What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

R9k’s 2gr tune is sloppy. Curious how their 2uz tune is

 

Sloppy as well. I think it's a generic tune. Got zero feedback on what exactly was done. Gains were seen on the Dyno Jet but Dynojets are deceiving.

 

Nice. I didn't think OV supports any 4.7s

 

He claims they support all. But the only calibration Id remotely close to our IDs is a 2008.. normal OV tune “we support it” but only on one god damn computer of 10-15 possible ones

 

Game changer. I need the front going.

 

oh i've had one.. its just this damn radio doesnt want to play with the aftermarket cameras. so fitting an OEM and wiring is the new challenge.. but i need to make a test harness first to make sure even that works

 

Ah i see. Yea I would love OV Tune because of the flexibility. Tune by file, after learning driving habits would awesome!

 

if enough people pressure him it usually gets done. but the dude is insanely smart.. but cant learn to focus on one thing... he gets one ECU doing everything he wants, and moves on to a totally different car.



theres a reason hes been banned from most sites.

 

Wait, DAP or is OV a person? I'm confused.

 

OV. sorry.

 

Just installed rear brake shoes. Can’t find any info on bedding procedures…do I need to do anything?

Will update my other threads on brakes and radiator when I’m not on a dinky phone.

 

You generally never need to bleed your brakes (outside of routine maintenance) unless you loosen a brake line that's carrying fluid or have something else that could've potentially introduced air into the line, like running your MC reservoir dry, etc.

The big think you do need to make sure of is to properly adjust out the shoes. After, I typically also set/unset my e-brake a few times just for good measure.

Edit: Wait ... you said "bedding", did you mean bleeding, or something else?

 

I'm going to agree with @shifty` here. I will add - run it in forward, run it in rear, brake easy. Jam the P brake a lot at rest. But, before you do hard braking, get it out on the highway and get some speed and do a controlled wheels still spinning as far as you can hard brake. Basically - season those things without warping things or creating divots.

 

While idleing and rolling in reverse, run the parking brake on & off half a dozen times, then do the same in forward. Giving a minute or so cool down between.

then, use p brake about half down slowing from 30, and use the brake pedal gently, as to not lockup the rear axle, but come to a stop quicker than just p brake. Give it a few minutes of cool down before doing it again.

if you're the type to top off the reservoir before replacing pads, and squeezing the pistons back in 'overfills' the reservoir, you can drain the excess with a piece of hose on a bleeder, into a jar, to drain the excess. I'm not a big fan of the turkey baster fluid removal.

 

Good tips, it’s a very scientific, process

 

"Ranger" method has its time and place. You're totally right, this isn't that time or place.

 

Where the F were you this morning!?!?!?!??!?!
Lol. Yew!

 

I missed the click heels 3 times part my first time - don't be that guy (me). Be a boss.

 

While facing west, if you faced north, your in big trouble

 

And yet, I would do this to the T. Just dont stomp on those damn things new.

 

Holy shit, we fuked this up.

 

Just make sure the T isn't backwards. You might get stuck on a train. I learned this from the 3rd gen dilemmas.

 

Tell that to your wife!
I was like take it easy for a while……. Next day, let’s test the brakes the entire drive…….

 

Those "T" s are brutally deceiving. That's why I have removed all Ts of my truck and forbid my family from speaking its/their/hers/his/they/those/wtf/babyyoda/bigandrich/whereamI name.

 

You forgot they

 

fixed it
https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1401#post-2834084

 

Yes, I also drive a 1s Gen undra

 

Reversing and running the p brake is supposed to work the ratchet. Next time i pull the wheels i'll mark the pawl, and test it vs forwards.

 

Proper 'bedding' on worn grooved rotors just takes time. But scuffing the pads in is easy if you keep em cool. Hard braking 'glazes' the pads at the high pionts, and is a localized heating.

rust dust from being ignored for a couple weeks, but you can see the 'grooves' where my pads drag. When i apply the brakes, and the pads 'flatten' they spread the heat evenly, if my rotors were 'dug out' and the insides and outside were where all the clamping happened, it would glaze the inside/outside of the pad.


inside/outside relative to the hub, not sides of the disc. JIC.

buell uses all of the rotor, but since i changed the pads and kept the rotor, you can see where the pads drag on the inside and outside, and when i squeeze, most of the heat is in the center.

 

This should go in the abstract thread aslo…..