2006 Tundra/Sequoia Camshaft seals

4.7L VVT-i engine....camshafts must come out for for new seals...no way around it.

Hopefully someone can help me out. I am currently to the point of taking out camshafts. Crank is positioned with camshaft timing pulleys at the "T" mark....so not quite the "approx 50 degrees after TDC" ( where crank pulley timing mark is align with crank bolt and No 2 idler pulley bolt ).

The FSM mentions this.

Do I need to move it there before aligning service bolt on both banks and undoing bearing cap bolts ?

Can I take out just the intake camshaft or do both have to come out together after aligning 2-dot driven gears for LH bank and the 1-dot driven gears for the RH bank.

Someone's expert advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.....I will probably have additional questions.....

I do have the factory '05 Factory Service Manual....just unsure of a few things...and would like to bounce off others if you don't mind.

 

• The Service bolt hole should be lined up already once you take the valve covers off. If you don't have a bolt (I think it was an M6), I think I discovered that the the 4 timing pulley bolts that were removed from the cam are the proper thread. Use one of these as it's just to keep the gears in sync for disassembly.
• You kind of have to take both cams out at the same time. The gears are tight where they both come out. I think I just placed the exhaust cam back in the engine while I worked on the other, but you'll have to lift the front to realign them during reassembly.

The manual provided all that I needed, but there's a YT vid or two on disassembly of the cams.

Tips:

• Be sure to pay attention to inch-lbs vs ft-lbs!
• Double check your 1-dot and 2-dot assembly before torquing down the caps. You mentioned it above, but I almost missed that when I was doing the 2nd side.
• Take your time scraping off the gasket material from the heads and plug. Use a plastic razor or old credit card.
• The cam seal should be close to position when putting it back in, you can push it forward, but obviously not take it out once you put the valve covers back on (well, you can, but you'd have to redo the seal packing). Be careful with the front cap and scratching or pinching the seal. I had to order another one as it was too far out of position when I was assembling it. I figured I could just push it into position after, but was wrong. Get it within an 1/8" sticking out when assembling.

 

Thank you for the reply......

Service bolt is M6 x 1.0MM 16 to 20 MM length

So on re-assembly, after setting both camshafts in place, are you hurrying to torque down 22 bolts as the FIPG ( seal packing ) is setting up on the camshaft housing plug and front bearing cap. Does on first install the front bearing cap and torque it to spec with the seal close to fully seated position ? And then push it all the way in ? Then install remaining bearing caps and torque in order ?

Just a little confused even thou I have FSM that explains it somewhat. I just like to know how others did it.

Thanks in advance for forthcoming advice.

 

No. The seal packing goes on after you've already secured the cams. No need to rush anything. Some bolts may have a little resistance from the buckets, but get them started by hand first, then tighten in the order the FSM shows. They are torqued to in-lbs!

The FSM makes sense as you're doing it. The only "rush" moment is the Toyota/Aisin seal packing starts to set around 10 minutes, but if you follow the order in the manual, it's fine. Plenty of valve cover vids on 1uz, 2uz, or 3uzs, so if you need to watch one to see it in action.

Good luck!

 

Seal packing is applied to the underneath of the front bearing cap which encases the camshaft seal.....so I am confused by your statement above that states that seal packing is applied after cams are secured...

 

The cams are replaced, but the cam caps aren't bolted down before the front bearing cap is replaced. If you removed them with the dots in the correct orientation, they will go back in and seat themselves completely, or nearly enough that the front bearing cap will sit flush with the head. It should sit perfectly flush, then you can start installing the bolts and torque it down. Looking back over the manual, it's the first thing you tighten, so you'll put the cams in, apply the seal packing to the underside of the cap and plug, install plug and cap, verify it's flush, then bolt it down. After that you can do the cam caps.

 

Evil....thank you so much for your explanation...it is clearer now....

 

Sure thing! Do follow up on how it goes!

 

I started with RH Bank...took out both camshafts, successfully installed new seal on intake camshaft, but I have a little problem on re-installing the intake camshaft. I first installed exhaust camshaft, finger tightened E2, E3, E5 bearing caps, so exhaust is fully seated in the bearing journals, however when I install the intake camshaft, it seems that it is not 100% seated, almost but not 100%. 1-dot marks are lining up. Do I apply seal packing to front bearing cap and torque down front bearing cap ? Then install intake bearing caps ( I2, I3, I4, I5 and exhaust E4 bearing cap ) and start uniformly torquing down in succession ?

