1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

Hahaha he’s ready to say goodbye to that life soon, I don’t see this happening

 

Might clash with my baby yoda

but I could get farther down the beach, lol

 

and he’s happily married, so I’m not sure what advantages it would bring.

 

https://youtu.be/Bq41qiQ8Nb4

I think there is potential for this for our FGT's, will have to scope it out next time I'm futzing with the bumper now that I've done one.

 

Look at fundamentally what they're telling you to do in the FSM page.
If you watch that foxbody video, where he measures the bore depth and rod length ... that specialty tool does essentially the same thing, but w/o measuring like dude in the video does.

The rod on the MC side of every booster I'd ever seen typically has a cone or dome nut on it, else it's rounded on the end, and you can normally use a standard wrench to adjust the tip inward/outward. You need the tip of that rod to be touching the edge of the MC so when you push the pedal it immediately engages the MC and starts pushing fluid.

But the really important thing - and I'll reference that foxbody video I posted again - You need to take the A/B/C (or was it M1/M2/M3) measurements he took so you can verify (A) if the pushrod is protruding enough - which I suspect it may not be - and (B) to know how far it needs to be sticking out to rest on (but not quite engage) the MC while the pedal is at rest.

 

PS - the good part is, you shouldn't need to drain or bleed brakes after. Just try to keep the MC level after detaching as to not tilt too far and potentially introduce air.

 

You would be disappointed if I said I'll probably just eye ball it?

I'm skeptical I can even reach the rod just by unscrewing the MC. Those hard brake lines don't move much and aren't that easy to work with. I'll mess with it tomorrow.

 

Do you already have Milwaukee M12 tools? If you do, pick up their 'rotary tool' if you want a decent battery powered option. Plus you could also snag their die grinders if ever needed (battery hogs tho).

 

Again, I'll just re-confess I've done ZERO brakework in our trucks.

But I think you'd be surprised how much you can move hard lines around. Sometimes it requires unfastening and hold-down/clamp or two here or there, but most vehicles I've worked on you can get the MC out at least 2-3" and sometimes as much as 6-8" as was the case with my '68 C10. I didn't need to drain anything to add a booster.

And no, I wouldn't be disappointed to eyeball. Work smarter, not harder. Use a pick or similar tool to measure the bore depth. Then use that as a reference to do maths. You may even be able to feel when the rod engages the end of the bore!

 

I do this a lot to get a close rough measurement

 

^ This. Sometimes you can come forward a few inches and then shift things to the right or left to get access too.

On one of my other vehicles I'd unbolt the proportioning valve from the fender and the master from the booster, slide the master off the booster and then lay everything over towards the engine. Then the booster was a straight shot on and off.

 

So I do appreciate the suggestions on a grinder. To date I haven't ever owned one because I do so little with metal. And tile I suppose. The dremel seems to fit my usage patterns better, I either cut with a reciprocating saw or fine-cut with a dremel. I do have that super light air saw once I get one or both of the arb twins operational which would be ideal for cutting thin metal and plastic. But the dremel, being small and multi-purpose, suits me well. I think I'm ready for another one given how much I've beaten on the first one. Just not sure which to get b/c there are so many to choose from.

I'll keep pondering the grinder, maybe someday. I just can't weld yet and mostly don't have good shop space. Someday I hope to buy a bunch of tools and have a big workspace but right now I need to keep space efficiently used.

 

I have a cheap grinder from HF because they cost < $20 even with a package of the grinding wheels. Don’t not use your next HF coupon. Get a grinder you’re not sure you need. Since I got it, I’ve torn all sorts of stuff up. I have a Dremmel too, and use it, but not as often as I use the grinder.

My point is, one time need pays for this tool. Get one.

 

I hear ya. Space is my constraint, money is not. Well, I'm not rich, but I'm 47 and no longer poor/broke.
I can barely walk through my garage. I rent a storage locker nearby. We use all 4000 sq feet of our lot every day, several times over. We touch all of the beds in musical rotation throughout the night as the boys move around and I hide/escape.

