What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

And the original OEM harness remains intact, uncut?

If so, yeah, that's really weird then. I wouldn't expect too many, if any, discrepancies. Like, we've seen here on this forum in other cases with our trucks, the DC overhead console being one, where some use the exact same 3x3, 3x4, or 4x4 plug (I forget), but the pinout is different, making true plug-n-play impossible without re-pin. Like, the power wire for one member was in the correct spot, but the other wires for temp etc. weren't. I can link up a thread if it's interesting, but if you already checked pinouts for donor/recipient and confirmed there's not much point.

The only time I've ever seen volume/fade controls get locked out is in certain special cases where Bluetooth is used for audio, and the device locks out the volume control on the HU. Only on aftermarket though, never OEM.

 

TPMS light today. Found rear driver was ~19psi. I had it patched from inside a while back after I took a key blank in it, and removal left me replacing two wheel studs, fun times. Curious if the patch is giving way, or if I just took something else in the tire.

Re-aired to 29 and 32psi respectively. Bet I took something in the tire. Dammit. I just need to get off my ass and buy new tires.

 

Looks like a vehicle key.

 

This was the interior piece I replaced. Very easy install. Pulled the door panel off and swapped out. Have to make sure the new trim is tight against the panel and not folded over at all, and then bend the tabs and reinstall. Both side maybe 30 minutes.

 

Yup. Flip key/sidewinder key. Same that VW/Audi and others use.

 

That was it, just the "wiper" at the top of the door panel, on the door card/interior side?

I really expected the rubber channel that goes around the outer part of the door to be the prob.

 

That's all I changed out. I think that the velvet on the inside gets worn and that "wiper" gets flimsy and causes some of the window rattle. I think they were $30/side.

 

The 2003 Tundra that I bought new came with two door lock key fobs and I have long marveled at the fact that they continue to work to this day. In fact, I've never opened one to check the button battery until a few minutes ago. I have noticed lately that I need to be closer to the truck for the fob to actuate the locks, so I just replaced the 2025 button on my primary use fob. That's a remarkable 19 years of continuous use! And it still worked!

As an experiment, I'm going to leave the original battery in my second fob unmolested to see how many more years it will function.

• Compare this to my wife's 2017 Highlander key fobs that have needed the button batteries replaced twice already. I'll note that the original 2025 button for the Tundra was made in Japan. The replacement was made in Indonesia. Hmmm....

 

Does your door card show these pressures? Just wondering how much difference there is in the early vs late 1st gens.

 

To follow up, I should mention that the new 2025 button battery doesn't actuate the door locks any farther from the truck than the original 2003 issue I just removed. It opens questions about the signal receiver, whatever that might be. Does anyone know how it works? Originally, I think the door locks actuated at 15-20 feet from the truck. Might there be a deteriorating battery in the receiver?

 

I was just looking around craigslist the other day and didnt realize they made a 4.0L V6 VVT-I for our trucks. 6 speed manual too. Seems to be pretty rare!

 

Very interesting, thanks for the information. I'm okay with unbolting parts I can bolt back but the thought of opening a headliner gives me the willies. But maybe Toyota made it more straightforward. I'm guessing that running the antenna/wires into the panel over the door might work too.

 

There is a FGT v6 MT which parks on the street near me. Has a manual 4x4 too which is extra cool. As a bench seat guy, though, and especially as a dad of two, I really do like auto for mine. It’s wide enough to actually sit 3 across in reasonable comfort. Which is not easy to find in a vehicle and makes the RC a wonderful and capable truck for truck stuff.

EDIT: unless I’m possibly conflating two trucks as far as the MT w 4x4 knob. That may have never been an option.

 

This would be a great howto if you have photos. Did you extend it? I’ll need to take my dash apart again soon and I may look at this wire myself. Range isn’t great for me but not terrible.

 

@empty_lord , I have a new integration relay to install to attempt to fix my headlights. Any chance you have any clue on if/how these guys do audio controls? I wonder if I have any hope of upgrading the integration relay to a later model year and still getting everything to work but paving the way for audio. I tend to think I’m better off bypassing that guy and going direct from buttons to clock spring to aftermaket translator module.

 

I have a FGT V6 MT 4x4 as well, but mine is the 3.4 5VZ-FE. The one I was talking about is a 1GR-FE 4.0 MT which i didnt know they made.

 

Ah, thank you, that part I did not gather, thanks for the clarity. Are the specs better on the 1GR-FE?

 

Looks like 236hp vs 190hp, and it was only available 2005-06.

 

It's been stated in the past that V6 manuals that were 4x4 in 05-06 were rare back then, and even more rare now. I rarely see them online. Seems like a sweet combination.

 

Sweeter would be a V8 manual 4×4.

 

You'd just need to pop off the A-pillar plastics. Stealing pics from another forum, where someone extended the antenna into the A-pillar using extra wire.:

 

Hmmm. Starting with the factory V8 auto 2wd regular cab, I'd need a conversion bellhousing and the transmission and all the clutch hardware and pedal stuff. The ECU would stay the same, right? I know its been done a few times. I think I'd do the manual conversion first and then decide if I want 4WD. I use mud chains right now if I'm going over soft terrain and those things will dig furrows if I'm pulling something through soft soil.

 

Thanks, so we do extra wire. I’ll be forced to use an 090II connector . And a heat shrink label indicating “Antenna”

 

Thanks. (Got a link to the other site/thread?)

I'd like to see that.

 

I do, but listen to what @5N0W808 said about 10 replies up from here with regard to the antenna location. I wasn't aware they were wrapping it around the steering column, I think a couple of us were wondering where the hell the antenna was wired off to.

Link to the other thread with links to "more invasive" tactics to extend the antenna is here.

 

BEST MPG one way to work (23 miles) so far.

 

Latest cractivities.

 

Nothing crazy just a little maintenance and cosmetic changes. Changed the serpentine belt, removed running boards as well as the center caps. Also painted the plastic trim on the rear bumper.

 

The integration relay does nothing for audio controls other than provide the illumination for the switches

 

So did some camping last week and had a strange issue pop up. I was going through some mud and bouncing around and started hearing a clicking or pinging sound, almost like something was binding.

So I looked around and didnt see anything, and from what i determined, it happens in 2wd, 4wd and when im making the suspension go up and down a bit. On the highway it completely went away, probably because the suspension wasnt really doing anything. The strange thing was that it seemed to happen when I would go through some mud/water. When the truck had a chance to dry a bit the problem seemed to disappear. Then when I went through a puddle or mud again the noise would come back. The rest of the trip went fine and I made it home, but havent had a chance to really look at anything yet. Just rinsed off the truck and figured ill get at it this weekend or at least until I threw the issue to you guys to see if anyone had any ideas.

Oh also, it made the noise when the suspension moved but sporadically, so not like a drive shaft that might make noise with each revolution. It was only a couple clicks here and there. It also sounded like it was definitely coming from the front of the truck, possibly driver side.

Thanks!