DIFF DROP AFTER INSTALLING LEVEL KIT..

I recently installed a Rough Country strut level kit on my 2002 AC. How much of a diff drop can I do? Will there be problems if I modify a diff drop kit and make the spacers thicker?

Thanks...

 

First thing to do is take the Rough Country kit off. So many people that've posted here begging for help after destroying their vehicle using Rough Country kits.

Bent spindles, uppers, all kinds of damage. That cheap price is tempting, but it's cheap for a reason.

EDIT: I realize the above is kinda harsh. Sorry. But if you didn't go above 2.5" - 3" as your truck info states, no need to diff drop. Anything above that, you should be worried.

EDIT²: Typo fix

 

Ooooh, this was a really fun one w/Rough Country: https://www.tundras.com/threads/yikes-need-help.106033/

 

Cheap price? $350 (before labor and alignment) ain't exactly cheap. These struts were advertised as a 2 1/2" kit, but ended up being more like 3". They've been on for a couple months now with no settling to a lower height. I figure if it hasn't settled yet, it might not.
So thanks for the watered down attempt at elitist douchebaggery, shifty, but you didn't come close to answering either of my questions.

 

Cool story, bro.

I'm probably one of the least "elitist" people on here, plenty of dudes who I've met in person can vouch for that. Your attitude in response to my warning isn't how you get help or make friends around here.

Your question is answered. Most guys on here will tell you if you don't exceed 3" lift, you don't need a diff drop. You also don't need high-angle boots.

EDIT: But seriously, read the thread I linked, all 4 pages. Consider yourself lucky if you've had no issues yet.

 

Not sure how you're blaming Rough Country's "cheap" products based on the thread link you provided. This is obviously either improperly installed equipment, or improper equipment all together.

 

Don't concern yourself, shifty. Not here to make friends. Whether I need a diff drop or not was not the question. So, no...neither of my questions were answered. I'm sure you can find some place else to go and bash Rough Country.

 

I'm semi-new to the modified Tundra world (though I'm on my second 1st Gen Tundra), but I've been in 3rd Gen 4Runners and 1st Gen Tacomas for many years now and they share very similar chassis/front-end. (They're essentially the same with only a few minor differences)

It's been my experience that the diff-drop kit for this suspension design is engineered for maximum angle drop possible without causing interference elsewhere. I don't think you can even physically run taller spacers in the diff drop 'cause the diff starts to hit into stuff if you try to drop it more (aka, angle the front of the diff down) and bind up at the rear of the diff in its current position.

And it really doesn't get you very much actual drop at the diff (nor CV angle)...

At lifts over ~3", you'll also start to have other interference and angle issues on the coil/strut assemblies and control arms. Ball joints at too steep of angles and causing premature wear. Spindles hitting coils. Etc etc.

If you're looking to run higher than 2.5-3" of lift, you really should be looking at the drop-bracket type lift kits. They essentially drop the entire front axle down and put the CVs back into a better angle. This type of kit requires a lot more parts and work-- steering extension, taller knuckles (spindles) or extensions, longer shocks or extensions, etc etc. And a good drop bracket lift kit is going to run a lot more than $350.

 

Seems like we get a post like this every couple months. some things to note:

• rough country lifts are usually a "watered down" kit. they're cheap, it might work, maybe not, but it wont really every ride or handle nice.
• in my experience, with a 3" lift and no aftermarket upper UCAs, you will not end up with a good alignment. you'll be herding cats down the interstate, and it just feels "off"
• personally, I'm about $1100 into a suspension setup similar to your 3" lift (haven't updated my build thread) and I'm still not very happy with my alignment numbers. A proper lift is expensive.
• @shifty` may type a lot, and it may rub you the wrong way, but rarely does he say anything that isn't based in knowledge. I know it sucks to get told that the parts you just bought suck, but he is right.

 

Yeah but it really is for what you are trying to accomplish. The maintenance parts that probably should have been changed when lift went on cost more than 350.

 

I’ll attempt to clarify some of the comments here already.
1. Rough country has not had a great reputation for quality, design or durability with the first Gen products.
2. $350 for any suspension lifting solution for the front end is cheap. Really cheap. Most lift or level solutions for the front end of these trucks starts at $350 and goes way into the thousands. The only thing cheaper would be the pucks or spacers for the factory strut/coil setup.
3. If your truly at 3” of lift, you are in the major stress zone for the front suspension for these trucks. New upper control arms may be needed in order to obtain a proper alignment and provide the ability for the suspension to articulate properly. A diff drop (as was your original question) can help to correct some of the CV angle issues of such an aggressive lift. The standard diff drop kit is all that is needed to correct the angle. Some CV axle boots May need more robust clamps to keep them seated.

