Overlanding build questions

Hi I'm a newbie and looking at buying a 05-06 and overlanding it. I'll be adding tent, kitchen, awnings ect. My concern is with all the weight added how will it handle grades? Anything special I should know about overlanding one?

 

Are you looking to buy an access cab, double cab, or regular cab?

 

You should know: These trucks have a significant problem with frame rust **if** ever driven on salted roads. Lots of trucks are sold in undrivable shape, and the buyer finds out they got screwed after. Even more so, shady ass dealers do shady ass stuff to conceal and hide the frame rust before resale, watch out for rotten frames, shiny frames. Timing belt failure will kill the V8 engine in these trucks, and it needs to be done at least every 10yrs/100k miles, ask for proof it was done in that time frame, you’re out $1k avg if you need to have it done. Last but not least, low mileage doesn’t mean “better”, it comes with its own host of problems, I know this from having a 2-owner sub-80k mile truck.

Once you actually get the truck, pop back in, there’s a plethora of help I can see you getting on your build. If you happen to be in the Atlanta area, there is a Toyota/Lexus service center who also specializes in overland builds north and south of town.

And if you live in a salt-free area, don’t assume your frame will be good. Someone from Phoenix posted a truck on here recently that came down from Utah (probably got cheap at auction) and someone had previously welded in supports to hold the frame together, then dealer spray painted it all black, poorly, to hide everything. Shady ass shit. I think the assumption maybe been, b/c it was being sold in PHX, it surely must be local, then found out otherwise when they asked. There are pics around here somewhere…

Sorry this doesn’t directly answer your questions, I think the other answers to the last poster will help answer better, but you said you’re a newbie so I’m giving you the big warnings every newbie to the 1st gen world needs to read.

 

Double cab, long bed.

 

Thanks!!! I need all the info I can get. I've always been a Dodge girl so this is all new to me. I'm in SoCal and have a builder, just need to find the truck!

 

So at a minimum I’d be looking at:

*front 2.5 coil overs

*extended sway bar links
~ suspension Maxx or overland designs

*new leaf spring pack
~ archive garage, deaver etc.

*extended rear shocks

* air bags?


That should give you a solid start. Stay away from add a leafs, most of these trucks are gonna have flattened out leaf springs from age and overloading. It’s just a Toyota thing. Also be aware the turning radius on a double cab truck flat out sucks. Like my Cummins dually turns sharper than my double cab does.

 

Weight should be your biggest concern. My advice is to plan around how much you’ll be carrying and like someone said above get a custom pack of leafs and heavy duty coil overs up front.
If you can afford it something like a GFC really helps give a ton of function for limited weight.

 

So an access cab has better turning radius? That is one reason I'm down sizing cuz my 2500 is just too big for a lot of trails.

 

Weight is my concern going up grades, do they have the power to handle weight and grades? What is GFC?

 

Access cab has a much better turning radius. Have you considered a first gen sequoia? Or are you dead set on a truck?

 

GFC=GoFastCamper. Basically a camper-shell with a roof tent built into the roof. There's several different builders doing similar now roo. But they are all spendy $$$$.

https://gofastcampers.com/pages/the-gfc-compact-truck-camper

 

https://vagabondoutdoors.com/

Another option.

 

If you are concerned about weight going up grades then make sure you get the 5.7

 

She shopping for a 1st gen, not a land yacht 2nd Gen. It's a 4.7

 

Hi Sandee- The '05-06 double cab is a good platform for overloading. We chose the '05 because of the variable valve timing and slightly higher horsepower over the '06. We've had it for a few months and have had major maintenance done for peace of mind--timing belt, plugs, cam seals, water pump, all gaskets/hoses/belts checked and/or replaced, fresh fluids change. We swapped springs and added rear air bags as we run a truck camper. We've added all LED interior lighting, front and rear LED light bars, an auxiliary battery with isolator, and a bunch of other things to make our truck more long range usable. You'll find a good range of folks buying the first gen Tundras for long range travel as they are relatively cost effective, offer a V8, and more elbow room than a Tacoma. As Shifty said, check your frames. There are great ones, and repaired ones out there. Just a matter of finding the right fit. Good luck to you!

 

+1, but I would like to add that the (2000-2004) non-VVTI 4.7l V8 (2UZ-FE) is a non-interference engine, and will not have issues if your timing belt fails. (This is incorrect, I was misinformed)
Also the 03+ Transmissions are beefier than the earlier transmissions.

Double Cabs (Commonly abbreviated DCs) started in 2004 and stopped in 2006. The DC is nice, but it's a bit different from an Access Cab (AC) or Regular Cab (RC). 2004 has a 4-speed transmission, a non-VVTi 2UZ, and various other dissimilarities such as headlights/fenders. The 05-06 have 5 speed Transmissions and VVTI 2UZs. The DC is heavier than the other cabs and turns like a land yacht. Fitting bigger tires is also more difficult on a DC rather than an AC/RC. 2UZs do not respond well to power modifications. Adding long tube headers and a supercharger is about the only power you'll find.

35" tires will require significant cutting if you want to go that big. As far as the lift goes, you're limited to about 3" of lift without going to a drop bracket style lift. Without replacing the control arms and moving to a long travel kit, you will achieve the most ground clearance with 3" of lift.

If you're thinking about aftermarket bumpers, I would evaluate your needs before springing for one. You can really save a lot of weight/headache by going for a hidden winch mount and adding beefier recovery points in the stock locations on the frame. I find a lot of people throw aftermarket bumpers on their trucks when they really don't need them. If you find yourself hitting your front bumper on obstacles is the point where it would make sense to change to an aftermarket one. This is the hidden winch mount I recommend to everyone. I know a guy locally that runs this one and he has had no issues out of it.

