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HELP! AC issues w/2019 Tundra

Discussion in '2.5 Gen Tundras (2014-2021)' started by Impulsefishing, Aug 2, 2022.

  1. Aug 2, 2022 at 3:54 PM
    #1
    Impulsefishing

    Impulsefishing [OP] New Member

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    Hi everyone! I am new to the forum. Hoping to find a good mechanic on here that is familiar inside and out with the AC system on the 2019 Tundras. I hit a deer going about 30mph. Front end damage was the typical bumper, grill, head light, radiator, and a bunch of brackets, etc. I took the truck to the body shop. They replaced all damaged components. One of them being the AC line that has a sensor mounted to it. I get my truck back and noticed a couple days later that if I start my truck and let the AC run it would only blow hot humid air. This is while the truck was in park. If I put it in drive and go down the road, I would eventually hear a click around 30-40mph and then I would have instant ice cold air. If I slowed down and stopped at a light or stopped for fast food my truck would start blowing hot humid air again. So, I took it back to the body shop. They found a code saying the sensor on the AC line that they replaced was bad. They replaced the sensor again. The code went away but the issue was still there. So they took the truck to the local Toyota dealer. The dealership had the truck for 3 days and couldn’t duplicate the problem. They then tried to tell me that was normal operation and if they changed anything it would be the sensor again. My body shop went a picked the truck up then decided to put my old original sensor back on the truck. They said the only reason it got replaced was because the bracket that is attached to the sensor and line was damaged from the deer. So the old sensor went back on. I’ve had the truck back for 2 weeks now with no issues. Then today I go to leave from work and the AC wasn’t getting cold. Start driving down the road and set a timer. Took exactly 10min then I heard something click and instant ice cold air. I get home, put the truck in park and within 1 minute it started to get warmer. I left it running, went inside, came back 5min later and the truck was blowing hot humid air. My body is out of ideas and wants to take it to a different dealership. Help please! I’ve never had this issue prior to hitting that deer. Body shop says there wasn’t any other AC components that were damaged by the deer. One more thing that I noticed. The hotter it is outside, the more it happens. I did have 3 days last week over 92 degrees outside and it worked fine. Today was 96. The Freon was all checked by the body shop and again by the dealership. I know when I take it to the next dealership they probably won’t be able to duplicate it. Can anyone help diagnose this? Thanks!

    Ryan
     
  2. Aug 2, 2022 at 4:03 PM
    #2
    MadMaxCanon

    MadMaxCanon New Member

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    Too many, but not enough....
    Did you check the ac system relay? I had a similar problem on a previous truck and it was a bad relay.
     
  3. Aug 2, 2022 at 4:11 PM
    #3
    Impulsefishing

    Impulsefishing [OP] New Member

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    No I haven’t messed with anything since it’s still considered to be covered under insurance due to the deer. Neither the body shop or the dealership mentioned anything about a relay. This would make since because when it comes back on I hear a click and then the air is instantly cold. I just don’t understand why it would start to blow hot again once I slow down or put the truck in park. I will definitely have them look into the relay though.
     
  4. Aug 5, 2022 at 2:40 AM
    #4
    ubserved

    ubserved New Member

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    I feel for you. That said, the AC in these Tundras aren't that great to begin with. I have had numerous other makes of pickups over the years and the AC in them would go from zero to morgue in less than 15 seconds or so. I had a remote start installed with my alarm system just so I could pre cool the cabin for five minutes before I would leave because down here in Texas, it gets HOT. Being on this topic, I know it's not a fix for the OP, but any suggestions on how to get the AC to be more responsive? Meaning is the factory freon just not all that great? Is there an aftermarket product that would be better to swap out to?
     
  5. Aug 5, 2022 at 6:33 AM
    #5
    Buckaroo

    Buckaroo New Member

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    Tough to diagnose an intermittent problem - needs to be "doing it" when your testing. By the sensor, I think you mean the ambient temperature sensor. It is located low on the front of the condenser. Wiring issue can also generate sensor code so I would do a visual on that wiring and do a wiggle test when the ac is running and see if it cuts out. Would also do a visual on the air conditioning pressure switch and wiring which is a little higher on the condenser. Wiggle test that, too. Have attached schematic showing where they are located. Might want to just replace the relay to take that off the table - cheap and easy to do.
     

    Attached Files:

    texasrho83 likes this.
  6. Aug 5, 2022 at 7:28 AM
    #6
    ScenicRoute

    ScenicRoute New Member

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    Really strange. Sorry I can’t be of more help. My initial check would be refrigerant level. But I guess that was confirmed.
     
