Any experience with the built in 1 Touch Up & Down for window controls?

Yea! Finally for my platinum.
They are available (but not yet shipping). Preorder has a little discount. Mine are already ordered!!!

 

Noice!

 

What color did you get? Still a little torn on the blue or white

 

I ordered white. I was thinking blue too, but when I order my vled footwell lights, I ordered teal. I thought the teal would be close to the factory light color. Well, it isn’t-and I don’t love them. I regret not getting white now, so now I’m just getting white. Rather than fret over how well they match, I know what to expect.

 

For those that ordered white it matches the white of the instrument cluster pretty well. Where the rest of the dash is a slightly lighter blue than the blue switch if that makes sense

 

I bought the white because of the instrument cluster and The blue is NOT factory Toyota blue. I really wanted blue ( if matched ) but could not stand the red lock switch. Looks aftermarket and not factory. Having another Toyota in the fleet with auto windows and sunroof, I don’t know why Toyota couldn’t do it on the tundra. I was concerned how the white would look and I’m pleased. That being said, if they made Toyota blue and no red….. whites are on the marketplace thread.

 

I honestly haven't even looked at mine at night, I got white.

 

So my replacement stopped working after about 6 weeks (only drivers side window worked). I swapped back to the OEM. As much as I loved this mod, I’m done with this product and this company. I hope everyone else has better luck than me.

 

hmmm bummer. I’m about 6 weeks or more into my replacement- would be bummed if mine took a digger too.

 

Well I hit the 3 month mark and none of my switches work in my 2020 other then the drivers window. First the rear windows and passenger window would stop rolling up or down intermittently. That lasted a couple of days. Then on October 3rd none of the windows would roll up or down. Of course I was heading to the car wash when this happened. So I went back home and put the factory switches in and everything worked as it should. So I tested all the switches putting one in at a time and none of them worked with the factory switch or the other ones. I emailed them and hopefully will hear something back soon.


I also didn't realize this was my first post. So in that case hello all. I have a 2020 Crewmax with 6" rough country lift and 35" tires.

 

Mine have worked since day one and have had zero problems with them...?? why y'all breaking stuff?? LOL

 

This one has me worried a bit. Mine stopped "working" also but the problem was the window lock switch would not disengage. I messaged the company via facebook and they asked if the window lock switch was always red. Requested no further proof of it and shipped out a new one. Hopefully this one lasts more than a few weeks....fingers crossed.

 

I'm on several months of my "replacement" unit (drivers side, all 4 auto up/down) switch and it's working flawlessly. white backlit. I also have the individual auto up/down on the other 3 doors too which never acted up.

*knocks on wood*

 

My two sets are both still functioning perfectly. One in my 2012 and one in my pop's 2021.

 

All four of mine are still working.

 

How long have you had yours?

 

I only have the driver switch in my 2013.
Flawless since May 14th

 

Mine are still working great.

 

Well, I got a weird one that I bet none of you can replicate. I have a remote start system and aftermarket keyfob which allows me to lock the doors even if they are all wide open (sounds weird but I actually use it a lot to unload the truck and with my arms full I can close the door and it is locked). Anyways, I locked the truck with the drivers' door open put the fob in my pocket, and then got out of the truck, but left my backpack in the back seat, so I punched the button on the door and grabbed my backpack. Then I was unable to lock the door with the fob. I did some testing and for some reason, there is something weird happening with the buttons on the door and the fob not being in "sync" and the fob won't work until I manually unlock the door with the physical key or if I use the door buttons to get back into "sync". Not really a problem just thought it was funny and that I should share with the group

 

Since June

 

@JoelThor26
Thank you for the 3Wliner test. That was my question, I wasn't sure if they worked in conjunction with each other or compete. I like the ability to control the windows via FOB with the 3Wliner, been very pleased with it. This will be a nice addition as well.
here is a youtube showing the install, different brand but same set up

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ziQULigoBkQ

 

Just an FYI when you guys are looking at the different modules.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/child-safety-note-autoloc-versus-3w-liners-window-modules.114578/

 

here is another option

$105 HIGH FLYING for Toyota Tundra 2007-2021 LED Lighted Power Window Switch Control Panel, Lock/Unlock Switch with Auto Down/Up, Kit of 4pcs Blue Light (NOT Fit 1794 Edition, Limited, Platinum)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09YYG8N91?ie=UTF8&language=en_US

 

Try this for the Back window
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r_Pa5qYK3EQ

 

Tundra Forum - I recently had this issue pop up and I have isolated the problem to the soldered connection within the unit at the window lock button. There is a poorly fabricated connection within the unit along the left side of the internal connector of the window lock button that faults out when the window lock is off. I trouble shot it by disassembling the unit and supplying power, then pulled the window lock button off. Along the circuit board under the button are two LED's (red and white) (on and off). There is a white plastic housing that is held in place by a spring (think of a click pen operation). When the button is pressed, the mechanism holds the button down (opens the circuit), when it is depressed, the button returns up (closes the circuit). So, with the button (cover) off, you can see the LED's. With the window lock in the 'off' position (depressed), the light should be white and the windows should work. But with the slightest movement of the white plastic piece, the red and white lights flicker. The unit still works, but is getting a bad signal from the board because the connections if faulting.

More specifically, on the housing is an additional spring activated metal connector. That connector contacts two points along the left wall of the black surrounding housing for the window lock button. As the window lock button is activated (pressed down), the spring loaded connection is pushed away from the connectors via a ramp and the circuit for the windows is open (hence, the windows are locked because there is no power going to them). When the button is depressed, the spring loaded mechanism rides back up and makes contact again and the circuit is closed.

What happens to cause the fault is that somehow the connection gets hot and melts the white plastic housing just enough to limit the movement of the spring activated connector. So the connector locks itself into the housing and cannot reengage the circuit to close the circuit. I pulled everything apart and modified the white housing to allow the spring activated connector to engage again and it works perfectly again. Will it short and melt the plastic again.....maybe. But for now, it works.

Word of caution, there are tiny springs in the mechanism, so don't lose them. It's similar to working with gun detent springs. They are mounted in compression and when you open up the housing, they can disappear!

Good luck! Hope this helps.

 

Dang dude you’re an evil super genius

 

How was your experience getting a replacement? Mine just started doing the same thing; I have to push the window lock button several times for the other 3 windows to roll down.

 

It was actually rather smooth. Sent them a message on Facebook, I think I had the part within a few days. They asked what the problem was, and before I could send them a video of what was happening they sent me a tracking number.

 

Mine are now starting to act up. I have to push the lock / unlock button for them to work. I have the oem multi switch for the driver door but can’t remember what I did with the other 3. Is it worth getting a replacement or will it have the same issues? The Tundra isn’t even my daily driver so the switches haven’t even been used 20 times if that.

 

Well, gonna give this thing a go. Ordered the "ice blue" version (somewhere b'n white and blue) direct from China to save some money since there have been a number of issues. Only ordered the main driver's side assembly for ~ $50 shipped.