe if it wasn't being ignited or running rich.

So when is the supercharger/turbo going in? Lol

 

It was indeed

At ups freight I helped the maintenance guy mount tires with starter fluid and a lighter... meh

 

Oh yeah. Those are f'ed.

 

Nice!

 

I drove the truck for the first time I bought it after it say for 5 years... the 3.4 and the 5 speed all work together very nicely