  7. Aug 5, 2022 at 12:48 PM
    #7
    Impulsefishing

    Impulsefishing [OP] New Member

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    Replaced AC Magnetic Clutch relay and it’s still doing it. Any other ideas? Magnetic clutch going out? Wiring? Any other sensors for the 2019 that might be the culprit? So far the issue has happened the last 4 days in a row. If I’m looking at the correct part then the AC magnetic clutch is not engaging when the truck is in park. If I drive and get above 40-50mph then the cold air will start coming through. If I slow down below 15-20mph for more than a minute or 2 then it starts blowing hot air and will not recover until I get back up over 40-50mph.
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2022
  8. Aug 5, 2022 at 7:28 PM
    #8
    panicman

    panicman Everyone remain calm.

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    Man. That his the weirdest issue with AC I think I’ve heard of. Please post the solution when you find it.
    And next time… wait until at least November!
     
  9. Aug 6, 2022 at 4:35 AM
    #9
    Buckaroo

    Buckaroo New Member

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    Yes, AC pressure switch per post #5 above.
     
  10. Aug 6, 2022 at 5:00 AM
    #10
    texasrho83

    texasrho83 DGAF#1

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    What are the variables that change when you speed up? Voltage...forced air volume....what else? I'd look into those areas of the AC system that change when those variables do...
     
  11. Aug 6, 2022 at 5:09 AM
    #11
    KNABORES

    KNABORES Sarcasm incoming

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    Did they replace the condenser when they did the work? It’s the radiator looking thing in front of the engine coolant radiator. I would think it’s the most likely part of the system to sustain damage in the accident you described. It’s also air flow dependent. Another dumb question would be, did they reinstall the engine fan shroud, upper and lower? Without the shroud, airflow through the condenser and the radiator will be poor sitting still.
     
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  12. Aug 11, 2022 at 12:05 PM
    #12
    OpieTaylor

    OpieTaylor New Member

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    On my tuck the A/C condenser is in front of the radiator so I can’t see how the radiator had to be replaced without having to replace the condenser.

    If they did replace the condenser then the whole system lost pressure and many errors could pop up.

    Are you sure about the click? I had a vehicle that wouldn’t cool without moving above 40mph because the electric fans went out and the condenser needed the airflow from those fans, it still got enough air that it wouldn’t overheat.

    Maybe the fan clutch or shroud is not proving enough airflow.
     
  13. Aug 13, 2022 at 5:47 AM
    #13
    Impulsefishing

    Impulsefishing [OP] New Member

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    Update: I’ve dialed in on when it fails. If the outside ambient temp is above 92 with high humidity the system won’t work at all. If the temp is between 88-92 with humidity the system only works when I am driving above 40mph. If there is very low humidity regardless of temperature then it is very intermittent with failure. If it’s below 88 with normal or low humidity then everything works as advertised. I never have fan air loss, only temp loss. When the cold air kicks in it is always humid air and smells musty. Condenser, AC line with sensor (x3), magnetic clutch relay have all been replaced. Body shop pulled and weighed Freon numerous times to ensure no leaks and properly serviced. Body shop ordered fan clutch assy to replace this coming Wednesday.
     
  14. Aug 13, 2022 at 9:31 AM
    #14
    OpieTaylor

    OpieTaylor New Member

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    If you feel like it’s trying to work but sucks when your not moving, then I would describe it as low efficiency and look at condenser airflow, or too much oil in the system, or maybe moisture.

    If you feel like the compressor is not engaging when in park or driving slow then I would check that and check inputs on why the truck is not telling the compressor to engage.

    If it were my truck, I would pop the hood and turn it on and see if the compressor is spinning, switch to defrost see if comes on. Wiggle the pressure switch on top of the replaced condenser/ replaced pressure switch? per post #5.

    The musty smell is just from a wet evaporator that is sweating, maybe combined with a dirty cabin air filter. The sweating is because the Freon isn’t decompressing correctly to keep it cold and from sweating.

    The question is why isn’t the Freon being decompressed correctly? Low efficiency, or not being compressed correctly.

    Side bar: I think 2019 switched over from 134a refrigerant to 1234yf. This change caused A/C efficiency problems, and the 2019 condenser had to be redesigned and omitted sharing space for a transmission cooler.

    So the 2018 Tundra with same everything else as 2019 has different refrigerant and condenser.

    Was correct refrigerant used
    Was correct condenser used
    Was the condenser OEM Toyota, or possibly less efficient after market one that merely fits correctly.
     
