Rotor replacement

17k miles on mine and the front rotors are done, any idea if the rotors are the same as a '21 model? overall diameter appears to be the same, but those are the only specs i have found so far. I would like to put some slotted/drilled rotors on it this go around.

 

Definitely not the same given the 6 lug pattern on the 22 vs 5 lug on the previous generation.

How did you cook a set of rotors in only 17k miles? Are they warped, and/or thickness is out of spec?

 

ok, didnt realize they were 5 lug prior. this is my first tundra

they are warped. though i do drive somewhat aggressively, apparently im not the only one running into the issue - https://www.torquenews.com/17612/20...are-their-confusion-early-brake-rotor-service

 

Agreed, I would get a second opinion on that. I had a shop try and tell me a set of rotors "couldn't be resurfaced", and I took it to a better shop and they told me the other shop was full of it. Saved me a few hundred bucks.

 

I have learned I can’t drive through a car wash when my rotors are hot. Im at the wash at least once a week. They seem to make rotors thinner these days so they warp pretty easy if you hit them with cool water. I drive pretty aggressive also.

 

Why isn't this being dealt with under warranty? 17k on rotors is crazy.

 

Correct me if I am wrong, but I believe brake pads, rotors, and tires don't fall under warranty because they are wear items. But yeah, 17k is pretty bad.

 

You sure they're warped and don't just have deposits/hotspots? Maybe try a quick bedding run on them and see if that clears them up (or makes them worse)

 

Yes brake parts are wear items, but should "wear" for a hell of alot longer than 17k

 

Isn’t falling rain or rain water for the most part pretty cool? So wouldn’t that be the effect as a car wash?

Idk about warped rotors. But I’m also nit the one driving your truck. But if it is indeed warped rotors I would still bring it up to the dealers attention since its only 17k miles. Nissan had issues with rotors on the titan an armada and they covered and fixed those issues.

 

Yea I would run that by the dealer. See if they do something for you. Brakes should not be cooked at 17k!

 

one of the comments in the article i linked mentioned the rotors being both thinner and lighter for reduced rotational mass to increase efficiency. I'm not going to bother turning them, they would just warp even quicker

 

I'd push for a warranty repair. If they gave me a hard time I'd call Toyota USA (or the country of your residence)

 

Dealers are now being held accountable for these sort of repairs under warranty. In the past they would make a calculated judgement and would make the repair and then just bill the manufacturer. That has changed drastically and toyota is denying claims more and more. But it.is on a dealer by dealer basis.

 

Are the rotors really lighter and thinner though? When I google 2022 Toyota Tundra brake rotors, the Torque News article is the only one that pops up. While it does line up with the symptoms you're having with your brakes, I'd do my due diligence before throwing new rotors at it. If you do a lot of stop and go driving, you can get hotspot deposits like I mentioned earlier, and that feels a lot like warped rotors.

 

One other possibility could be a sticking caliper. Unusual at 17k but could also explain overheating and warping. If you look at the rotor surface and one or more of them have a blueish instead of silver finish you could have a sticking caliper issue which would then be a warranty item.

 

Wear item.

 

Something is not right? I would guess that you probably stop fast and the lugs are WAY over torqued! I would see about getting them resurfaced from a respected outfit and then always check after tire rotation to see that the specs on torqueage is correct.

 

THIS 100%. If all your lugs are torqued to spec its hard to warp rotors. Unfortunately many tire rotations are done with an impact or as hard as the shop tech can spin it down. You have to use a torque wrench every time.

 

Even if they call it a wear item, 17k isn't acceptable. 50-60k out of rotors is when you're rough on them, in my car-guy-but-not-a-mechanic mind.

I'm at 63k on my 2020, not aggressive, towed a small camper across the country last year (NC to Ohio to Utah and back), and still at mid-level on brake wear.

 

I had to call them out three or four times and took my torque wrench with me all the time to prove it to them plus an 18 inch breaker bar and even with that I could not break some of them lose. Now they do not run them all the way with the air wrench and finish with the torque!

 

Ive had rotors and pads replaced under warranty through the dealership if they fail before 35k

 

17k is a defect, not wear.

 

Depends on use IMO. Some people go through brake parts like underwear.

 

Curious. How could too tight of torque lead to warping rotors?

 

https://itstillruns.com/overtorque-warp-brake-rotor-5672302.html

https://www.kaltire.com/en/what-does-it-mean-if-you-have-warped-rotors.html

 

I'm pretty aggressive I have never replaced pads/rotors due to wear or defect. I have had new brakes for over a year but the darn dealer installed new brakes that are still too new to trash.

lol

 

Best bet would be a set power stop drilled and slotted rotors with their pads. I’ve installed many sets for customers on older tundras and they never have an issue

 

We used to do this all the time on our older rigs. We noticed that if we came to a complete stop at a red light on hot rotors (pulling a boat with surge brakes through the foothills on state roads, then a poorly timed yellow light and your full pedal coming screaming from a 65mph - 0mph stop) the heat from the pad and rotor in static contact for that 60 seconds during the red light would super heat that specific section of rotor in contact with the pad disproportionately to the rest of the rotor. We'd have instant rotor warp and brake pedal pulse.

We learned we could "straighten" the rotor back out later (after removing the trailer and finding a good stretch of road) by doing high speed gradual braking (like 80mph - down to 20 mph) never coming to a complete stop and then accelerating back up to 80 and repeating the process. You could feel the pulse in the pedal go away, and you could manage the correct amount of force and heat to work the rotor back straight.

We also learned that if we had to come to a hard stop like that, it was best to stop 10 - 20 feet short of the line, and never let the truck come to a complete stop. We would just barley keep the wheels rolling during the red light, so we could keep the rotors evenly cooked, rather than sit still at the same point on the pads for 60 seconds.

 

Drives me crazy... ****ing tire jockeys...