What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Goal is to go with ADS remote resis eventually. Waiting on an insurance check to make that happen. I’ll pull the shocks probably before too long for bushing measurements. I’m sure I can find something that will work. Worst case scenario I know a guy with a machine shop that will make me some aluminum slugs that can be retained with C Clips in place of bushings.

 

If you had one, would you seriously use it? I think I've opened/closed mine maybe less than 10 times in the 20 years I've owned my Tundra.

1/2 those times were to relocate, remove or reinstall my Sirius Satellite Antenna.

 

I use mine regularly. If you crack it 3"-6" with the front windows open, it really cools down the entire cab.

I can drive around comfortably in 85° weather with no A/C. Maybe because the truck is white and doesn't retain a ton of heat, but ...

Yup, it gets used.

 

That's the exact long term project I'm working on. Long-term because used car & gas prices went berserk.
Step 1 - sell access cab. completed.
Step 2 - buy '04 with magic back window. This step is stalled. Likely going to become step 2a.
Step 2a - buy '04 Sequoia. That's sorta happening, friends just won't let it go. With these gas prices, that's okay.

I know, this dances around the satisfaction of creation, but I happen to hate those little access doors always tangling up top with the front doors.

 

Doesn't seem like much, but one year ago, I couldn't have fit an RC car in this garage.

 

New vinyl decals today.
Old ones had a see thru film over it would attract a lot of dirt around it.

 

Dang that sucks man. I guess some Ranchos are lemons. I’ve got 10,000 miles on mine and the bushings are nowhere near as bad. On other forums I’ve heard people complain about this exact thing. Some people have problems, some don’t.

 

Worked great! I ended up just leaving the rubber fender liner panels out. They've definitely seen better days. I ended up having to drill the mounting holes from the top down through thr engine bay but it was pretty easy

 

Went down yesterday to pick up the Wildernest camper I bought last weekend.


And today finally got the rear suspension (mostly) finished. Shoutout to @alb1k for the guidance on mount placement. Found out that one of the neighbors was a welder, not sure how I wasn't already aware of that, and he was able to get over and get the lower shock mounts welded on. They sill need to be hit with a wire wheel and a coat of paint put on them.


Disregard the zip ties holding the resis on... temporary placement until i get some mounts ordered. Didn't realized the rears didn't come with mounts like the fronts did.


Then it was time to get the bed back on. Found out the hose locations for the reservoirs was in the way of one of the rubber pads on the bottom of the bed. I cut the zipties and just let them hang out of the way. Lastly, it was time for the Wildernest.


I somehow managed to over extend the LPV while it was disconnected and it caused some brake fluid to run down the rod. I was able to get it to stop leaking but I will definitely need to replace it as it's causing the pedal to drop a bit on initial braking. So far very excited to get it buttoned up and finally get out and do some camping again.

 

Will need to give Radflo a call tomorrow and see if i can bring them the rear shocks to put 90⁰ ends on the hoses so i can mount them on the shock relocation bracket.

 

No its just a slip on that was at the end of the exhaust before i cut it back to clear the shocks. I just didn't feel like cleaning up the exhaust so I just slipped it back on so I didn't cut myself while doing the rest of the work on the rear end. In the next couple weeks I'll get over to the muffler shop I use and have them replace the muffler with something smaller and better sounding and it will probably end upgetting dumped out of the bed side in front of the rear tire.

 

I'm trying to figure out how best to mount them right now. The supplied mounts wont work. I may just use two hose clamps, or cut some aluminum flat bar and bolt to the frame and secure with clamps. Do you have any suggestions? I can't tell what you used, or what came with the radflo coilovers.

 

The ones that I used came with the radflos but the universal reservoir mounts from accutune are the same ones I got.

https://accutuneoffroad.com/product/universal-fit-remote-reservoir-mount-kit/

Just make sure that the hoses won't get caught on the tire when you go full lock.

 

You are correct sir. It totally doesn't.
I want that magic 5th window enough that I was considering creating it in my access cab. But I was considering things like 70's wagon knowing DC is wider & likely the workings just won't fit. The more I thought the project thru, the more experience shouted at me to do it the cheap way - Just buy a DC.
It's like when you build your show car in your 20's - costs way more than buying one that's already built & making it your own with some tweaks.
Or restorations, takes way longer & costs way more to restore a rusty car than to just start with a rust free one.
There's enough DC's around & there's so little free-time in modern life that it just makes sense to buy a DC than force the window into an AC.
But it would be totally cool to see it done.

 

DC's are fairly awesome. Every model has its trade-offs. And I don't roll around with my window down on a regular basis. But when I need it down, what a great thing.

 

I figure it's the closest I can come to a convertible without being in the direct sun (vampire skin) & not being in a Jeep.

 

But is the rear cab shape/type the same with Gen 2?

With the 1st Gen, the glass for the DC and RC/AC has physically different dimensions.

 

Right, I saw that, but the only way I can see this working is if you only cut out the surround around the rear window, 2" maybe, and stitch it in. But the risk of warpage cutting a piece out that small is so high, it'd probably be a mess.

The A/C front door and window , and the rear AC window shape being so different ...

I dunno. Maybe it's easier with a Gen 2

 

I don't think that would work either, I want to say I remember the DC being a couple inches wider also

 

Yet to actually try it?

 

You wouldnt have to replace the whole cab wall,
Just the center section.

 

Reminds me of shortening a frame. Or making it longer.

 

My iphone said my AC cab is 3'1" between the seams, but its dark out, so not sure how reliable that is.

 

I'm pretty sure the 20-30" below the rear window is different also, with the provisions required to bolt up the scissor jack that pushes the rear window up/down, and its motor. AC has provisions for the rear seats to clip into. RC has ... nothing?

 

Point behind that last message being: I forgot, you'd probably need to take the 20-30" below the window also.