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HOW TO: Wire up your LED/aux lights to work with CAN-BUS driven hi/low/parking headlights.

Discussion in '3rd Gen Tundras (2022+)' started by 99ways2die, Jul 20, 2022.

  1. Jul 20, 2022 at 9:02 AM
    #1
    99ways2die

    99ways2die [OP] New Member

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    This info is applicable to Platinum/1794/Capstone models with CAN-BUS LED headlights.
    It may or may not apply to SR5/Limited models, but I have not yet seen their headlights and/or their wiring, and I do not know if they are the more advanced "smart" (let's call it that) headlights, or the standard regular-wired ones.

    2022 Platinums come with nice LED headlights, but they're almost too nice (and too expensive).
    These lights are CAN-BUS driven, meaning that they only have 12V constant power wires, and a few thin wires in their connector.

    So, you got yourself a light bar (or more) and you wish to have it come ON when your high beams or low beams (or side lights) are on - how do you do that?
    (with old/regular lights, you'd just tap into your high beam wire on the headlight connector and use that as a trigger...not so here with CAN-BUS headlights)

    This is how:
    I found only one device that can read the CAN-BUS signal, and provides a 12V output when a function is performed by the system.
    Company name is CANM8 out of UK.
    They have a variety of products, but the 2 main models we're interested in are:
    Canm8 Cannect Highbeam (CAN Bus High beam Interface)
    https://www.ncs-systems.com/canm8-highbeam.html
    Canm8 Cannect IDR8 (CAN Bus 8 Output Interface)
    https://www.ncs-systems.com/canm8-idr8.html
    (NCS is the lowest-priced seller I could find (quick shipment to US as well))

    The 1st one has only 1 output - high beam. IDR8 (which is what I bought) has multiple outputs, but we'll concentrate on high, low and side light outputs here.
    I strongly suggest you buy the optional "contact-less CAN bus reader" so that you won't have to cut or splice your wiring at all (which can be done, but usually tricky as there isn't too much extra wiring to allow for easy splicing).

    Wiring:
    **Some basics of wiring will be omitted here; I assume you know how to do most of these things, and if not..."google it."
    Wire up your lights, using the preferred relay wiring method. Now you have a wire lead to the relay which when energized will power on your lights. You can wire your lights directly to the high beam trigger (we'll use high beams only here as example), or you can get more fancy with 3-way switches for better control. More on that below.
    CANM8 device needs to be powered by constant 12V+ source (per instructions), but you can also power it with "accessory" 12V+, so that it's only ON when your car/accessory is ON. I tapped into the top dashboard 12V cigarette outlet as it's only on when the truck is in accessory/on/running. It's also easy and convenient to access.
    Once you have power to the CANM8 device, you need to find CAN-BUS "high" and "low" wires in the vehicle system, between your ECU and the device/network you're using. Do not try to use the CAN-BUS wires on your ODBII connector-I tried and it wasn't picking up any signal (b/c it's an "end connection" and no info from ECU to lights flows that way).
    Manufacturer calls for connecting the CAN-BUS wires to as close to the truck's ECU, to ensure "strong signal" and that it picks up any and all CAN-BUS network signaling. I didn't look for ECU yet, and since I was already working with headlights and was running wiring front engine bay to the cab, I decided to use the CAN-BUS wires on the headlight itself for trigger input (driver side CAN-BUS high/low wires are white and purple).
    With the contact-less reader you simply place it over the CAN-BUS wires, then run the wires back to the CANM8 device. Now, use the output wire from the CANM8 device (high beam trigger output) to connect to your relay (or switch).
    [​IMG]

    End result: when your high beams are turned on (or flashed) the CNM8 device reads this output instantaneously, and provides 1Amp(max) 12V+ to the output wire, which then turns ON your light bar. High beams OFF...your light bar is OFF.

    My setup:
    I use the IDR8 device (for multiple outputs).
    Bumper led light bar to relay, then to a 3-way DPDT ON-OFF-ON switch (I use OTTRAW switches). Top switch position is fed by the CANM8 output trigger wire, or when the switch is in "up" position the lights turn on/off with my high beams. Middle switch position - lights are off no matter what. Bottom switch is fed by constant 12V+, so when switched "down" the light bar is ON regardless of any other condition.