In your opinion , do you think this will fully seat the intake camshaft in the journals as I torque down 22 bolts in sequence. ? Dont want to damage anything or bind up anything at this point. Or what do you suggest. FSM is vague......All they say is ......."Align the 1-dot marks and place the intake and exhaust camshafts. Set the 1-dot marks at approx 10 degree angle...

 

If I remember correctly and as I pointed out earlier, I had a slight seating issue on one side that I was worried about as well, but was fine. Be sure to set each camshaft in loose at the same time, get them at the correct angle, THEN start putting the caps in their correct position and finger tightening them into place. This should ensure they don't move on you while you do the front cap

If the buckets are pushing on the cam so much that you can't seat a cam cap with hand tools, double check everything. I think some of the springs may be pushing just enough on the buckets that it doesn't all just fall into place, but nothing to worry about once you torque it down. When this is all done, and you have the timing belt back on, turn the crank by hand slowly. If it's smooth, you good, if not, you'll know it.

If you need a visual of the buckets/springs, check this out.
https://youtu.be/YJUskMSrw84?t=797

 

Evil,

Great advice... I will follow it exactly as you say.....I will not proceed until it is exactly right......would hate to turn the key and have a seized camshaft......ouch...

I believe that is what is going on. I have some buckets that are pushing just enough against cam lobes to prevent camshafts from dropping all the way in. I will work them in slowly as suggested. And then uniformly torque them all down in sequence. then turn ever so slightly back and forth with 24 mm wrench on camshaft.

Thank you and your advice is greatly appreciated in helping this first-timer along ( 1st time for camshaft seals at least ). I am very mechanically inclined. I just question my own ability as I go along even thou I follow the FSM.

Also, they state "Apply MP grease to the thrust portion of the intake and exhaust camshafts." What part is the thrust portion ?

Just an observation so far, the seal I replaced on the RH bank seemed just as pliable as the new I put in. Anyway, this was the original seal with 162k on it. Whole problem was a slow leak coming down on my alternator and Power Steering pump. Both were caked with grime and oil. So hopefully it was this seal. And not the head gasket.

Have no issue on other side - LH bank - but will change that seal as well. Will change Crank seal as well....

Will keep you advised.

 

I believe it means to apply assembly lube to the buckets and cam journals and lobes. This is to prevent wear on initial startup.

 

It would seem that motor oil would be the lube of choice then if one is lubing buckets and cam journals and lobes and bearing caps.....

The multi purpose grease is for a specific area of the camshaft I think - the thrust portion - wherever that is ......

Just my guess...

 

Here is what worked for me in regards to dropping in that last 5%-10% of intake camshaft on journals I2, I3, & I4......I put the 24mm wrench on the hexagonal part of the intake camshaft and worked the wrench back and forth a little bit at a time and watching the camshaft drop down in....then I finger tighten the bearing caps further ( I2 thru I5 )....both camshafts are sitting in 100% with all bearing caps finger tightened. The front bearing cap is not on at this point.

My last question is:

Since the front bearing cap takes the seal packing and sets up fairly quickly....do I install this front bearing cap and torque it down to spec. then proceed to all other bearing caps and tighten in order...?

Thanks in advance.

 

The thrust portion is the front and back areas around the first cam caps (the one just in front of the gears).

Put seal packing on, finger tighten 1st caps in place, then torque in pattern outward from center.

 

Man, I'm glad either the previous owner had my cam seals done, or the

$21 AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks, 8 Ounce Bottle

AT-205 I put in my oil beefed rejuvenated the seals.

Just seeing this makes me realize, it probably would've taken me a month to make time to finish it. I miss the days when I had more time.

Either way, good job OP, thanks for sharing. I'm sure this will help others in the future. Makes me nostalgic and a bit eager to finally make it to retirement.

 

Nice! Good tip.

Yep! The front bearing cap is the first thing you need to torque down. Once that's in place, you can go slow with the caps if you want, then add the seal packing to the corners and the redo the rear plugs if you want. I did since I was in there along with the spark plug tube seals and valve cover gaskets.

Hopefully that stuff continues to work for you. It's a common thing for these seals to leak on UZ engines, so next time you need to do a timing belt, add these and the crank seal. There's an AISIN kit on RA that contains all three. It only adds about two hours for a first timer doing a TB job, so honestly, it's not that bad.

 

I am assuming when you say "add seal packing to the corners" , you are referring to the outside corners of the front bearing cap where the valve cover will slip over when placed. I won't redo the half moon plugs in back as they looked nice and tight. Just clean the surface on top of them and apply some packing there as well when installing valve covers.

To be honest, I did not apply any MP grease to the thrust portions of the intake or exhaust camshafts as I was not sure which area it was even after you indicated " area in front of gears".....didnt want to get MP grease in areas where there are oil galleys and holes....

