What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Dont hurt my feelies until i get visible lines drawn on the i beam and bottom-most leaf.

the tow hook is a placeholder, terrible cause it would hook a trunklid instead of sending me up & over.

 

I did an unscheduled chrome delete today. This was me this morning.

While leaving a liquor store parking lot, I found one of those 4” steel pipes full of concrete that are about 2 feet tall, as it was in my path of travel. Found it by feel. Hit me like this:
Or somethin like that. Even if it were painted bright yellow like they usually are, I wouldnt have seen it. Anyways, that piece of the original bumper that I have custom cut around my tube bumper got mangled up a bit. Got it home, removed it, and pounded it back as close as I could to the shape that it was, in the time I was willing to spend on it. I had been contemplating painting it black for a while and figured while it was off… and might as well pop off the mirror caps and hit those too. Now the only chrome left is the perimeter of the grill. I’ll get pics tomorrow but none of that was on my agenda for the day.

 

Realized when I did my alt, I think either the stealership or my local shop ripped out my right front splash apron. So, logical thing to do is replace all four, right? The left/driver front also had at least one small rip in it and they all generally felt a little leathery. Went all OEM, before/after and some other rando pics below.

Part numbers here, in case anyone else is hunting. I highly recommend getting all new fasteners, you'll break some on removal. These part numbers should be right for RC and DC trucks too, but verify fitment at the Toyota Parts site before ordering.

Splash guard "Apron" passenger front (R): 537360c020 => note: 2000-2003 uses 537360c010
Splash guard "Apron" passenger Rear (RR): 537380c010
Splash guard "Apron" driver front (L): 537370c020 => note: 2000-2003 uses 537370c010
Splash guard "Apron" driver front (LL): 537390c010
Splash guard "Apron fasteners: 9046710186
Fasteners required: R=5, RR=4, L=8, LL=4 (total 21)​

@NickB_01TRD I'll ping you about the ones I took out, but if you've got an '01 the front driver side may not help. I salvaged as many fasteners as possible, I'll send those and a plastic tool to help pop the old ones out, along with that Honda cover. Ping me.

Out with the old:

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In with the new:

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Overall shot driver side.

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I did the ark splash guards because the oem fell apart like paper during header install(s)

 

I was contemplating ProTech and Fend-X just cause I love wasting money. But not sure if the ‘07’s fit.

https://geartechcustoms.com/shop/ols/products/protec-tundra-splash-guards

 

I need those, mine are shot. Or those expensive one piece numbers. Looks great!!!

 

Excellent illustration!!! Sorry about the dumb pole.

 

Well, @shifty` I had to pull the jewel out of my rear to free up a switch for the disco stick.
https://youtu.be/en6SQtBHhYw

 

Damn dude, that looks incredibly painful going down the center of both toe bones. Do they normally pull that thing out when it heals? Because if not, I don’t see how you’d be able to move it at all or get your foot to fit right in a shoe.

 

They are called Kirschner wires. Martin Kirschner first used them in 1909. Commonly used for temporary fixation to this day. They can break and other complications. The orthopod’s tool chest looks pretty similar to the car mechanics only more costly.

 

Yeah, mine are definitely more leathery, but not fall-apart ready. I suspect if you tried to bend them around into a different shape or install the wrong way, they may rip though.

They pulled it out. They pulled up a portable x-ray, zoomed in on it, god some pliers, local anesthetic, grabbed the tip, and yanked. Want to see the pin? I didn't get a shot of the portable x-ray machine in progress, but pics of the general setup and the pin.

 

I don't see a pin, but cool pry bar.

 

I thought it was a down stem

 

Good to hear! I guess it's just screws and plates they leave due to scar tissue growing around them and the possible potential of damaging a nerve removing them.

No need to show the pin, I believe.

 

Found more pics of my stuff. Including initial x-ray, post-surgery, and the crazy portable x-ray.

 

Wow. I figured they just drilled a hole in through the top of the toe with a fancy drill and inserted it rather than going in sideways from the stitching I see or was that for something else?

 

Incision to isolate the bone while drilling. They drilled straight through the tip, through all three toe bones, then inserted the pin. I assume they had some specialty tool to chase the bit with the pin, which is probably ~14ga.

 

New wheels and tires.
SCS F5 16 X 8 -25 offset
General grabber a/tx 285/75/16
I need to trim the bumper a bit as the tires rub when while backing up.

 

Nice wheel/tire combo.

 

I ordered a new rear lower door latch from Rockauto and got that installed. The stock one was loose because the screw holes were stripped out. I ordered the Aisin brand and so far it was perfect fit and works great. $60 vs $130.

I also decided to replace the last 2 coil packs on the engine. I replaced them a bit ago with some I bought off of Amazon and I've been a little worried that they were counterfeit since the other 6 I replaced looked a bit different. I'm pretty sure that they were fakes. I pulled them out and the manufacturer info and part number rub off very easily. Not 100% sure, but here's a pic of them.

 

Nice setup, you running any lift at all?

Yeah, I was two shakes away from scoring a full set of V6 coil packs on ShopGoodwill last week, but noticed those stickers looked janky on the top, ink was loose, so I bailed last minute. The boxes looked legit, coil packs looked legit, but they're so damn good at making fakes these days that if I bought them at $60 for the lot, and resold for $150 to make a little contribution to my slush fund, I wasn't willing to risk my reputation on it.

I honestly don't know how to tell what's fake and what's not, or how to tell if something is in-spec or not. I've heard rumors a lot of what gets pushed as OEM "counterfeits" are grade B parts, parts that fail QC, or have blemishes, that way they're only having to fake the labels. I've also heard some of the fakes are actually legit parts, but ones made at lower-quality which are intended for other markets.

What's true anymore? Who knows! But I don't fault you for swapping those out. Curious ... did the ink easily wipe off the new ones? My stock/OEM coils don't have anything ground off above the embossed "DENSO" IIRC, and definitely don't have a sticker on top.

 

These are still my favorite wheel for our trucks. Nice choice.

 

Mines look the same, 7 from Rock Auto and 1 from AZ.

 

Clean looking truck! Where did you find a back up camera tail gate handle ?

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1368#post-2779576

You can get them aftermarket. Search is yo fren'

 

The new ones are pretty similar but the printing on the top doesn't wipe off, at least not yet. I guess I don't know for sure if the two Amazon ones are fakes or not, but I definitely feel better about having swapped them out for known quality parts.

 

I just removed the lock cylinder and drilled the hole out slightly larger. The camera does help in certain situations but you can't quite see the bumper edge so I may try a different camera out soon.