 

The thing is, I just needed a level kit that wasn't a puck or spacer. I got a little more than level with the RC loaded strut. A 1/2 to 1 inch spacer in the rear should level it up. But the alignment numbers are great, the ride is better than it was stock, no uneven tire wear, etc. I'm not having any issues. The question was how much diff drop can I do, and could I go thicker on the spacers. I have a 2000 AC with a Rancho Quicklift level kit and Diff Drop kit on it. I was wondering about the thicker spaces to give the CVs a little less angle. Wasn't sure if I could drop the front diff even more than the standard diff drop provides, but it doesn't sound like that can happen. I haven't installed the diff drop on the 2002 yet, and was kicking around the idea of machining thicker spacers.

 

"based in knowledge"? All he's done is hijack my thread with Rough Country bashing sessions. He didn't answer EITHER of my questions. Nothing he added is knowledgeable...or right! The level struts I installed aren't causing handling, clearance, or ride issues. Did you or shifty actually read my original post?

 

Good luck sir

 

There's a crossmember that the front differential pretty much sits on, so yes you kind of are limited on how far you can drop the diff by that -- unless you go with a drop bracket lift that cuts it out. Taller spacers on the front than regular diff drop spacers would just tilt the differential I'd think.

 

Thanks for the information. Doesn't really sound like a thicker diff drop spacer will work at all. What is the average diff drop spacer thickness, anyway?

 

Pretty sure that the one I have is a 1" spacer, got it from Toytec when I did coilovers before. When you drop the diff, you also have to put spacers in for the skidplate.

 

Even by RC standards that is the cheap kit. See image below. @shifty` wasn't being elitist or trying to belittle your budget. We all understand that everyone doesn't have a huge chunk of expendable income for mods, and there's nothing wrong with that.

I promise you, his "bashing" of RC was only meant as a good intentioned warning that you may run into problems with that kit, and him telling you that you didn't need the diff drop was because your questions weren't phrased in way that conveyed your intention. It came off as a newbie type question about how much of a drop you needed, so he answered it appropriately for that interpretation.







You don't need to be defensive, because he was doing his best to help you out. If you had explained a little more I know he would help with any knowledge he has on the situation. Something like "I realize the RC kit isn't the fanciest or best lift, but it fit my budget and I'm having good results so far. To clarify, I know I don't need a diff drop, but I'm thinking that I'd like to try and reduce strain on components if possible."

The only time any of the first gen guys are going to dog on your build is if you have a 2007+ truck. Ask me how I know.

 

Man, do I feel that one. I've been saving up for 2½ years now, only to buy my setup last month and immediately need to return it due to shipping damages.

The good part is "buy once, cry once". A couple of things came up in that time frame which flipped my original plans on their head, and a small windfall of potential funds that may allow a little room for something better.

Not everyone has funds growing out their ears. I damn sure don't. That's the sentiment behind the warning: I've seen how much unexpected damage from cheap or ill-designed suspension kits can cost.

 

Did I make a mistake buying the RC 2.5” strut leveling spacers for $75? Hmmn.

 

Probably not. Most of the comments and replies to this thread are due to poor reading comprehension.

 

Theres some thing about honey and flies or some shit, ah fuck it. You do you and see how it works out. Again, good luck with this.

 

Uh, you see the first four letters of username in this case? OP is not trying to hide anything.

 

The sad part is I wasn’t joking.

I’m not even trying to level. I’m just trying to compensate for saggy springs that won’t allow proper camber alignment.

I figured this was a cheaper way to get out of paying for new $400 springs.

I’ll see if they’re still off putting in the new LCAs before I go that route.

 

Taking reply to Lunch Table.

 

No, no. Wasn't getting defensive. Just surprised. I re-read my original post and still fail to see the complexity of the questions. I was expecting the answer to be more in the form of a dimension than in the form of an opinion on my choice of products. AGAIN, to clarify...I'm not having any problems with the level kit AND I'm not confused about whether I need a diff drop. Next time, I'll try to word it so that shifty can understand and you don't get so butt hurt.

 

You might have issues with the coil contacting your spindle especially on the stock UCA. Seems to be a recurring thing with 'em.

You're pairing them with 5100s? Can't remember what you put in the front if anything. Springs are the right way IMO... since you're not offroading I don't think spacers will make you die necessarily, but I still don't think it's the ideal route even on your truck.

 

OP, quit being a dick and ruining our name. That’s my job.