What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Well, I didn't want to do it, but it needed to get done. Rear driver tire was down 20% again today. 3rd time in 2 weeks, nothing obvious was showing. Hit with some soapy water after a full inflation and ... whoomp there it is! Like someone sending a smoke signal.

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I literally couldn't see anything, whatever was there was fully buried, had to move some rubber around to expose it.

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Marked, head is clearly visible. I thought it could be a flathead bit for a nut driver or similar?

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Unfortunately, nothing could get leverage on it. I also realized someone snaked my alligator vice grips which Would've probably been helpful. Used small flatheads wedging around the sides to fulcrum it up. No idea how long it was going to be, but wasn't stoked until I got it at this point, about 10 minutes in.

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Still no clue what the hell this is, it's about 1/4-3/8" thick, seems like alloy. Naturally, the slanted end was pointing out, which means the dull end punched the tire. Musta been going fast wherever I picked it up.

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Plugged and tested.

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I would've rather spent this 30-40 mins doing something else.

While popping it off, I remembered this is the wheel that took the key blank, and had a broken center cap, until @Double DC sent me a replacement a while back (thanks again!)

 

I guess I can add to this. I see Seafoam has a 'high mileage' engine formula for gas and crankcase that's supposed to help clear passages, dissolve varnish etc. I'm giving it a go. 6.5 oz into the crankcase, and drove for about 30-40 miles on the interstate holding 2000-2250 RPM to slosh it around. They reco putting about 100-300 miles on it. I've got a couple of trips soon, so I should be able to get that sooner than later. I can already see looking down through the fill tube, it's definitely liquified some of the varnish on the driver side head.

As much as I'd love to do the BG Dynamic to clean up my top-end, I don't think there's a reputable place near me setup to do it. Plenty of stores that offer their services, but I know the reputation of most, directly, and I wouldn't trust them with my vehicle.

 

I avoid the local high schoolers in my area for a car wash.

1. They creep me out; some of them look like they drink water from the Merrimack River. #DontEvenGoSwimmingThere
2. They do a horrible job.

I'd rather donate when they come by the local supermarket looking to raise funds.

 

That would be my uncle.... Both bumpers were SUPPOSED to be sandblasted and painted, but instead im pretty sure he just pocketed the money and had it painted because the rust is coming through. I like the look but both bumpers are rusted out . He also did some really terrible body work on the bed that he wrecked on his 3rd DUI. The bondo is showing through on the driver side taillight. So far with a little tuning because i can throw a little more timing at it, I'm down to 9.04 in the 1/8th. Far from beating the local turbo ls' but pretty damn fast for a street truck. Also the lowering kit goes on later this week, and I'm planning on getting electric fans pretty soon too. Looking to reach 8.8 .

 

Just finished ordering my Moog LCAs from Summit Racing. Hoping I'm not making another Bilstein mistake since they're like the last 2-3 in stock and coming from separate locations.

Torn between RockAuto, Summit and Amazon since in case I experience and issue in delivery. Amazon has no warranty and Rockauto is all automated which left me with Summit.

Maybe should have held out till tomorrow and gone with carparts.com if they'd price match, but I would've lost the sales tax free weekend.

Now the saga begins...

 

Noice! what gears you runnin?

 

Stock 3.91. Been thinking of going to 4.30, 4.56 or maybe even 4.88. Only issues are that I have issues holding tires now, this truck does see a bit of highway driving, and I think 4.88s are gonna kick rpms over 3000 @80mph. Still tempting though.

 

You shouldn't have any problems with Summit they're pretty decent.

 

I hope so. Usually, the last few items in stock is equivalent to the beat up box left on the pallet and if there’s a defect, they may give me a hard time since they now want a non-damaged box according to their return policy. Rock Auto is the same. What’s ironic is that most of the time they don’t box the retail box and it’s shipped that way.

Maybe I’m jumping to conclusions, but my luck hasn’t been the greatest lately.​

 

You and me both on the luck lately, especially w/shipping things.

I got burned with that last-in-stock and shipping items in their retail box, not box-in-box lately.

Happened with RA back in January, they did actually box-in-box IIRC for my 130A alternator, but it was the last one in stock per their site. I don't know that it was a warehouse issue, like they saved the worst looking box for last, it might have been b/c it was definitely the last unit in stock. But I'm pretty sure FedEx managed to destroy it, box beat to hell and no longer square, they cracked up the plastic cover, just bad all-around. Outer box arrived beat to hell, drenched in cologne or perfume of some sort. RA was cool about it though, told me to keep the part, then sent a new one 2-day.