    My amber fog lights are set up is a similar way. Top switch position is connected to CANM8 "side lights" output, which makes the fog lights come on any time the side/parking lights are on (so I can have my parking lights on, OEMM fog light on or off, fog lights). When parking lights are on, the fog lights come on with them (and with OEM driving lights). Middle position is OFF, and bottom turns them on independently of anything else.
    Here's my switching and location (this is best/only? place where I could fit a 3 switch panel):
    [​IMG]
    As you can see "light bar" is always on AUTO/top position to turn on with high beams automatically.
    Amber "fog lights" are off, and I can choose to run them auto on with side lights.
    My interior (red) lighting is wired/switched the same way (although wired differently and not via the CANM8 device).
    The 2 round button switches above are for my axillary back up lights (mounted under the rear bumper). I used the trailer hitch wiring plug to tap into, so it doesn't use the CANM8 (albeit it can be done that way as well). Mine are used with dual current limiting diodes, to achieve this:
    When truck is put in "R" the aux lights come on with my back up lights; When not in "R" I can turn the aux lights on with the left round button switch; I can also flash them with the momentary small round switch (right side) if I want to - at any time. Dual diodes ensure that pressing the switches on any any time *during driving/etc) do not trick the truck into thinking that it's in "reverse."

    Last but not least, here's my power distribution.
    Circuit breaker from batt (optional; I think it is as main disconnect switch really), BlueSea 6x fuse panel; all lights/relays get it's power from this:
    [​IMG]

    Relay block/mount:
    [​IMG]

    And again, perhaps SR5/Limited wiring is simple and "old fashioned" which doesn't require a CAN-BUS interface for trigger wire output, but any and all CAN-BUS lights (seems that all new vehicles do this now, not only Toyota) need something to pick up output signal, and provide trigger outputs.
    CANM8 is the only interface I found; not widely known in US (according to them I am the 1st US 2022 Tundra user of their device(s)...and very few use it here to begin with).
    Despite our Tundra not being listed as compatible vehicle on their solutions work 100% (I assume CAN-BUS protocol is standard/universal across all car manufacturers).

    Hope this info is useful for you guys.
    If really needed, I can draw up wiring schematics for my set up, but most of it should be already known, and there are tons of web resources to guide you how to wire up lights, relays and switches.

    Feel free to ask Qs, comment, etc.
    -99
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2022
    RatPanda, Bob, Onetrack97 and 17 others like this.
  2. Jul 20, 2022 at 5:19 PM
    #2
    Shave Ice

    Shave Ice New Member

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    Great write up! Thank you sir.
     
  3. Jul 20, 2022 at 6:02 PM
    #3
    t300

    t300 New Member

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    Great write up, I’ll be using this for sure
     
  4. Jul 20, 2022 at 6:59 PM
    #4
    DexterL

    DexterL New Member

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    Man this is huge.. wish I had seen it a few weeks ago before I ran wiring for my switch pros and all my current and future lights! How does the increased light work with the auto high beams?
     
  5. Jul 20, 2022 at 8:38 PM
    #5
    Brums

    Brums New Member

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    i remember you saying you were going to order that device, glad to see that it works great and seems like it is a rather straightforward kinda thing

    kinda looks like that high beam module *could* possibly be used for other things as well if doing like what you did, if putting it on/near the device you are wanting the signal from, if needing strictly an on/off signal, very cool

    you said you have the IDR8?
    with putting the contactless connector there at the connector for the light, were you able to get any of the other outputs that the IDR8 shows having?, like im guessing you wouldn't get speed signal there or brake output. but like the turn signals, side lights and low beam and ign on?

    thats really really cool
     
  6. Jul 20, 2022 at 8:40 PM
    #6
    Brums

    Brums New Member

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    also curious as to how much $ you have in the device and getting it here, if you don't mind sharing
     
  7. Jul 21, 2022 at 11:02 AM
    #7
    99ways2die

    99ways2die [OP] New Member

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    Low beams:
    [​IMG]

    High beams:
    [​IMG]

    High beams + light bar:
    [​IMG]

    Light bar only:
    [​IMG]

    PS:
    For pricing of the CANM8 devices, just add everything you'd wan tot the cart, then use online currency converters to get current rate/cost. I paid with VISA and my bank did this automatically.
     
