Custom Car Audio

For the amps they are the rockville db16 for the subs and for the doors it's a db45. The caps are rfc30f caps from rockville as well.

 

Yo!! Your setup is dope!! Quick question though if you don’t mind. How does the diode work with the stock alt? Asking more so because I’ve never heard of it and how does it compare vs just upgrading the alt. Just interested in power options.

 

The diode simply lowers the sensed voltage so the regulator thinks it's lower than it actually is. The generator will do everything it can to keep the sense input at it's original specified voltage. The sense input just goes to an internal resistor voltage divider (pretty much like a volume control) so knowing it's resistance one could also use a variable resistor instead of the diode and get an adjustable voltage out from the generator, even to the point of getting a 24V unit out of it. I wouldn't warrant it's durability at that kind of overvoltage though.. It would also need twice the rpm to reach that voltage (given the same current draw).

 

All I can think is…

…there’s no cure for tinnitus.

 

Been banging for many years and my hearing is still perfect. Get tested annually and my hearing has not been affected one bit.

 

I hope your luck continues.

 

Appreciate that!

 

Anytime. Or you can go to singeralternators.com and fill out the form that pops up. He makes custom plug n play harnesses that plug inline with your alternator plug

 

I’m probably going to try this route because I’ve upgraded to (2) DC Audio XL elite 15s and maannnn I’m clipping so bad lol I also need to adjust amps and stuff though.

 

The Tundras are the easiest to do a diode on. If you go to the parts store and buy an add a fuse you can add the diode to the add a fuse instead of a fuse then In your fuse box under the hood there’s a 5amp fuse marked S ALT. Remove that fuse and replace it with the add a fuse with diode. You should charge at 14.8-15.1v

 

Find someone who has a DD1 to tune your amp or you can buy one from SMD and do it yourself. Definitely worth the money. You can then tune other peoples amps and charge $30 each to pay for the DD1

 

I recently upgraded my system and went bigger. I now have 2 Resilient Sounds Team 15s powered by a Crossfire 16k

 

I’ve heard great things about the resilient sounds subs. I’m currently running (2) synergy 3.1D..I have 1 on each sub at .5 ohms. Was thinking about trying the soundigital 8000.1 evox or going with a powerus 8k.

 

Do you have custom door panels or aftermarket mids in factory locations?

 

Only bad thing about them brazialian amps is they’re extremely power hungry. The Powerus 8k pulled like 950amp draw at 1ohm certified and over 1000+ amp draw on dynamic. I’m sure they share the same board as the Taramps amps just different housings. They’re all beast amps for damn sure.

 

That I’ve heard as well. My buddy had the Taramp smart 3k and you could barely move the gain any without the amp clipping and cutting off but at the time he wasn’t running lithium.

 

Yes I’m currently running the DS-18 PRO-X8M mids in my front doors. When I get around to building my door pods each from door will hold 3 of them. They’re the best and loudest I’ve seen so far and they take everything I throw at them. Plus you can’t beat the price either. I have them powered by a Apex Audio CAB M4 amp

 

Gotcha! I had the deaf bonce Arnold 6.5s which were loud but then I switched over to Beyma 6p200FE to get more of a mid bass since I added DS18 tweeters to the front doors. Earlier in the week I blew one of the beyma speakers in the front and replaced with the PRV 5mb550 and I’m pretty impressed. When I stop being lazy I’m going to build pods for (4) 8s in the front doors.
Thought about just ordering from customspeakerpods.com but I would like (2) 8s for each door and they haven’t responded to my request yet and that was over a month ago.

 

Have you checked out GP Car Audio. They have a CNC section in their drop down menu. https://gpcaraudio.com/gps-cnc-shop/

 

Had no idea. Saves a lot of time just find the spot glue it down and start fiberglass work. Man you’re saving my life with this info. Lol

 

They’ll make you whatever combination you want as well. Also if you’re every needing an answer to anything car audio and want a truthful answer even if it’s not what you wanna hear hit this guy up. You may have heard about him or even watched some of his videos on YouTube. Dude is highly knowledgeable and enjoys sharing his knowledge to those who wanna learn. He also sells everything for subwoofer rebuilds. His names Patrick Chandler he’s the owner of Robot Underground (602) 312-6504

 

Subbed! *Double entendre...Pun intended. Love the builds and all the info!

 

I thought I was a big shot with my JL Audio sub setup under the seat. I put components up front that are so so and replaced the rear speakers with 'nice' coax speakers that just make noise. A JL amp drives the doors nicely and a Rockford Fosgate am feeds the subs sufficiently. After 3 years of this, I'm desperate to replace the factory head unit this fall.

My wife doesn't appreciate ANY of this. I can't have the stereo up far enough to hide the noise from a healthy fart when we're in the Tudra together.

 

Bad place for these tweeters..

 

Custom door pods are being done anyway but curious, Why do you say?

 

Tweeters should be aimed closer toward your ears. The sound of those Tweeters will get lost down there. They should be on the sail panels or the A Pillars.

 

Okay. I gotcha. The the tweeter depth for those ds18s made it kind of difficult for mounting locations so I picked what I thought would be ok.

 

I know exactly what you mean Wife hates riding in my truck so we usually take the Camaro if we’re going somewhere together

 

Really depends on driver preference. I don’t like the high pitch from the tweeters so I keep them close to the same spot cause anywhere else is to much highs for me