Boost Auto Tow Mirrors

Not sure you’ll find one from AOB that will work. Pretty sure you need a SPDT switch such that there’s a common +12V in and the switch toggles to MF or MR leads. BUT I’d need to peak at the factory diagram again because I feel like there’s more to it than that…

 

That was my thinking. It’s not a simple on off. 4 wires in to switch. Ground, power in, retract and extend.

 

From my build thread, this post shows the internal wiring of the factory mirror switch.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/caseys-2021-lunar-rock-trd-pro-build.77317/page-10#post-2163301

Essentially it’s a DPDT (double pole double throw) switch for the mirror fold/unfold such that each position reverses the polarity at the fold motor to either retract or open them.

I’m not aware of any company making a small Toyota blank-based switch that is DPDT.

curious - why not use the factory folding mirror switch from the early Gen 2 Limited like I did (and many others)?

 

I am new to wiring. Just ran some aux backups and auto reverse backups ( thank you for helping in that thread, btw). Not really sure I am capable of that. I had no power
Fold on truck, ordered the boost one with it. Not sure I understand it enough to add the oem Switch.

 

Really not difficult - running the wires for the Boost mirrors has you 99% of the way there already. The only thing left is connecting it into the new switch. You don’t need to add ground or power taps (like you do with original Boost switch) because those are already running to the factory switch with all the power you need to do the job.

If you buy this switch off Amazon, it comes with a new plug with pigtails.

Power Auto Rear Mirror Folding Switch 84872-52040 for Toyota Vios Rav4 Camry Scion Lexus

https://www.amazon.com/Mirror-Folding-Switch-84872-52040-Toyota/dp/B07Q7G5G42
All you need to do is de-terminate the two for the mirror fold and then splice the Boost wires to those two pigtails and terminate them into your original factory switch connector. There’s a few tricks to popping the terminals out, but it’s not too tough with a little trial and error (and you’ve got several other terminals to try it on first).

The key with Toyota connectors is that they are dual lock setup.


First, you use a super tiny flat head screwdriver to pop up the body locking bar (1 in the above diagram) by about 1-2mm or so.
Then, you insert a small skinny tool (I find a decent gage dull sewing needle works well, or file down the tip of a small paperclip) into the small holes in the end of the connector to push the secondary locking tab away from the notch it locks into in the terminal, while GENTLY pulling on the terminal from the back (wire side) of the connector. When you get it right, it will slip out very easily.
Going into the new connector, pop up the body locking bar and push the terminal in (it will only go one way) until it clicks. Then push the bar back down.

Your fold wires will go into pins 9 and 10 (this view is looking at the front end of the connector - not the end the wires come into).


On the boost setup, I can’t remember what the wire colors are - I think blue and yellow (I ordered mine as though the truck was pre-wired), and I don’t recall which one is MR (mirror retract) and which is MF (mirror fold) from their wires. Hook it up one way and see what happens - either they will fold when you push the button in, or they will open back up. If they are doing the opposite of what you want, then turn off the truck, unplug the connector, determinate those two wires and switch them. You can’t blow anything up (provided you turn the truck off before disconnecting the switch, and haven’t shorted something out somewhere else).

 

That’s not as bad as imagined. When you say splice the boost wires , that’s just the 2 boost wires into the harness already in truck, or do I have to redo all the mirror wires to the new connector?

 

Just the boost wires in the truck. Your combining the two yellow wires together and connecting them to one pigtail from the new switch, and the two blue wires to the other pigtail. Then plugging those to pigtail terminals into your existing connector in spots 9 & 10, and plugging in the new mirror control switch

 

When designating which one can be MF (mirror fold) and MR (mirror retract) I went by Casey's schematic.

 

Sweet. I didn’t know which was which on the Boost side. So yellow = MF and blue = MR

 

Can anyone tell me if these Boost mirrors have the auto anti glare/dimming feature that comes on the Platinum trim level mirrors

 

Negative

 

OK Thanks

 

thank you Casey. Worked perfectly.

 

Hi, if I was going to connect to a factory switch with the power fold button, would I want to order the Boost Tow mirrors with the setup as if I already had power fold or without it and then use the wires in their provided harness? Thanks

 

Casey did it that way. I ordered them as though my truck didn't come with power fold. Only difference is you'll go by his instructions almost to the T (with the exception of the rear facing light setup unless you do what he did there too). You will still have to run wires to the backside of the switch either way.

 

Thanks. It looks like the Boost connector has more wires than what is needed. Did you just cut the switch off and use the blue/yellow wires into the factory switch? What happens to the remaining wires?

 

Yes, cut the Boost terminal off (if you choose to order "without the OEM power fold" option). You only need the power fold and retract wiring. The + and - wires go bye bye as your OEM switch already has power coming to it from the factory harness which is just another reason to use an OEM switch.

 

These are great mirrors. Had them on my long bed and never had any issues with them.

 

Excellent customer service too. The couple times I've reached out to them I gotta response within 24 hours.

 

Any advice to depinning the blue and yellow wires from the Amazon switch? I don't see a locking bar or anything that allows the pin to come out.

 

My only complaint about these mirrors is the signal lights in the mirrors are very bright and blind me at night.

 

Mine should arrive on Monday. I’m disappointed that I’ll lose the dimming function but it is what it is. Hopefully the wiring and install go ok.

 

Just installed mine and blowing the ECU ACC fuse when I adjust. Any ideas?

 

Installed mine a few weeks ago and I love them.

 

Is that where you've tapped for power? Add-a-fuse? How do you have the switch set up?

 

You're wanting to take the wires out that you put in to power the fold?

 

I did - just re-read this and looks like I can skip their power hookup with the add a fuse. About to straight connect the existing wiring in its corresponding pin on the Amazon switch. Same order as owl switch with power fold on ends, correct?

 

Kinda confused. Do you have it powered using their harness and the power fold/retract wires run into the OEM style switch? If you added power to the mirrors on an add a fuse as well you're blowing fuses