I highly recommend getting skid plates and extending the rear axle breather as well. RA motorsports, Skid Row Off-Road, and CBI Off-Road fab all make their own take on skid plates.
Out of the three, my personal favorite is RA Motorsports since their skids are made of aluminum which saves weight at the price of emptying your wallet more than the other options.

Finally, I'd like to add that there is a company that makes a 2nd battery tray for these trucks that is really the cat's pajamas. You can find that here.

When shopping for a 1GT, I'd inspect the following (ask to see receipts):

• Timing Belt/Water pump kit (OEM or Aisin TKT021) (Bonus, ask what coolant they used to refill the system. These trucks really like the genuine Toyota Super long life coolant.)
• Lower Ball Joints (If they don't have receipts to show that they're OEM, just assume you're replacing them.)
• Radiator (Denso or OEM) Radiators house both engine coolant and transmission fluid. If it breaks, it can mix the two fluids and cause major transmission damage and cooling issues in the engine.
• Frame. Check the Sway bar mounting locations on the front end, and the spare tire cross-member under the bed. Be wary of anything that looks like it's been welded/painted over.
• Modifications. I'd immediately pass on a truck with a CAI. The stock intake is exceedingly good on the 1GT since it's already cold air and uses a good filter. Aftermarket intakes at best will sound different, and at worse will kill horsepower/torque, and will introduce more particulates into the engine which can kill it over time. I'd also be weary of any electrical modifications such as interior "mood" lighting or starlight headliners etc.
• Transmission - Transmission fluid should be changed semi-frequently, or not at all. I've heard of many transmissions biting the big one after someone decided to change the fluid after 150k+ miles of no fluid change.

 

You’d be surprised where a full size truck can fit. If you’re just overlanding, then you’d be able to go where a Taco can go.

 

This is simply not true. We've looked it up and posted proof in the past. The 2UZ-FE in all of its iterations is an interference engine.

It's super important everyone stops spreading that misinformation. Think about it logically --- Why would Toyota magically change it to interference over a year when changing nothing else super-significant about the block and other peripherals? That's a pretty distinct change to make.

Here's prior discussion on it, with proof from Gates, who aren't going to give you misinformation, their reputation relies on providing solid application info: https://www.tundras.com/threads/timing-belt-necessary-at-35k-miles-for-a-2004.109079/#post-2815481

Please consider editing your post. Help stop the misinformation mill.

 

Yeah, copy that.

The 5VZ-FE 6-cyl is non interference, and was available in early Tundras. I wonder if that’s where people get confused.

Second for OP, 1st gen tundras are not much smaller that your dodge. The double cabs are a big truck. A 2nd Gen Tacoma would probably be a better choice for overlanding.

The 4.7 Tundra has plenty of power for all the overlanding gear. If you want more then a rear gear could bring the power back, same goes for a Tacoma.

I’m coming from a 3rd gen Tacoma. But I also have a 1st gen Tacoma and another 1st gen Sequoia. Gotta love the V-8 power, but it is a big truck.



Old 3rd gen

 

Sorry all, but I'm gonna be 'that guy' for a sec here... @Diablo169 - what size are those tires on your first gen? Any rubbing? I'm tire shopping and those look great.

 

Just the normal 285/70r17. 1.25 Spidertrax spacers, 5100’s and 885’s, icon add a leafs and Firestone Airbags with daystar cradles.

Basic bro build

edit: little bit of rubbing, I had to massage the pinch welds a little, but all good. Springs have settled some, so I could probably raise it up a bit, but offroad it hasn’t been an issue.

 

Hmm, apparently my research was inadequate. Thanks for the heads up. I'll edit my post.

 

Just to be clear... there's no such thing. Double cab and access cabs both came with only one bed size. (and incidentally, they're not the same bed, so not interchangeable)

Long bed was only offered on the Standard Cab.

 

"Overlanding" has become a ubiquitous term. I'm not certain where you plan on overlanding but, a double cab could be a lot. Here in the PNW, they're pretty much too big. I've seen guys get by with access cabs. Tacoma sized rigs do well. If you're area is much more open, like much of the southwest, a double cab could fit the bill nicely. If the DC fits your local terrain, get after it. Like others have said, make sure the frame isn't roached out. Also, make sure the timing belt and lower ball joints are good to go and get there in the wild.

 

I've been VERY slowly building out my Access cab as an Over lander. If you're not bringing a whole family the access cab is a grwat choice. Solid room in the back especially with the seats out for gear and storage. you get a full 6' or 6' 5/6" bed. It is actually with in an inch or two in length compared to a new taco crew cab. Shifty covered pretty much everything else. Just be advised that our trucks don't have the same support as similar USDM trucks. But there is always one of us that has made some weird crazy stuff work. We do out best to mangle =)

 

I have a gen 3 TRD PRO, I'm slowly turning into an overlanding rig. If any one has any experience wiring up lights and a hood solar panel to this hybrid set up would appreciate it. The hybrid system seems to have "special" 12v that doesn't seem easy to access nor modify.

 

You may want to check over on the 3rd gen forum. This thread is posted in 1st gen, we have little to no experience with 3rd gen trucks.

Link: https://www.tundras.com/forums/3rd-gen-tundras-2022.128/

 

This thread was from last year but I got a ton of good info. I wonder if the OP ever found a good 1st gen to build.

 

great info! I appreciate all that input you had on these overlanding mods for the 1st gen tundra. i'm looking into the skids, battery tray. but damn that hidden winch mount looks intriguing. not sure i want to go with a whole new steel bumper.

 

No, an access cab sucks too. These 1st gen Tundras all have ridiculously large turning radius compared to later gen Tundras or other models. Not warning you away but letting you know, if you're thinking a smaller truck length equates to smaller turning radius, that's not true for 00-06 Tundras.