We're working on the space constraint problem but, dare I mention that home prices are a little north these days?

I know, I know, a grinder doesn't take up a massive amount of room. But I seriously need to purge more than add.

Anyway, good incentive to keep looking for a house that's just crappy enough

 

Gotcha. I’m also in a purge phase, and dang, there’s a lot.

If you’ve squirreled away enough to make the crazy mortgage rates work, I think you’ll have plenty of choice next year. I guess we’ll find out.

 

I am rather curious how things look with time. We (my wife and I) have a property we rather like and we aren't too far off but the sellers are sticklers for what I believe is a number they need to retire which we both think is more than the property is worth.

Me, personally, I'd like to move somewhere super rural but with young kids we have to think about schools and social stuff.

 

custom fishing pole holders.

 

My 8 year old was all the more reason to leave the city for something more rural. Now hes going from the Portland Public Brianwashers to a k-12 charter school that teaches actual lifeskills and how to be a decent human, not how to conform to the masses.

 

So I gotta double down on my earlier statement as I just learned that the boy gets to take hunters ed....at school. Feels good to have left Cali.

 

Just a heads up eBay has a 20% off coupon on their website right now.

 

Nice, I used to get those updates all the time on the 4runner forum.
This weekend only?

 

Well I can't find it now but I think it said it was through the 6th. I'm tempted to buy a winch but so poor after Spain.

Edit- I think the code is JULYSAVINGS and it's not working on my winch so I guess that makes the decision easier.

 

Went for it. Got the hammer hangers and new shackles too. Feel like a kid on Xmas eve lol.

Didn’t get the crossbar that’s an option with the hammer hangers. Like my spare where it is. Wonder if I can fab something up that’ll allow the spare to stay in its place?…

Overall seems like a fairly straight forward install. I may bug you if I get stuck somewhere(likely). Thanks

 

That’s really cool. Saw a few pics of your new place. Congrats. Friend of mine recently moved up to Jacksonville and loving it.

 

Welcome to the party.

I’ve done a fair bit of research on spare in the bed. Honestly don’t really want it under the bed I think, for serious truck stuff the spare should be accessible. And from talking to Eric @ archive, the whole kit is meant to work together. So I would recommend the crossmember.

A spare on a swingout works for most. I just don’t want that cause my spare is a fancy wheel.

I could maybe try to see if we could get a little group guy going for in bed spare holders. But they are mostly vertical. So I think Erik would be out.

I think Y strap can work and then just take it out if / when you want the bed space. For dump runs or large cargo or whatever.

 

Im in the process of getting a new rear bumper and thought about a swing out but I always end with the same thought… want the spare where it is. Weight in a perfect location and I really don’t understand the issue for “serious truck stuff”. I actually see it as another layer of protection.

Came across this thread https://www.tundras.com/threads/archive-garage-shock-relocation-kit.61942/ and the last post had a pic of a possible solution for those like me…

 

I carry 2 spares in the bed, one atop the other, secured with Y-straps. Works well.

 

Yeah, I think I might ideally have two spares as well, one behind each headrest. Takes up a chunk of space though.

 

Spare under the bed is great for road use. Where you have such low odds of needing it. And it just sits as insurance.

but oversized tire on fancy wheel and it’s not my first choice for several reasons. Don’t want it taken and don’t want to chain it up underneath. Don’t want it exposed. Do want it accessible.

for road use like hauling and dump runs, I figure quick removal and go no spare. Cell phone works ok.

for off the beaten path it seems ideal to have easy access and be ready to swap and go. Swingout puts it a bit too far aft for my taste. Front of the bed seems ideal.

RC w 8’ bed has enough space in front of each wheel well. Where you AC have dry storage and undersized seats.

Anyway, yeah, it’s a noodle game for sure. Lots of options.

I didn’t really feel comfortable with a faux beadlock under the bed TBH. Even if I didn’t have clearance concerns.