At suspensionlifts.com/bilsteinlifts.com I ordered their last 5100 kit and some SPC arms. You could tell I got the last boxes of 5100s in inventory, and potentially the last drop blocks. 3 out of 4 of the 5100 boxes were beat to hell, blown-out ends, I lifted the boxes out of their shipping vessel, 1st one dropped right out. I had to unload with the box they came in on its side. Then the SPC arms arrived in the OEM box, which had a single piece of clear tape (not reinforced, regular clear packing tape) holding it shut, and those arms are heavy. The tape broke in transit, the box was visibly open when it hit my porch, loose parts everywhere (it'd been opened). One balljoint had its silica pack smashed to bits, fragments all up in the balljoint, and it was missing a castle nut and cotter pin. The drop blocks that shipped with the shocks had been previously opened, was lacking one of the two clamshells that hold everything in-place, parts bags ripped open, it was clearly used. Wasn't their fault, it was their warehouse, and they were cool about returns, but wtf?

FedEx is notorious for destroying stuff here. I expected better from UPS. Typically they'll at least re-tape opened boxes to prevent damage. Just my luck I guess...

 

Any idea what's different with the High Mileage treatment over the normal recipe? More concentrated?

 

That was my guess. I checked the MSDS for both products and it wasn't much help to decipher. They're doing a great job of obscuring what's in the product behind "proprietary blends"/confidential info. I'd guess the solvent numbers are higher by weight in the high-mile version.

 

Same here, but 35” tires. I think for now just gonna bump up to 4.10’s, Locker and 4.56’s later on. When/if you do gears, be sure and let us know what it does for your times on that 1/8th.

 

I just watched a YouTube video and the guy claims the numbers on the SDS are nearly identical. I think I'll just stick with the OG formula since it's cheaper. The high mileage treatment sounds a little like marketing B.S. to me.

 

Probably is, SDS numbers are identical, but unless someone has backdoor access to the info in HMIRA, there's no way to know.

Bought a couple of cans anyway, just to test out. Will see what happens, I guess... If it's anything good, I'll holler.

 

Detailed it.

 

Fantastic wheel and tire combo for these trucks. Very nice looking rig.

 

Thanks. 18” OEM 4th gen 4Runner wheels with 275/70/18 tires, for those who are wondering. The different offset on these wheels caused upper control arm rubbing issues, so I am also running 1.25” Spidertrax wheel spacers up front. I now only get slight rubbing issues at low speed reverse with the 1.5” front level lift.

 

Switching the white lettering inside will fix your rubbing!

 

So uh…

 

So I got into these trucks having used them for work over the past few years...as a added benefit, there are little gems laying around the warehouse that are ripe for the picking ... So this cap came off a red tundra that a previous employee totalled...been sitting in the weeds for the whole 4 years I've worked for this construction company and now it's mine..just have to finish painting it black

 

video. We want video of engulfing plumes of seafoam smoke. Otherwise... it didn't happen.

 

Well I ate my words. Wal-Mart was out of the OG Seafoam. I've never seen them out of that before. I bought a can of the High Mileage instead. The RAV4 is due for an oil change so I added 4.5 oz to the crankcase.

Also, they are now selling Value Size Fluid
Film for the same price as the smaller cans. I approve.

 

How much was the high mileage Seafoam? I paid $9 and some change for mine at the LAPS.

 

$10.58. It seems they have raised the price of OG Seafoam too. I remember it always being around $7. It's now $8.48 online.

 

So uh… anyone happen to know where to get instructions for old TRD parts? I can’t find anything I. TIS for any of the parts

 

I buy online at Advance auto, then slap coupons on it. But the coupons aren't always applicable. I just happened to hit a sweet spot this weekend that let me get things around $9.50 with digital coupon, and store pickup.

 

I'll bite (as usual)
What's this one for? Think you may have mentioned previously but I can't keep up?
Looks to be brand new.

 

Or how bout a straight trade for the locker with the 4.56's. I'll even cover the shipping.

 

The fan is blowing on the condenser for the AC. The engine radiator is behind the AC condenser. They're not tied together.

The AC condenser itself has fins and looks similar to the engine radiator. The condenser itself is technically a radiator too, it removes heat and condenses the refrigerant.