Overheating while idling. Recent new waterpump and thermo

Didn't quite overheat but it got unusually hot. New thermo and waterpump recently. Some dried white coolant splatters around. I've read these radiators like to crap out at some point. Truck has 184k. Air bubble? Coolant is a bit lower than when it was topped off during waterpump./thermo job.

 

When you installed the new thermostat did you put the jiggle vale at the correct position?

 

No :/

 

Also possible things weren't properly burped after install and you've got an air bubble. But like FGV said, if the t-stat wasn't clocked correctly, air can't clear. Would explain the "loss" of coolant too - you had an air bubble, some of the bubble worked out, now your fluid level dropped.

Sounds like you've got some work ahead of you. Hope you bought OEM-level water pump and not some cheap crap from scAmazon or the big box store.

 

PS - got any pics of the spatter you're talking about?

And did you check for any cloudiness in the overflow tank, just in case your radiator did spring a leak where the transmission line runs through it, which ultimately causes 'pink milkshake' and will kill the transmission?

 

PPS - one other thought, you didn't use a different color coolant, did you? These engines are supposed to get Toyota red or "Asian red" for non-Toyota brand coolants.

Mixing different colored coolants can be disastrous, cause sludge, and even using the wrong coolant that has additives like Silica and Borate can cause massive issues.

 

I bet that's your issue but should be an easy fix.

 

All OEM. May be... I'll ask my mech, he did the job

 

Good to know mixing is a big deal. I'll get some red from toyota

 

I don't know exactly because my mechanic did the thermo and waterpump the same time as the timing belt. I'll have him check it out.

I'll post some pics of the splatter when I'm back!

 

I'd expect a mechanic to get that one right. Maybe it's just air bubbles in the system that need to work themselves out. Could be a bad t-stat also. But we've seen overheats from people failing to 'clock' the t-stat correctly in the past, so that's the main driver behind you hearing this.

 

Did you have that done before or after frame swap I don't remember? They drain the cooling system and refill after frame swap.

 

Probably radiator and fan clutch

 

Yep this is my next culprit too, fan clutch. $100 part and can be replaced in an hour, just did mine.

 

Second pretty much everything that's been said already.

Regarding coolant loss/ splatter, you might get some that comes out from the water pump weep hole, that's normal but won't persist. Also I would check the spring clamps for the radiator hoses. They can start to leak only when the cooling system is under pressure. I replaced my radiator and had some coolant splatter at the top hose. Turns out the spring clamp had failed and was leaking once the truck got up to temperature.

 

Only reason I wasn't going there was the splatter comments and the fact someone just replaced the water pump and t-stat, along with the fluid loss commentary.

It's not a very typical thing to see a fan clutch go out on the 1st gens. A couple of guys have replaced theirs for sure, but we have plenty of 1st gen dudes at 300k+ miles and still running the original fan clutch.

 

Good memory. Did the timing belt/water pump/thermo after the frame swap. I was kinda bummed because I noticed they filled it nicely with Toyota red and knew it was going to get drained again soon

 

I mean, you can re-use coolant. Just run it through some cheesecloth to filter out any solid particulate.

 

with regards to spring clamps and original hoses....the clamps tend to leave their imprint on the hoses......put the clamps back on the hose in the exact position they where in......otherwise the hose may leak a little.

 

First off, that bulge where the hose meets the radiator is a sign you should replace it.

Second, the spots I'm seeing looks like what I'd expect with some overheating action.

third, your reservoir appears to be at the low end fill line.

 

New radiator hoses incoming!

I've been swapping out the vacuum hosing slowly too. All the rubber is starting to go everywhere all at once hah.

 

It happens...

Warning on the passenger side hose: Don't install backwards. One end is shorter than the other IIRC. Other members have found out the hard way when the hose was getting rubbed by the serp belt.

 

2024...
96 degree day. Low speeds driving around a southern city. Thermo shows 3/4 to red. I stop and check it out and we're bubbling again! Probably just because its hot as fuck out. Maybe the radiator isn't as efficient at 207k.

No signs of leaks, fans running, new upper and lower hoses, Toyota coolant.

I think its just really hot. If it keeps persisting I'll assume the radiator is just not as effective as it once was.

Voltage is running a little low too (just over half on the gauge). AC fading out. I think the heat is literally too much for it now, it's fighting.

 

Classic symptoms of a bad fan clutch.

 

your idea "hot" is nothing compared our idea of Hot. My truck idles 7-8 hours a day in the 100* (feels like 105) heat. (It's so hot now, I've noticed a drop in fuel efficiency while idling)

I will say my fan clutch wasn't "bad" per se but it definitely was not in good shape. After I got the truck hot I could spin the fan relatively easily (almost a full rotation)

 

Heat index 106 in DC... I'd say its hot!

 

When I start the truck, the fan starts spinning immediately, but when I turn it off, it spins for maybe 5 seconds.
When off, there's no play in the fan and there's resistance when I move it around.

I also checked the transmission fluid and oil -- no coolant leaking anywhere else.

 

Also symptoms of a partly blocked radiator. Or tstat or radiator cap.