2017 Tundra SR5 Sound system upgrade (proposed)

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Am I the only dumbass that can’t follow the wiring diagram provided on the first page of this thread? I’ve installed an amp and subs myself on every vehicle I’ve owned, that’s pretty straightforward. These harnesses are like 50 wires and I’m lost as a goose in a hailstorm

 

How do you like the cerwin? Considering that or the Kicker 10. Also where did you install it?

 

Hey man. Not to offend you in any way but it’s really easy. 8 wires coming in and 8 wires going out, cont positive, switched pos, grounds and thats it. Send me a specific question and hopefully I can help u.

 

Has anyone found a harness to add an amp for subs that will give you a signal for the new amp and will work in conjunction with the harness for these alpine power packs?

Maybe this one from *********:

https://*********.com/shop/toyota-t...nd-play-harness-2014-2020-non-jbl-equipped-2/

 

Hey.... I'm a complete newb with wiring and just installed the alpine this morning. Couple things to know that took me a second to realize. 1st, don't think of the harnesses as a 1 harness to 1 connection. You'll have wires crossing harnesses.

Make sure to have the attachment diagram that maps tundra to alpine, not just the embedded diagram in earliest pages.

2nd, the newest autoharnesshouse connections have different colors than OP. Mostly makes it easier and all the speaker connections match color to color.

Feel free to message me and I'll help wherever I can

 

Does anyone know what the plastic vent looking pieces are under the tundra front seats? I have a 2018 crewmax for reference. Are they needed?

I was wanting to install a small powered sub under the driver side.

 

Its the floor vents for the heating/ac

If you are putting an amp rack above it, just have feet on the back so air can move out the vent.

 

Thanks. Might screw up my plans to install a sub under the seat

 

you could always extend the vent out poast the sub box.

 

I'm worried it would rattle against that vent and drive me nuts.

 

Just cap it off then. As long as your dont live in The Frozen Shithole of Hoth then you should be fine.

 

Sorry about the late reply -- have not been on the forum in quite some time..
I like the cerwin sub, but it would be better with a remote adjustment as sometime I need to throttle the bass up or down. I slide it under the drivers seat from the back. It fits flush with the back of the seat

 

Kicker 10 here & couldn’t be happier. It’s pretty damn loud too. I threw mine back behind the rear 40% passenger seat. There’s a small metal knob there that holds the unit in perfectly. I wrapped that with some foam so it doesn’t rattle.

I feel the same as above tho, I need to run the gain adjustment dial up front for easy changes on the fly

 

I was debating between the Kicker and Cerwin. I ended up installing the Cerwin this morning. I need to get it dialed in but so far it's fine for $200. Mine came with a remote knob. I need to mount it but have the wires run and connected. Might try to mount in the cup holder like taco tunes does.

 

I realize this is a little old, but has anyone here used the 445U with a 2nd gen tundra non jbl and no amp. Are there any wiring harnesses out there to help avoid cutting up the factory harness? TIA

 

Mine will be here Friday, I'll let ya know. All the others I've found, including the ones suggested elsewhere here,, aren't truly plug and play and several aren't even the right plugs.

 

I read this whole thread, I have a non-JBL system with the amp under the seat, would like to keep the stock head unit, would this be a good option so that I could add a sub at a later date
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_113X8025/Kenwood-Excelon-X802-5.html?tp=70137
also, how hard to put in the dynamat in the doors?

 

I will give you my opinion based on what I have.
The amp is good but all depends on what you want. This is a 50x4 amp. Not much for me but maybe enough for many. Pick the speakers you like first. Have you listen to 50 RMS speakers? Is that enough for you?

 

I picked this amp because it also had a 500 watt sub output, 50 watts for the other speakers if fine for me, have not chosen any new speakers yet, but other threads have said that just replacing the stock amp improves quality greatly

 

Can confirm these work...

https://www.tundras.com/threads/easiest-way-to-add-a-sub.112202/

 

Correct. 500 should be enough. A good rule is that the sub should be twice as much as the speakers. If a 50 w speaker is enough for you than that amp should be fine. If you like to hear to music I would say that very soon you will be upgrading speakers then amp and then comes the rabbit hole.
The first thing I did was to replace the speakers and did the sound deadening. Double on each door and back. That really changed the sound. Sound deadening is time consuming and bruces and cuts and red knuckles and…. But its 110% difference.

 

what do you mean by double each door for sound deadening?

 

Correct. I did outer skin and inner skin. Plus foam on the backside of the door panel

 

Where’s you get that foam?

 

ebay
10MM Car Sound Absorber Noise Insulation Acoustic Dampening Foam Mat 100X100cm

 

I’ll take that help please! I got an 18’ non jbl… got the harness kit, a Lc7i LOC, a 4 channel amp to a sub amp…. I got the Crutchfield 9 wire connector that goes from the new harness to the 9 wire to the LOC…. But do I need that 9 wire if the LOC is right next to the harness?

I can do a lot of stuff but car audio apparently ain’t my thing esp when companies send vague information!

do you happen to have pictures of how the harness is wired??? Thanks!!!

 

You need the 10 and 12 connectors that will connect to the OEM connectors when you remove the OEM amp. From those 2 connectors you will have inputs, outputs plus positive, negative and remote.
I do not know what's the 9 pin connector you bought from Crutchy.

audio out to LCi to amp, correct?

 

I got the harness’s… 4438….

the 9 wire…..

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-bU6EgnT7XGM/p_007CSW9W20/Crutchfield-CSW9W-20.html?XVINQ=GLX&XVVer=1AP2&awcr=630504557434&awdv=m&awnw=g&awug=9012299&awkw=pla-2060003776512&awmt=&awat=pla&gclid=Cj0KCQiApKagBhC1ARIsAFc7Mc7SRRMuN0LB3QYiXiEBuR-XKPskROuHxhjVqNKjY8CRhKqNmcIbgw0aAv7gEALw_wcB

But…… being the LOC is right next to the harness I’m not sure I’ll need that?

The way crutch explained it was. Harness to 9 wire to LOC then the 2 amps by rca’s…. It’s what color wires link up with the 9…. Obv both harness’s & 9 wire don’t match up…. Hope that doesn’t sound confusing….

 

Thats what they call a “speed wire”. I bought like 5’ and just pulled the wires from it. I just used 6”. Maybe you will be using to extend the 10 n 12 pin connector wires. That wire is meant to take the audio signal (low wattage) to the amp at the other side of the car or similar plus it comes with a remote turn on.