    BoomBoomGanoom likes this.
  8. Aug 7, 2022 at 2:28 PM
    #8
    Prohit

    Prohit New Member

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    it would be $175 USD with the wireless connection
     
  9. Nov 13, 2022 at 5:26 PM
    #9
    virgilus11

    virgilus11 New Member

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    OP ,
    This is a fantastic find. . Would you like to draw a schematic for the high beam only, no switch ? I installed additional lights in the front and scraping my head how to run it of the high beams, strictly when high beams are on. I have the harness running from the battery to a relay then to the lights. I have the trigger wire from the relay but unfortunatelly nowhere to connect it .
    Thank you 1000 times.
     
    Last edited: Nov 13, 2022
  10. Nov 13, 2022 at 7:23 PM
    #10
    99ways2die

    99ways2die [OP] New Member

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    Virgil:
    So, your trigger wire now goes to either a 12V+ switch (so that the lights/relay are activated manually), or to the high beam output(purple) wire on the "CANM8 CANNECT HIGHBEAM" if you have/get it.
    This is assuming that you want your aux lights activated only when high beams are on, and only in that method.
    (in other words, nothing else will will turn your aux lights on-only the trigger wire connect to whatever source).


    I don't think you need a schematic here, just install the CANM8 device properly, then use it's desired output wire for the trigger, and you're done.
    Hope I'm not confusing you and this helps a bit.

    PS:
    If you're really stuck, IM me.
    -99
     
  11. Nov 14, 2022 at 2:27 AM
    #11
    virgilus11

    virgilus11 New Member

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    I did order it last night Thank you very very much. Really helpful.
     
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  12. Nov 14, 2022 at 7:43 AM
    #12
    99ways2die

    99ways2die [OP] New Member

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    BTW:
    CANM8 installation instructions call for "constant" 12V+ power source for the device, but you don't have to do that.
    There is really no need to have it powered constantly, so if you want, you can just tap power for it anywhere else, with Accessory ON wire.
    I tapped into my top of the dashboard 12V cigarette lighter outlet, since that gets turned on once the truck is in Accessory ON position. Everything works like a charm.

    -99
     
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  13. Nov 14, 2022 at 7:54 AM
    #13
    virgilus11

    virgilus11 New Member

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    Thinking to run it directly from the battery. Would this draw a lot I leave the car over the weekend ?
    Thank you for your help
     
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  14. Nov 14, 2022 at 3:09 PM
    #14
    99ways2die

    99ways2die [OP] New Member

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    Nahh. It won't draw any power to be of concern even for long term storage.
    I was just saying-if there is no need then why bother...but if you wanna leave the CANM8 box in the engine bay and keep all wiring "local" then I understand.
    I wouldn't worry either way.
    -99
     
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  15. Nov 14, 2022 at 3:25 PM
    #15
    virgilus11

    virgilus11 New Member

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    Thank you 99. Great info.
     
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  16. Nov 30, 2022 at 10:02 AM
    #16
    B5114

    B5114 New Member

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    Hello. Was the connector you hook the contactless reader near connected to the headlight assembly. I have an SR5 and can’t seem to find that connector. Only a small connector for lights, one for the leveling, and marker lights on the headlight assembly.
     
  17. Dec 1, 2022 at 3:11 AM
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    wing-2

    wing-2 New Member

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    Anybody know how much of these trucks is can-bus? Is there any risk/issue with (a truck cap dealer) tapping into the system to grab juice for the brake light on a truck cap?
     
  18. Dec 1, 2022 at 5:24 AM
    #18
    99ways2die

    99ways2die [OP] New Member

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    Use the trailer hitch wiring if available (just easier), but there is zero problem tapping "the old fashioned way" into brake/turn/etc lights for trigger power, if they are just standard 12V type.

    There is no issue doing what we've always done before, unless the circuit used to borrow 12V from is extremely thin gauge (unlikely) and you are driving lights off it directly of large load (ie: do not hook up your 300W lightbar directly to a third brake light wire and expect it not to blow a fuse, lol).
    Otherwise you're fine...and things like LED brake lights on truck caps don't need any special considerations.
     