If I have to pull out cams again , I will, to apply this MP grease if absolutely necessary. Everything else is pretty lubed with motor oil. Hell, I was thrilled just to get the camshafts in....

Just an observation, old seal was still pretty pliable on the inside edge ...not much different than new one...other than 161k miles on it. Changed anyway.

I am just a retired 65 yr old who has the time and likes to wrench on his own vehicle. I am Ok with working at a snail's pace. I am not one to take to my car to a stealership.....they quoted labor at 20 hrs x 175 / hr = $3,500.....yeah right.....go pound sand..

Evil. Thank you for all of your answers to my questions. I respect your opinion as well as others here....it seems you have been down this road before a few times.

 

Exactly right. The corners behind the front cap before putting the valve covers back on.

I had a similar leak as you. Research pointed me to the cam seals. Was skeptical it was coming from the cams as the oil was all over the pan lip, and visibly wet in the weep hole at the very front under the crank. Once I tore into it, it was confirmed coming from the passenger cam. Also at 150k on a 16 yr old engine. Replaced the crank seal as well. Not a drop anywhere since, after 10k.

I didn't put any grease there either. Seems fine. I didn't wipe anything down inside the heads, so there was still lube already. Looked as clean as yours. I wouldn't sweat it.

Lucky dog! I can't wait to get into your shoes one day and be able to wrench anytime. Got more than a couple decades before that happens though!

Happy to help! Glad you're showing the dealer and members here it can be DIY'd. Toyota's are pretty easy to work on too, which is nice.

 

The original LH bank camshaft seal is not leaking nor is the original crank seal. Do you suggest replacing while torned down ? I believe I already know the answer.

But then there is the old saying " don't fix what is not broke ".

Something tells me to at least do the crank seal...easy enough...then button it back up and frickin turn the key. Deal with any leaks down the road whenever they may happen.

 

Honestly, doing the half moons is cheap insurance also and only takes a second. You'll have the FIPG out anyway to re-seal the front-most corners of the valve cover on reinstall. All it takes is a pair of channel locks with a quick tilt and lift to pop them up. Clear the existing FIPG on both surfaces, FIPG the valley of the moon, reinsert, and smooth the excess FIPG that comes up across the lip of the head. 5 minutes extra time each, and a little FIPG.

Hell, you may want to do the valve cover gaskets also if they haven't been done in the last 10yrs/100k miles.

 

Do them all. You're right there. If the cam seal on the LH side goes, you're doing all this again. Just replace it. You have the seal in hand. That spring on the inside losses tension over time, the rubber has shrunk. Seals fail, and yours are 16 years old most likely. And really, the second time is way easier.

 

Shifty & Evil,

Will do all seals.....even half moons....you guys are right.....I am already in there....just fricking do it....

RH bank was a slow go...learning process.......LH bank should go easier.....just need to disconnect gas lines and get them out of the way.....

Thanks guys....

 

Zip ties go a long way without having to disconnect lines.

I used them to get the power steering reservoir out of my way for passenger site head. Used same to make room on driver's side. This pic is from doing my valve covers:

https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1301#post-2698728

Those three steps (although I show the wrong ground strap bolt to remove up front) helped get me pretty ample clearance without disconnecting much of anything.

 

PS - glad to see your heads don't look as varnished as mine!

 

Shifty, you got a real nice toasty looking head and camshafts there....how many miles were on it when you opened her up...?

 

72k.

Primary owner for first 50k or so only used one specific jiffy-lube type place, every 6-7k, but only made short trips everywhere. So changing oil once every ... couple years? And cooking the shit out of it, heat up, cool down, heat up, cool down.

 

PS - I just rolled over 73k for what it's worth. Got the truck about 6k-7k miles and ... 4 years ago now?

After finding this, I'm obviously working to clean up that varnish. Likely a combo ofliquimoly, short-interval oil changes, and I'm still deciding on which dino oil to go with to help clean out, likely Rotella, and I may roll MMO in the mix, still thinking it through.

 

you could pull off valve covers, camshafts, heads, and run everything thru a parts cleaner.....while you are in there.....replace your camshafts and rebuild your heads......lol.....clean up your pistons & cylinder walls as well......

What do you think ?

 

Yeah, really don't have time at the moment. I cleaned up what I easily could before buttoning things up after doing the vc gaskets, just to get ahead of the game.

I've never seen this much varnish, this is what I'd expect if a PO never changed the oil. Oil pressure is good. All other things are good. This is a good opportunity to clean slow and natural without unbuttoning anything.