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2022
  15. Aug 13, 2022 at 10:38 AM
    #15
    Impulsefishing

    Impulsefishing [OP] New Member

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    OpieTylor,

    I will talk with the body shop to make sure they used the correct refrigerant. I do know they used all Toyota parts because they got all the parts from the Toyota dealerships around the area. I don’t exactly know what I’m looking at but when it happens in park and I look at what I think is the fan clutch (or magnetic clutch assembly), it seems as if the clutch is not engaging. Temperature is definitely causing whatever is happening. My system works completely fine if the temperature is below 88 with normal/low humidity. For example, I drove to town. Temp was 94 with high humidity. A storm came through lowering the temp to 86 and my AC kicked on. Once the storm was over and the temp got above 88 again my AC stopped working again regardless of what speed I was doing
     
  16. Aug 20, 2022 at 5:31 AM
    #16
    agrestic1

    agrestic1 New Member

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    Any update on this ??
     
  17. Aug 22, 2022 at 10:23 AM
    #17
    Impulsefishing

    Impulsefishing [OP] New Member

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    Fan clutch was replaced. Problem still exists. This time they were able to duplicate the problem and said the compressor was not engaging at all while the truck was in park and it was blowing hot air for them. They ordered a compressor. Truck goes to the shop tomorrow for install
     
  18. Aug 22, 2022 at 11:24 AM
    #18
    agrestic1

    agrestic1 New Member

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    Thanks, hopefully that takes care of it...
     
  19. Aug 22, 2022 at 7:51 PM
    #19
    Jeff_5_7

    Jeff_5_7 New Member

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    What about the ambient air temperature sensor in the front of the truck? Is it working properly? It monitors the air temp outside. Is the display for the outside temperature on the gauges working correctly? This sensor would have been right in the damaged area and is not connected to an AC line or anything.

    Has the truck been hooked up to Techstream and the AC Amplifer (AC ECU) been scanned for trouble codes? If it is not happy with an input it can store trouble codes for the AC system. Techstream is one of the only ways to see them. Most regular OBD scanners will not see these trouble codes.

    If the air is good and cold when the compressor actually kicks on, it makes me think the compressor is fine and you have an issue with the AC Amplifier not correctly sending the signal to engage the clutch/ clutch relay. Have you tired jumping/forcing the relay closed 100% and verifying you always have cold air? This would verify the compressor is working fine when you force the clutch to always be engaged.

    The ambient air temp sensor has an input to the AC ECU and is listed as a possible sensor for when AC is not producing cold air. From reading I think this sensor has a controlling input when using the AC in the "AUTO" Mode, it monitors the outside,inside temp and automatically turns AC on/off to maintain the Auto set temp.
    upload_2022-8-22_21-50-2.jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 22, 2022
    ColoradoTJ and agrestic1 like this.
  20. Aug 28, 2022 at 4:23 AM
    #20
    Impulsefishing

    Impulsefishing [OP] New Member

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    The ambient temperature sensor has been changed. They put a new compressor on the truck and sent it to the dealership to have them go through everything. It was hot and humid when they checked everything out. Apparently the compressor has fixed it. Picking the truck up on Monday. Fingers crossed
     
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  21. Sep 1, 2022 at 3:27 PM
    #21
    reywcms

    reywcms New Member

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    Where's the 50amp relay located? My ac just went out (stopped blowing cold) and I've been searching for it no luck. Diagram shows fuse block b. Im gonna try the relay then the pressure switch. Can the pressure switch be removed with out draining the system?
     
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2022
  22. Sep 1, 2022 at 6:39 PM
    #22
    reywcms

    reywcms New Member

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    Bumping this up
     
  23. Sep 2, 2022 at 7:13 PM
    #23
    Jeff_5_7

    Jeff_5_7 New Member

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    Which 50 Amp relay are you referring to?
     
  24. Sep 2, 2022 at 7:14 PM
    #24
    reywcms

    reywcms New Member

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    All good found the clutch relay. But didn’t fix the issue so I’m going to take it in to see what the deal is.
     
  25. Sep 2, 2022 at 7:21 PM
    #25
    Jeff_5_7

    Jeff_5_7 New Member

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    I assume your relay is good but the clutch isn’t staying locked in? (Relay not staying closed)
     
  26. Sep 2, 2022 at 7:52 PM
    #26
    reywcms

    reywcms New Member

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    Well not sure what’s happening. No cold air. Swapped relays nothing so next checking pressure etc
     
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  27. Sep 6, 2022 at 6:40 AM
    #27
    Impulsefishing

    Impulsefishing [OP] New Member

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    Your clutch relay and the 50amp AC relay are 2 different relays. The clutch relay is simple to change. The 50amp relay is in the center towards the left looking at your fuse box. It doesn’t look like any of the other relays in there. I don’t know how to change it but I located it there when I was dealing with my issues.
     

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