Tow Hitch Bolt Snapped

So today, I was trying to install the trd pro rear sway bars. I tried to loosen the tow hitch bolt. They were seized and I was using my high impact torque wrench. After it finally loosened up abit, it snapped on me. There is like ½ of the bolt still inside the thread.

how would I go about this. Which screw extractor do you recommend for that bolt size? It’s the 19mm bolt.
I’ve never used screw extractor much, but assuming once I tap in the thread , would it have enough power to loosen it? My impact gun was struggling and it has 1100ft lb of bolt loosening.

any suggestions would greatly help. Thanks

 

Drop the spare, apply penetrating oil and heat and try running it the rest of the way in from the other side of the frame rail.

 

Thanks , I thought about going at the other side as well. Penetrating oil , what type is good? I was just using wd40 when it wouldnt budge , and shortly after it snapped.

so you think going from the back side is best? I would assume I would still use some sort of screw extractor but use it in clockwise instead of counter?

 

The bad news is, no extractor is ever as strong as the original bolt, so drilling and using an easy-out alone won’t get you far. I’d lean toward dropping the spare, prepping and welding a nut to the inboard part of the bolt. Then let it cool, soak it in penetrating fluid, and “back” it out that way. The sudden heat and then contracting from welding works wonders to free seized stuff up, but it does mean you need access to a welder along with the skills to use it correctly. Or maybe you have a buddy who is a welder??

 

Unfortunately I don’t know any welders.

 

Just get a good set of drill bits and a good center punch and drill through it. Use your smallest bit to drill all the way through and try a extractor with a little force, if that doesn’t work continue drilling through it and repeat with a larger extractor.

 

I like this stuff:


If I’m not mistaken, the end of the the bolt on the other side of the frame rail will look like this:


If so, you have a better chance of getting locking pliers on it.

 

That sucks. But I agree with @Txexplorer23 if you don’t have access to a welder. Soak it with PB Blaster and let it sit for a while. Then drill it out, progressively stepping up drill bit size until you are close to getting to the threads. Hit it with a propane or map gas torch, smack it with a punch, then try the biggest extractor you can fit. The smaller extractor will break off and then you are drilling harder steel to get it out. PITAB… ankle bone. Chase the threads with a tap and you should be golden.

 

oh I actually have pb blaster as well.
Yeah the back side looks like that. I remove my passenger side fine , but the driver side was the one that broke off.

oh and btw , I installed your bump stop the other day.

 

I find that the best penetrating oil is a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF, but the commercial stuff will work.

Before using penetrating oil use some heat on the frame. A propane torch works well. You may need a couple of heat and cool cycles. Then, as EDDO said, a good pair of locking pliers will probably get it out for you. If the heat doesn't do the trick then apply the penetrating oil and let it soak. Some combination of these things should do it.

 

I 2nd that, that stuff works pretty good. Not sure if any local stores sell it though, think I bought it online.

 

It smells good too!

 

In your case, without knowing a welder, I would heat it first and if that doesn’t work, drill out the center of the bolt. That will relieve pressure against the threads. Then soak it in PB blaster or an equivalent. Then try to get it out from the backside. You can always use progressively larger drill bits if necessary. If you look up cam gear removal on Subaru EJ25 motors you can see how they get those SOB’s off and that has been my baseline on bolt removal ever since.

 

woah , these are expensive. $30 a can.

 

they also have a version that has silicone in the ingredients. Have you tried that version? Wonder if it really works to coat the threads to prevent future corrosions? So basically a penetrating oil + anti seize combined

 

Damn. Someone else found the acetone/ATF secret. Yeah, in 50 yrs of twisting wrenches that's the best I've found. That with heat cycles, shocking the snot out of it and time. Repeat as necessary.

 

This^^^ You can get the non-spray cans of Kroil for about $20.00 on Amazon.

 

WD40 is actually a terrible lube. Its primary purpose is water displacement (hence the WD) and while it has lubricant properties initially, they quickly fade. A penetrating oil will serve this purpose better, and PB Blaster is readily available. I'm sure there are better ones, but it'll serve 90% of non-bedroom lube needs.

 

Don’t rule out the option of drilling out the bolt along with the threads and using a nut on the backside. This is, of course, if your other options have failed to save the threads.

 

Is it even possible to put nut in the back side?
My neighbor knows a welder, gonna see if the welding a bolt to loosen it might be the easier way before drilling into it.

 

Why did you need to remove the hitch bolt to install the anti sway bar? I could be wrong, but I don’t remember doing that on mine.

 

I read that I need to remove the first hitch bolt, to put the end link there. Unless I read wrong and did a totally unnecessary step.

 

I just looked at mine and you are correct.

 

Step #2 of the install instructions:

2. Install the Sway Bar End Links (Vehicles Equipped with an OEM Hitch). (a) Using a 19mm socket, remove the two forward- most hitch frame bolts...

 

haha luckily it was the right bolt. Had me second guessing lol.

 

So I had a question, just having the rear trd sway bar is good enough? Or did you guys seen a improvement with the trd over the stock front sway bar?

 

You need to remove the ones farthest from the hitch and replace them with a longer bolt.