EXTRA wires on fusebox

I went and looked at mine. The wire marked in yellow is the one that runs to that terminal. The one connected to the battery runs inside the fuse box parallel to the fusible link.

 

Is this with the jumper back on? You said previously the dash had no power with the jumper removed correct?

 

No jumper.... 3 wires removed. When I said dash, I meant my GPS, monitor on center

 

I'm headed back shortly hopefully.... but I dontvthink I have your yellow marked wire

 

@mountainpete seems to be correct. Main power from the battery comes in the back under the fuse and goes out on the stud where your jumpers are connected.

The fuseable link is a group of several high current fuses all in one container. You have to basically remove the fuse box to get it out and replace the entire thing. Your jumper wires are bypassing one of the fuse links in the container.

The red line shows direction of flow. if you look closely you will see the battery power wire in the box running parallel to the fusible link. Replacing you fusible link should fix your problem. I was mistaken in my first post thinking your jumped wires were hooked to the input of the fuseible link, they are actually on the output which is bypassing part of it

 

It won't be marked yellow. I did it in the picture to identify which one led to the terminal that @mountainpete was talking about.

 

Reference this post for info on getting it out ect. I would order one soon and get it changed.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/sol...-got-much-worse-need-help.65246/#post-1703595

 

Yes I found both of mine...Thanks

 

Dangit, yup, that’s what I get for not looking closer. They’ve used the three wires to bypass the fusible link to the alternator cable post of the fuse box.

 

Ok all.local parts store don't have the part, an the local dealer isn't open.
Can I use a header Guage wire until tomorrow?

Hopefully they have one instock!in stock!!

THANKS EVERYBODY!!!

 

You guys are awesome for helping him out.

@HKTAT2S welcome to the forum.
What you saw here is what this forum is about...

Hope you get it fixed soon..

 

THANK YOU..... it has been MUCH APPREICATED!!!!

 

For the very short term, I’d put those same three wires back, probably with ring terminals, and keep your electrical loads to a minimum until the link can be replaced. Blower fan on lower speeds, headlights off if you can, no towing w/electric brakes…

The bad news is that it’s a bit of a project to replace that fusible link. I’m pretty sure that a member or two have a write up on here, I’ll try to find it.

 

Next hypothesis - why was this done?

When the battery was replaced they put one in with the posts reversed. It blew the main and they couldn’t easily get a replacement as it’s a dealer only item. So to get the truck running they bypassed it.

 

Just thinking this through. If the alternator is after the main, it powers the accessories when the truck runs. Not much current is actually going through those 3 wires.

It’s more of a concern when the truck isn’t running and accessories are being used. It’s actually a pretty clever bypass.

 

Would be my guess as well, but we may never know for sure. Very possible that the previous owner knew nothing about it, and this was the work of a so-called “professional”.

 

Well I contacted the previous owner, an he had no idea it eas like that. But he could be full of shit.

 

But I do appreicate all the help, So so soMICH!!

 

No worries Josh, we do that here.

That, and have a lot of fun, mainly. Welcome to the nuthouse. Er, I mean, Tundras.com.

 

This thread has a bit more info. Can’t find a step-by-step write-up. Different symptoms, but there are multiple fuses within that fusible link block.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/help-horn-wont-stop-blowing.50621/#post-1320233

 

Finally got to replace my fusible link block..... BAM!! Fixed

Thanks again for your quick responses an helpful tips n guides!!