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  19. Dec 1, 2022 at 5:28 AM
    #19
    99ways2die

    99ways2die [OP] New Member

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    Like I wrote initially, SR5 headlights may be "Standard" wiring and not CAN-BUS driven at all.
    If you have just normal wiring for the lights in your headlamp, then you just tap for high/low as you did for the past few decades.
    But, I don't know what your wiring looks like, and don't know if SR5s have CAN-BUS lights.

    I assume you're asking about the connector on the headlight itself. Platinum has only 1 plug/connector on its headlamp, and that's where this contact-less reader is placed (near by).
     
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  20. Dec 5, 2022 at 2:14 PM
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    B5114

    B5114 New Member

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  21. Jan 2, 2023 at 12:07 PM
    #21
    PapaDave418

    PapaDave418 A Dude who knows a Dude

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    I have a Limited with Premium headlights and was disappointed as well not to find a high beam fuse under the hood to tap. Could one tap the purple and white wire going into the headlight canbus plug? Or are those wires simply sending a momentary signal to fire on and off the high beams?
     
  22. Jan 2, 2023 at 2:01 PM
    #22
    99ways2die

    99ways2die [OP] New Member

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    Yup, CAN-BUS wires only send signals so you can't use them in a traditional way to tap for 12v+.
    You should be able to figure out all out between this thread, and B5114's.

    As a quick update on mine: flawless operation ever since I installed all of this. Extremely happy with the CANM8 device.
    -99
     
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  23. Jan 4, 2023 at 6:16 AM
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    49ºNRTH

    49ºNRTH New Member

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    Awesome setup, thanks for doing the legwork on this! I am going to wire my light bar the same way

    Question for ya, did you wire the power for the contactless reader and the CANM8 module to the same source? i.e. tie in both off the the 12v dash power supply
     
  24. Jan 4, 2023 at 6:18 AM
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    99ways2die

    99ways2die [OP] New Member

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    The contactless reader does not have its own power supply, it just connects back to the CANM8 device.
    -99
     
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  25. Jan 4, 2023 at 6:19 AM
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    49ºNRTH

    49ºNRTH New Member

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    Okay perfect! Thanks
     
  26. Jan 4, 2023 at 7:10 AM
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    PapaDave418

    PapaDave418 A Dude who knows a Dude

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    My unit is on order, theoretically one could power the canbus unit from a switched fuse under the under the hood? Does it boot up quickly?
     
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  27. Jan 4, 2023 at 7:19 AM
    #27
    99ways2die

    99ways2die [OP] New Member

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    You can power it from any 12v+ source you want.
    I run mine off an "accessory" 12v+ b/c I don't need it to be ON constantly (recall that I have dual switch setups for all my lights, so I can run them manually no matter if the truck is on or off).

    From cold start (of the device) it takes 1 to 2 seconds for the CANM8 to be active. Once powered on, its functionality is instant (so if you flick your high beams on, for example, the light bar connected to CANM8's trigger wire will flash in unison with the high beams).
    -99
     
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  28. Jan 20, 2023 at 11:34 AM
    #28
    PapaDave418

    PapaDave418 A Dude who knows a Dude

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    Finally got my unit, where did you put the control box? It doesn’t look weather proof but the reader seems to be.
    Thanks!
     
  29. Jan 20, 2023 at 4:06 PM
    #29
    99ways2die

    99ways2die [OP] New Member

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    Box is inside the truck, under dash/wherever; the reader can/should also stay inside - you just have to find the ECU and wires to attach it to....see B5114's thread above, as I think he managed to find the right ECU/cables for "inside" connection.
    I did mine in the engine bay, only b/c I was still in the experimental phase, and just wanted to make it work. It was no big deal for me to run the wires inside the cab, but there is a better/proper way.

    GL
    -99
     
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  30. Jan 20, 2023 at 7:02 PM
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    SC4333

    SC4333 New Member

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    I might end up having to buy one these.. I plan on doing a little more digging around this weekend and will see about using the switched ground that comes off the turn signal / lighting stalk, using that ground to switch a relay. If I have any luck i'll post an update here. Thanks for the detailed write up @99ways2die
     

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